Fly A2502 Porsche 911 #18 Daytona 1966 - Fly 25th Anniversary Series. RRP £54.95. Available for Pre-order

This little Porsche is an important one. It was the first 911 to win a major international circuit race - the GT2.0 class at the 1966 Daytona 24 hours.

       

Porsche were taking the 1966 Daytona 24 hours very seriously - and Jack Ryan's 911 wasn't part of those plans. Daytona was to be the debut for the brand-new 906 2-litre sports prototype. Driven by Hans Herrmann and Herbert Linge, the 906 won its class - but the 911 was probably the bigger story, especially for the history books.

       

Ryan had bought the 911 (chassis 300-128) just a few months before. The car was previously a demonstrator at Brumos Porsche - and had been one of the first pair of 911s to arrive in the US back in December 1964. It had clocked over 30,000 miles in the next eleven months. Ryan - a VW dealer in Atlanta - teamed up with Lin Coleman and Bill Bencker to drive the car at Daytona. Ryan added a custom-built exhaust, a basic roll bar and extra headlights - and saved some weight by ditching the radio and the passenger seat. Otherwise the Porsche was virtually stock, right down to the brakes.

Porsche didn't want Ryan's private 911 to race. Team manager Huschke von Hanstein tried to persuade him to withdraw, but - legend has it - Ryan replied, “It’s my car now and I’m entering it.” Ryan had legally acquired the car; the 911 had been built in accordance with the rules and accepted by the organisers. Starting thirty-ninth in a field of 59, the little 130bhp Porsche 911 worked its way up the field to lead the 2-litre GT class. Now von Hanstein took interest, even offering Ryan assistance from the factory team.

The number 18 didn’t need any assistance. The 911 was running like a charm. The team refuelled regularly, checked the oil level, and changed drivers and tires as necessary. Ryan, Coleman and Bencker went on to finish sixteenth overall, completing 548 laps on the 3.81-mile track, and winning their class. The only other production-based car to come in ahead of them was a Roger Penske-entered L-88 Corvette with a 7-litre V8 and 540 horsepower. Von Hanstein was delighted - the Porsche 906 had also scored a class win and taken sixth overall behind four Ford GT40s and the Ferrari 365 P2.

   

After multiple changes of ownership, the car was donated in 2013 to the Revs Institute in Naples, Florida. This historic 911 is now part of the Miles Collier Collections, alongside many other significant Porsche sports cars. Amazingly, the car remains almost as it was in 1966 - with the original engine, transmission and the custom exhaust. The passenger seat and radio have been re-fitted.

   

The Fly 25th Anniversary Series model will undoubtedly be in demand with Fly and Porsche fans. The car is available for pre-order at Pendle Slot Racing and other Fly retailers.

Yesterday the brakes stopped working on one lane of my track. Being a bit slow on the uptake I didn't bother to try the other lane but immediately suspected a broken wire in the controller so took it apart to check. All was well but I still thought it might be the culprit so tried my Scorpius controller instead - not only no brakes but the car was permanently under full power as well!

At this point I did have the sense to try the second lane and all was well there so the problem was obviously in one half. Both lanes are separately wired so next I tried switching the power supplies in case one had a fault. Nope, not the cause.

Out with the multimeter and 20 minutes checking the various bits of wiring. No fault found. I was beginning to think that the 2 amp 3 pin socket might be faulty so removed it to check but the multimeter found no continuity fault. After a bit of head scratching and a modicum of swearing I thought I might try swapping the socket over from the 2nd lane. Voila! All was fixed so it was the socket after all!

I then proceeded to dismantle the faulty one, springs and bits of metal flew everywhere including one small piece of brass. This turned out to be part of the earth connection which had broken off and was causing the problem. The multimeter failed to flag it up as the two brake wires were connected to each other but not making contact with the relevant pin in the plug.

Easy fix after all - change the socket.

It was at this point I remembered that the exact same thing had happened a year ago but I had totally forgotten about it. Doh! The care home beckons. 

Apart from Pendles are there any other UK stockists of Revoslot cars? Trawled the usual suspects but no joy.

Nothing against Pendles but they are out of stock of a car I am interested in.

AFX have just released four new individual cars in North America...

       

       

AFX 2204 Ford GT Heritage #98
AFX 22038 1970 Corvette LT1 Red Metallic
AFX 22043 1970 Chevelle 454 - Red
AFX 22050 1971 Chevelle 454 - Yellow

The official recommended retail price for these cars is $40.99 and they should be with retailers very soon.

Hi guys!  I’ve been slot racing on and off for over sixty years.  I’ve built many tracks and cars, formed clubs in the UK, Italy, and now France, raced in those countries, in the Czech Republic and even New Zealand.  I’m a past chairman of ECRA (now BSCRA) and past president of Planet32, the now defunct international association for 1/32 hard body slot racing.  I look forward to sharing experiences and promoting this fabulous sport.

This is the only Swapmeet to take place this year in the North. All our usual table holders will be attending including Pendle, Roger Barker, Phil Smith, Rob Learmouth, Slot Track Scenics and many more.

Entry and tables are free as usual to NSCC members. Normal entry £1. Children free.

A limited edition event car will be available to paid up members of the NSCC on a first come first served basis, .

Location :
Rothwell Sports Centre
Wakefield Road
Oulton
Leeds LS26 8EL

Any recommendations for a replacement inline (and sidewinder) motor for the Slot.it V12 and Scalextric S-can?

A Shark Evo NSR-3004?

Club rules for Saloons. Any 20k motor. The stock Scalextric motors are getting whooped but the 21k Slot.it is illegal.

The cars would be running on these Scalextric Sport tracks at 11v:

   

Lap length 98'. Main straight 23.5'.

   

Lap length 89'. Main straight 31.5'.

I have 4 RS cars, and I have found a way of tuning them that I like, that's not to say its the best way, but its what works for me.

The noise of the floating metal chassis, I don't find a problem, there are a few tutorials on the internet dealing with that if it bothers you.
To me that is the way its designed to work, and it works well.

First step is disassemble everything and check all mating surfaces are free from burrs or imperfections in the coating. 
On my 4 cars, all have been fine which speaks well for the QC in my experience, but if you find any imperfections carefully file them flat (or in the case of burrs at the edge of holes use a suitable cone dremel piece or larger shallow angle drill bit by hand to clean up.

Reassemble the axle stands first, leaving the screws finger tight  then test the axle stands opposite each other are in alignment, this tip I picked up from, I believe, one of Tamar's posts. You will need a dead straight piece of 6mm rod around 50mm long for this.
With the bearings from the axle stands removed (in most cases these come out easily) check the rod can freely slide between the posts then tighten fully and recheck.

Once that is set, reinstall the bearings, if they are not a tight fit, you can use a thin smear of non permanent glue or thread-lock on the inner wall of the axle post to fix in, being careful not to get any on the shoulder or moving parts of the bearing !

I then put a drop of thin oil with a needle dropper on the bearing face, and inside where the axle will go. then install the rear axle, gear and opposite side wheel as you would normally, leaving just a whisker of lateral play.
I like my gear to be as inboard as possible, so I use the smallest spacer I can between the gear and bearing. 
I used NSR guide spacers as these are readily available and come in 0.12mm upwards thickness. There may be specific 3mm axle spacers available for this but working from my 1/32 specific spares supply these fitted and were at hand ;)

If you want to change the pinion to alter gearing, I use the Slot.it 6.5mm anglewinder gears, note that the stock gear fits onto the motor shaft a little under flush so replicate this. 
Next, I fit the motor mounting loosely on the chassis too allow it to slide, and the motor to this tightly, remembering to include the metal plate supplied in between the motor and pod.
Then I use a rizla paper between the gear and pinion, slide the motor up and tighten the screws. Remove the rizla paper and check for a good mesh, tweak if needed.
Once I am happy with the mesh, I usually run for 30 secs in each direction dry, then lube the gears with your preferred gear lube.

Refit the front axle and wheels/spacers oiling as above.
Either refit the guide, or the supplied deeper guide, with spring depending on your track. 
I replace the braid with NSR 0.2mm but this is personal preference.
For copper tape (or plastic track where the rails are fractionally above the track surface) I leave about 1mm of upward travel in the guide, for braided track or others where the rails are below the surface, adjust to suit.

Check all tyres are fully seated on the rims, you can glue and true if desired but for home use on my copper tape routed wood track I have not found this necessary with stock tyres.

Because I like a bit more float than standard, I use the alternative RS chassis T-nuts and screws.
I light smearing of light grease or oil on the T part of the nut, or hole it goes through may help, but isn't strictly required.
Usually RS use spacers to sit the wheels flush with the arches, but if you want more float like me, you may need to get smaller spacers, or trim the supplied ones down for the rear to allow clearance.
Because the way the chassis is designed the fronts move with the body so can stay flush to the arches.

Finally, if you want to adjust the height of the body as it sits in relation to the wheels, either for more float clearance, or aesthetic purposes, I use neoprene washers under the rubber boots on the body posts where required. 

I find the best way is by removing the rubber "boot" and sliding it over my NSR 0.9mm grub screw tool with the cup side to the tip, then slide the neoprene washer past the hex tip onto the shaft and use the tip to guide into the body post hole. Then slide the "boot" all the way over the post dragging the neoprene washer with it.
This ensures the washer sits in the right place and the nature of the rubber and neoprene ensures they will stay put while you put the screw in and tighten to just past finger tight.
Some may want the body screws a little loose to enable slipping the body off without unscrewing, others a neoprene washer between the screw head and chassis for further damping, but I find it fine for me as I described.

Hope this helps those new to the RevoSlot cars, and anyone with further suggestions or tips, feel free to add your thoughts.

this is what i had as a kid and i'm starting again after many years. i'd like to have two of my favorite
2 lane courses based on real F1 courses joined by my personal build. when i wanted to race one of the F1 courses exclusively just exchange
a few tracks to separate the F! course. here is the rub. i'd like the courses to feel like they were designed by aurora in the mid 60's-70's. imho back then 
9 inch curves here used mostly with 12 inch after. the superinternational set is loaded with 6 inch curves. 
or maybe have 2 popular courses back in the day that don't have to be F1. 
anyone have track designs from that time?  maybe get the afx giant track with all the 9 inch curves would be better. 
with either one buy a track pack or two.

The Lotus 98T was aF1 car designed by Gerard Ducarouge and Martin Ogilvie and built by Team Lotus for use in the 1986 F1 Championship. Development of the previous year's  97 T, the car was raced by Brazilian Ayrton Senna, in his second year with the team, and Scottish newcomerJohnny Dumfries.

It is claimed that the Renault EF15B in its pinnacle increment was claimed to produce in excess of 1000 HP at unrestricted boost pressure, thus making it one of the most powerful engines ever used in Formula 1 history.

This was, however, during qualifying, where teams used unrestricted boost pressures for maximum power output, and for very quick lap times. These unrestricted engines were very unreliable, and would only last about a couple of clean laps. Therefore, the 98T produced around 900 HP in race trim. The 98T was also the final Lotus powered by a Renault engine, as Lotus switched to Honda for the following year/season.

         


Other notable innovations of the 98T included a two-stage ride height adjustment, water injection through the intercoolers, an early form of barge board (also present on the 97T), and an advanced (for the time) fuel consumption microcomputer. 



The model is based on the Scalextric Lotus 98T. Which in truth is very toylike.


             


An incredible amount of work has been done on the Front suspension, brake duct coolers, driver, roll bars, rear view mirrors, driver, rear wing and decalling.
Another car from my friend in Chech Rep.