[Kevan]

   

[Kevan]

The other thing I'd change is the gap between the bottom of the plate and the top of the guide is possibly going to make the guide wobbly side to side, I like very little horizontal play on a guide post.

If that was my car I'd either solder another flat brass plate (with a hole) underneath...or move the whole thing down at 45° so the guide is right up to the plate when the front tyres are sitting on the track.

[chrisguyw]

Hello Tibbs,.....you may want to consider soldering the guide tongue on a horizontal plane with the chassis main rails, this will result on the guide being on a level plane (much better than nose down),  and this will also eliminate the need for you to bend the guide tongue (finnicky). As well soldering the guide tongue to the chassis main rails will lower the gg. of the chassis (never a bad thing).

You should also consider buying some guide spacers (Pendle has a wide variety).....these spacers will allow you to alter the front end ride height (for different tracks....raised rails or recessed braid), without having to reposition your guide tongue or front axle tube. They also are used to take the verticlal "slop" out of the guide.

Lastly, screw in guides in conjunction with guide spacers allow for a more precise fitting guide, one without slop in any direction...........you can either buy screw in guides or,.......cut the "fingers" off of you existing guide, drill a small hole in the guide post, and use a small screw and a washer to secure the guide.

I am attaching a few chassis shots that may give you a few ideas.

Cheers
Chris Walker

The guide tongue is soldered to a cross piece (on top) at the front of the chassis,..the guide tongue is "flat" with the chassis. Note the guide spacers between the guide and the guide tongue, and the screw in guide.

[Tibbs]

The other thing I'd change is the gap between the bottom of the plate and the top of the guide is possibly going to make the guide wobbly side to side, I like very little horizontal play on a guide post.

If that was my car I'd either solder another flat brass plate (with a hole) underneath...or move the whole thing down at 45° so the guide is right up to the plate when the front tyres are sitting on the track.

Thanks Kev, I see what you mean. I think I might add a plate under as I don't want to drastically change the guide tongue work above.
This is very helpful mate.

[Tibbs]

Hello Tibbs,.....you may want to consider soldering the guide tongue on a horizontal plane with the chassis main rails, this will result on the guide being on a level plane (much better than nose down),  and this will also eliminate the need for you to bend the guide tongue (finnicky). As well soldering the guide tongue to the chassis main rails will lower the gg. of the chassis (never a bad thing).

You should also consider buying some guide spacers (Pendle has a wide variety).....these spacers will allow you to alter the front end ride height (for different tracks....raised rails or recessed braid), without having to reposition your guide tongue or front axle tube. They also are used to take the verticlal "slop" out of the guide.

Lastly, screw in guides in conjunction with guide spacers allow for a more precise fitting guide, one without slop in any direction...........you can either buy screw in guides or,.......cut the "fingers" off of you existing guide, drill a small hole in the guide post, and use a small screw and a washer to secure the guide.

I am attaching a few chassis shots that may give you a few ideas.

Cheers
Chris Walker

The guide tongue is soldered to a cross piece (on top) at the front of the chassis,..the guide tongue is "flat" with the chassis. Note the guide spacers between the guide and the guide tongue, and the screw in guide.













Gday Chris, this is wonderful help mate. I'm printing this advice off and keeping it in my slot car note book I use. Looking at your pics I completely see what both you and Kev are saying.
As you know this is my very first crack at a scratch build and this information is gold dust to me. 
Do you mind if I save these photo's for reference on my laptop?
I've got two 50's 60's midget shells I will be scratch building the chassis' and I will use your information re the tongues on those.
I can't bring myself to remove this tongue as it's my first and I think will be a great learning curve to keep it and use your experienced method on the next ones.
I can see that how it won't be as finnicky like you say.

I'd love to take this on to a big wooden track at a club but I don't know if the local one to me allows it, saying that I'm not sure if my local is back up and running yet as they had a roof leak when I was hoping to go for the first time last year.

I can only aspire to this level of building, these chassis are beautiful.

Question re the guide with the screw and washer, how does it swivel with it screwed like that? is it only screwed lightly?

Cheers
Tony 

 

[chrisguyw]

Do you mind if I save these photo's for reference on my laptop?

I can't bring myself to remove this tongue as it's my first and I think will be a great learning curve to keep it and use your experienced method on the next ones.

Question re the guide with the screw and washer, how does it swivel with it screwed like that? is it only screwed lightly?

Cheers
Tony 

 

Hello Tony,...........Go ahead and save these pics.,...hopefully they will be of help on your next builds'.

Rather than adding a plate to the bottom of your existing guide tongue,...it would be better idea to buy/use some guide spacers (get a pkg. each of the the two thinnest ones from Pendle). The spacers will allow you to alter the front ride height according to the tracks (proud steel rails, copper tape, or recessed braid) you will be running on. Additionally, the spacers will allow you to alter the front ride height should you use various thickness pick up braid, or, run different diameter front tyres. As well, guides from various manufacturers have varying thickness base plates, so the spacers allow for some fine tuning.
(Most ,if not all good racers use guide spacers to fine tune the front ride height)

As far as the screw in guides,.....the screws are a snug fit in the guide post holes, and will not come loose/fall out, so you tighten the screw enough to eliminate any vertical travel in the guide, yet loose enough to allow free rotation left to right.
 You can buy screw in guides from many manufacturers (any from Slot-it, NSR, Scaleauto are all perfectly good), and you can also modify your press in guide.............cut the two "arms" off of you press in guide so that you have a "solid" guide post,.....drill a small hole, and use a washer/screw to attach.

Cheers
Chris Walker

These are the NSR guide spacers (Pendle has these).......a pkg. of the .12mm and a pkg. of the .25mm spacers will allow you to adjust several cars. Most manufacturers make guide spacers, and they all work well...I chose to show the NSR versions as Pendle had pics. on their site.

[Tibbs]

Do you mind if I save these photo's for reference on my laptop?

I can't bring myself to remove this tongue as it's my first and I think will be a great learning curve to keep it and use your experienced method on the next ones.

Question re the guide with the screw and washer, how does it swivel with it screwed like that? is it only screwed lightly?

Cheers
Tony 

 

Hello Tony,...........Go ahead and save these pics.,...hopefully they will be of help on your next builds'.

Rather than adding a plate to the bottom of your existing guide tongue,...it would be better idea to buy/use some guide spacers (get a pkg. each of the the two thinnest ones from Pendle). The spacers will allow you to alter the front ride height according to the tracks (proud steel rails, copper tape, or recessed braid) you will be running on. Additionally, the spacers will allow you to alter the front ride height should you use various thickness pick up braid, or, run different diameter front tyres. As well, guides from various manufacturers have varying thickness base plates, so the spacers allow for some fine tuning.
(Most ,if not all good racers use guide spacers to fine tune the front ride height)

As far as the screw in guides,.....the screws are a snug fit in the guide post holes, and will not come loose/fall out, so you tighten the screw enough to eliminate any vertical travel in the guide, yet loose enough to allow free rotation left to right.
 You can buy screw in guides from many manufacturers (any from Slot-it, NSR, Scaleauto are all perfectly good), and you can also modify your press in guide.............cut the two "arms" off of you press in guide so that you have a "solid" guide post,.....drill a small hole, and use a washer/screw to attach.

Cheers
Chris Walker

These are the NSR guide spacers (Pendle has these).......a pkg. of the .12mm and a pkg. of the .25mm spacers will allow you to adjust several cars. Most manufacturers make guide spacers, and they all work well...I chose to show the NSR versions as Pendle had pics. on their site.

Hi Chris,
You won't believe it but I brought a hand full of random guides at Gaydon recently and I found a slot.it one as you recommended.
I've just changed it and it fits great and sits nicely, I will buy those spacers as I understand now what you mean and how they will help.
   
   
Just out of interest, the other guide I have came in a pack and they all have the little spring, I think they are Ninco. What is the purpose of the spring?
Cheers

[chrisguyw]

Hi Chris,.........

Just out of interest, the other guide I have came in a pack and they all have the little spring, I think they are Ninco. What is the purpose of the spring?
Cheers

Hi Tony, Without a pic. I can't confirm that your guides (with springs) are Ninco,...but, they very well may be as Nico did make some spring guides.

The springs allow a bit of suspension to the guide with the intent of "softening" the bumps found at the joints of most plastic track. If the guide height is set correctly, there is no need for the springs, and, you will rarely find any club racers using them.....into the bin they go !!

Cheers
Chris Walker

[Tibbs]

Hi Chris,.........

Just out of interest, the other guide I have came in a pack and they all have the little spring, I think they are Ninco. What is the purpose of the spring?
Cheers

Hi Tony, Without a pic. I can't confirm that your guides (with springs) are Ninco,...but, they very well may be as Nico did make some spring guides.

The springs allow a bit of suspension to the guide with the intent of "softening" the bumps found at the joints of most plastic track. If the guide height is set correctly, there is no need for the springs, and, you will rarely find any club racers using them.....into the bin they go !!

Cheers
Chris Walker

Just found the box, they are Ninco.
I might convert them to screw ones 

[Scuderia_Turini]

Hello Tibbs,
The sprung guides are appreciated by rally enthusiasts where they help absorb any (deliberate) bumps in the track. I don't mean "Raid" type events where a drop-arm is essential, just a normal rally special stage.
If you really do not want the Ninco guides, I will happily buy them from you.

Leo