[KensRedZed]

I used to be a machinist in another life. Hands-on metalwork falls from my fingers without thinking. We all gravitate to whatever is easiest for us.

I am looking into the idea of getting a 3D printer at some point. The market is changing so darn fast. Newer and better equipment is coming out all the time. It's hard to say exactly when is the best time to jump in? It's never to late to be late. The worst that can happen is the quality goes up, and the price goes down.

[dazee]

Had read this thread with interest some time ago and finally this week got around to trying my hand at it.  Still a ways to go to get to your level but it is oddly addictive once started to do this.

Learning all the time and currently on the 3rd version of this chassis that I will try out this weekend.
   

Still short a few of the tools mentioned in your post, but did already have the proxon x-y table and I believe pretty much the same bench drill you started with.  A way off getting a mill at this point, but did a little janky bit using the drill press 

Anyways off to the club tomorrow to try it out for a bit.  On my track it went pretty well with a controllable drifting Prius.

   

[KensRedZed]

Hello Dazee,

I'm happy to hear of your success! Congrats on making an aluminum chassis! It looks great!

I'm still doing well with these, and often win a race or two within my club.

I usually run a spacer under the motor and tilt it slightly so as to help provide more space between the rear of the chassis, and the track.

This chassis has a brass spacer under the back of the motor to bring the slim line motor shaft in line with the axle.
   

The chassis below is designed for a larger S-can motor. It has a brass spacer under the front of the motor to properly line the pinion up with the crown. The spacer is hidden by the epoxy, but it's there.
   

I try and keep the chassis height 2mm off the track front and back no matter the motor choice, or tire diameter.

Cheers,
Ken

[dazee]

Thank you for that, it is really good to know as I had been wondering about it as any offset on the gear was causing binding and limited the setup.  I had not thought for tilting the motor to solve this.  Learning every day.

As it is, I am quite limited in options for parts if I want anything other than Plafit parts I need to order and wait for shipping from Pendleslot to Japan.  It has been a challenge for the Prius as also has a very narrow body.

My chassis is much higher at the front than in the rear to accommodate the Plafit guide, which is rather chunky.  This put the back of the chassis just a hair above the track which was a concern... until I realized it is just aluminum and so it went into the vice to get a little bend put in 

Just curious, have you used this method at all for a sidewinder setup

[KensRedZed]

Hi Dazee,

Yes I've added a sidewinder pod to an aluminum front clip on several cars. Works perfect so long as you use a 1/32 "scratch building jig" to line up the axles.

Lotus 30.

   
   

Fly Ferrari. I took a pic of the jig too.

   
   
   
   
   

[KensRedZed]

I forgot to mention that the older NSR's are my SW pod of choice these days because they're easier to mount.