Here we go, perhaps a temporary poster as I am finding trouble finding something that captures the theme

   

So having listened and learned from the forthcoming Rally Proxy format, I have decided upon the plan below.
   

I am sticking with the same basic form of rules and car classes as for the Rally, except the Brass & Wire constructed chassis cars will be included as Class B cars.
I have made some concessions to Class A cars which will be allowed "upgrades" to running parts (Spares) and Interiors but not basic body/chassis modifications, and before I am asked, yes Revoslot models will be allowed in Class C as Procars. The motor limit for Class A cars generally 18,000 rpm at 12 volts (ie standard motors) but there are some aftermarket  alternatives with slightly higher rating and different ruling on eligible Ninco motors & orientation. Class B & C cars will have a maximum limit of 23,000 rpm at 12 volts. See Eligible motor list for Class A & BC cars.

The host tracks I hope to use will be both wood and plastic, I am hoping to have 6 club Rounds and 4 home based Rounds depending on the good will of our hosts.

The Technical Rules

List of Eligible Slot Motors Permitted


Car lists
They may not be absolutely complete, so if you think some car is missing and only if you want to enter it, I will be pleased to check it out on the relevant website. So these lists are for most entrants convenience. If you have no intention of entering a car not listed please don't ask me to check it out.

Event 1 Tourist

Event 2 Grand

Event 3 Super

Event 4 Modern


Race Format -The Proxy series will be run Championship style
Hosts will measure Race time over set number of Laps (depending on circuit length) This will be the Primary position determining measurement.
Fastest Lap times will also be recorded for each car as the Secondary Position determining measurement and will be used to determine final placings in the event of a tie between 2 or more cars.

Points awarded for the placings at the end of each Round for both Event and Car Class Placings
Event & Car Class Placing's (ie 40pts available for a 1st in both Event & Class) per Round for Best Team Award

1st = 20 pts
2nd = 15 pts
3rd = 11 pts
4th = 8 pts
5th = 6 pts
6th = 5 pts
7th = 4pts
8th = 3pts
9th = 2pts
10th & thereafter = 1pt

Awards
Event winners and runners up (2nd & 3rd)
Car Class winners (1st only)
Best Team ( one or two cars)

Entry Application Form
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1yw7SwQm...ested=true

Proxy Round schedule
   

Entry pricing
One car £10 two cars £15.
Only 2 car entries qualify for a Best Team Award.

DISCLAIMER
The administrator and associated hosts do not accept any responsibility for the damage or loss of the cars during the running of the Rounds or during transportation. You enter your cars at your own personal risk, and there is no insurance cover included in the entry fee to cover such damage or losses as a result of  the above.

Nico

   

I love my Policar track and it gets used for an hour or so most days. Little wonder then that in the 18-20 months since I got it I've worn out two controllers, literally worn through the internal wire loops.

Now, this is not a complaint: these things are basic, cheap to make set controllers that come with the set and I don't expect them to withstand such prolonged use.  

Last time I replaced one it cost me £7.50.  Now the price is £11.  

Before I hit "buy now" I wondered if anyone has any suggestions for an alternative?

Hopefully starting soon, as the rest of what I need is allegedly coming next week.
This will be slow progress, and despite my scenic shortcomings, I am going to try my best to do it justice as a model railway.

As Hornby have only recently released the TT 1:120 range, there is still a lot of stuff available only as pre-order. Although Europe and Americans have had this scale available for some time.

I started with the plan I had made for my fathers 00 layout (3660mm x 1220mm), and tweaked it to my needs, then tweaked it more and fiddled, and around 14 or so revisions later, I think I have settled on my plan !

I will be going digital, and the layout is planned so I can run 2 trains around the outside loops and be shunting with a third in the inner section
This is on a 2440mm x 940mm board.

   

Baseboard done and the first parts arrived, several more since the pic, and some hopefully next week will mean I can soon start.

   

Unfortunately Hornby did not see fit to release flexi-track in the first couple of waves, so I have sourced some Tillig flexi-track which is pretty darn close to Hornby, so I should be able to make it work.

I was given a "Smart Speaker" as a festive present (Dec 2022) and despite having shunned such tech previously I thought I would give it a chance to shine. I listen to "radio" streams a lot so asked the Google Assistant to play a favourite station. Response was along the lines of "I can't play that right now but you could ask me to play it on a different device". Moving on I asked it to play some Harpsichord music. Response was something like "Here is a harpsichord playlist from Deezer". I listened to three tracks of non harpsichord tunes and then switched it off. After a couple of weeks of "Sorry I don't understand", I decided that I should change the assistant to a male type so as to avoid becoming a misogynist. Having realised that in fact the system may be smart but its not intelligent, I asked it to define "smart". The response was that smart most commonly relates to a person who is clean, tidy and well dressed. Its certainly clean and well dressed but I wouldn't say that having the operational indicators on the front and power switch and battery level (its a portable unit) on the back is tidy.
The unit is now mostly switched off, in the hope that someday a future update might make it intelligent.

Nico

I've started my next build, this is a Scaleauto white kit of the Audi R8 GT3.
   
This kit looks to me to be of great quality and I have put the main body on to have a quick test run and the 20k motor is awesome and it sticks to the track brilliantly.
I drew up the decals and had C&C print them last year.
I only own one other GT3 car which is a Scalextric Aston Martin I brought from Havant swap meet, I've only changed the tyres on it and there's still no comparison to this Scaleauto. To me Scaleauto is well worth the money compared to the Scalextric, just my novice opinion.
To start off I have taken all the parts and sanded and removed flash where needed.
The side panel's and air intakes need to be glued to the main body, these need a little bit of sanding to flush fit but it's worth the effort.(I can't do it half hearted)
   
The exhaust system that comes with the kit is a bit confusing, there's a mesh/wire panel that has two exhausts attached to it but there is a seperate exhaust system that needs fitting on the inside of the body which then comes out the back.
Looking at pics of the car there is no mesh but I've decided I want to use the mesh but not the two exhasuts attached to it.
I've used the other one but dremeled it out more and also dremeled the tip of it as the original has a lip/crease line,  I've also dremeled inside it to fit two small red LED's to make it look like flames 
   
   
   
I've brought a Detail Up Parts Series Rear Spoiler, it is for a 1/24 scale model but it has better supports than the plastic ones that come with the kit.
With the kit, the supports have not been made so they fit from back to front, not sure why but all the models I've seen of this is the same yet on the race cars they are like what I'm doing.
The 1/24 scale strut supports work better and I think are more to scale, I'm useing the kit spoiler though as the 1/24 is way too big obviously.
Heres a pic of the 1/24 kit.
   
You get two different spoilers with the model(not being a rivet counter just having fun making it right)you can see in this pic the spoiler, I've curved the back of it and also the little cuts on the little wings.
   
Next step, I'm going to primer all these parts mat black except the exhaust which will be a gun metal or dark ali colour.
It's not a complete scratch build but there's still a lot of work, hope you enjoy the posts as much as i will making it.
Cheers
Tony

ps. just seen Carrera have released images of their new cars this year and they are doing a Rossi R8, look forward to comparing my effort to a factory one.

Hi all

Over the past three odd years, my knowledge and skill base has increased 10 fold from replacing tyres to stripping, painting, building and modding several cars but..........

Why am I struggling to put a wire in an eyelet, fit it in the guide and not have it fall out?

I've tried folding/not folding the wire over the end of the eyelet, bunching the wire up in the eyelet, crimping/not crimping the eyelet and 99% of the time the wire pops out when I'm trying to push the eyelet into the guide.

What am I doing wrong? is it just my fati'sh' fingers, lack of dexterity and general clumsiness, is there a one stop answer on how it should be done?

Just to note, most of the cars are using normal Scalextric guides and I don't club race (at the minute). Use is purely for my own and my sons entertainment but having a 2.5yr old tell me 'Daddy, the cars broken AGAIN!!!   ' isn't helping me win the Daddy is better than Mummy argument 

Hi

Does anyone have any empty plastic car boxes they would like to get rid of?

Have a few cars I’d like to store separately and safe

Thanks

Rob