[964rh]

Hi all

After the Frankencleanertruck semi build, I’ve now ordered another to have a crack at

I’ve gone for the MRRC 911 RS kit below

   

I made a right mess of the paint job on the Franken, so does anyone have any tips on how I can get a showroom finish on this?

Also, does anyone know what chassis would be best to mount it on

Thanks

Rob

[DPJ]

Nice kit you have there! About the only tip I can provide is - in order to get a showroom finish you must have extremely clean air wherever it is you're painting. No dust in the air makes for a very clean job.

I just started airbrushing... I'm still trying to figure out how many days Alclad2 Klear Kote needs to fully cure!

[Nonfractal]

Rob, 
if you are looking to  make a  competitive track car you have 2 main options for a chassis. 

1. The modern way is a made to measure 3d chassis 
https://www.shapeways.com/product/KG2PZ4...911-inline
These can sometimes be sourced in Europe which lowers the postage cost

2. The old school way is an adaptable chassis like the slot.it HRS2. 
http://mre.co.uk/catalogue/slot-it-hrs2-...06495.html
Using hrs2 is a bit more work because the body is not typically mounted by the body posts. 
The link above is the complete hrs2 kit but you can buy just the chassis and use your own running gear.
My entry to this year's winter rally proxy was HRS2 based.

The old-old school way is to use a brass chassis. 
I'm afraid I don't have any experience on brass chassis construction. 

Alan

[autoavia]

You could probably use a Penelope Pitlane or RS Slot Racing brass chassis 

A PCS chassis will fit but I am not a fan of the cjhassis although you might be quite happy with it.

Amato Slot Car Design, who are in the Traders thread, make an adjustable 3D chassis which could probably be made to fit 

There is a 3d chassis specifically for the car in the link below but it isn't cheap
https://www.shapeways.com/product/KG2PZ4...arketplace

There are probably other alternative 3d printed adjustable chassis as well.

[Scuderia_Turini]

Hello 964RH,

Reference the paint finish. The secret seems to be to use patience. Prepare the body carefully and remove all greasy spots using something like washing-up liquid. Spray very thin coats (just a light dusting, don't try to get it all covered in the first spray) and wait for each to dry properly and clean again before applying the next.

Leo

[964rh]

Thanks for the really helpful replies everyone.

I’ll probably go for the shapeways chassis, cost isn’t that bad to the uk.

Re paint tips - patience isn’t my greatest strength (hence the shite paint job on the previous attempt) but I’ll give it a go on this nine as I’d like it to be as good as possible.

Should I sand between each coat with wet/dry or after all coats have been applied?

Cheers


Rob

[DPJ]

...Should I sand between each coat with wet/dry or after all coats have been applied?

Cheers


Rob

If you want it to be the Best it can be, yes. 5000 to 12000 should do. But it drastically increases the finish time.

[JasonB]

My method for painting is...

1. Wash in warm soapy water to get rid of any mold release agent
   
2. Sand with a fine sandpaper (at least 200 +) to provide a key for the primer and to remove any small defects.
   
3. Brush off with a dry paint brush to remove dust, and wipe over with an alcohol doused cloth to remove fingerprints
   
4. Find a way to hold the body, and twizzle it round, without touching it. I use a stick with a lump of blu tack on each end, one to attach to the inside of the roof, and the other to stick onto the workbench when it's finished.
   
5. I use car spray cans, so I follow the instructions and make sure it's at room temperature, and shake for 30 seconds.
   
6. I then spray onto a clean white sheet of paper to make sure the nozzle provides a fine mist without any blobs
   
7. When spraying the body, I start with the primer, spray from about 30cm, and spray past the ends of the car before returning, moving at a fairly sprightly pace
   
8. I twizzle the stick about 30 degrees with each pass, and also angle it up and down as I go to make sure I'm getting the undersides of window frames, and the top of the roof. 
   
9. The paint should look almost dry within a second or two, if not I know I've been laying it on too heavy
   
10. Once I've done the whole car, I stick it down to the work surface, and leave it for half an hour, covered with a box to prevent any dust landing on the paint.
    
11. Then I repeat the process, paying particular attention to any areas I've missed, or where the paint hasn't completely covered
    
12. After a day or two drying, perhaps longer if the temperatue is cool, I sand it with really, really fine sandpaper (400+), or really fine wire wool. I'm not actually trying to sand the paint here, I'm trying to de-nib it, ie remove the inevitable specks of dust, and imperfections
    
13. Then it's back to step 3, for the top coats. The main difference I've found with the top coat is that being gloss, it's more difficult to tell whether the paint is drying, and because of this I'd usually go for 3 or 4 light coats to avoid getting any runs.
    

That's my method anyway, I'm not claiming it's the best, but it works for me.

[Gpa113]

Hi,

Just a couple of other tips for painting,  both very simple, but effective. 

I always pre heat my bodies in a spray booth.  Simply a cardboard box with a light inside. About 20 minutes,  then spray.  If you can source a big enough box  you can spray your body inside, saves a lot of messy overspray. 

I only use spray cans, but I do use a Can Gun spray can tool, about £6.00 from Halfords, or online.
I find this makes a huge difference to the way you can use a spray can.  It simply clips onto which ever can you choose to use, and enables you to spray evenly, as the trigger mechanism gives a much more precise action. 
I always spray in a sweeping motion, and go past the body both to the left and right,  as this gives better coverage,  and I stop spraying when clear of the body, never directly over it. 

With the Can Gun spray can tool, or similar,  my results were so much better.....

Practice, will hopefully,  make this all much easier.  Good luck

[DPJ]

I agree the Comfort Grip attached to a rattle can gives much better control of the medium. I bought one just because I didn't want my hands to get all painted while spraying track.