FLAT kerb inserts for Scalextric Sport borders 

Tired of those bump kerbs on Scalextric Sport borders making your performance cars deslot? Miss out on the black borders that had flat kerbs? Fret no more! You may have seen my previous design for flat kerb inserts for Scalextric Sport track, and this one looks very much the same with a few key differences: the dimensions have been updated so that they are easier to install and less likely to break; a chamfer was added to the top edges to help improve print quality; and now they have stripes!

   

The model files for each kerb are single STLs that have multiple bodies, allowing the visible surface to be striped however you like and using whatever color you like. With these, you can print plain ones for most of the track, but then striped ones for the apex and entry/exit of turns to make the track look a little more realistic. Note that manual filament changing will be needed if you do not have a multi-material/color machine such as a Prusa with MMU, Prusa XL, or various BambuLabs machines with AMS.

I've provided a Prusa Slicer 3mf file that has all the models split and colored like the OEM kerbs. If you need to use a different slicer than Prusa Slicer, you can still import the STL files and then use the "split to parts" function to be able to assign different colors to the tiles.

If you do not have access to a printer, or it's not large enough for some of the larger pieces, please feel free to PM me to talk about an order. Pricing is very reasonable and I ship worldwide. 

https://www.printables.com/model/754536-...inserts-v2

Any questions? Please post below. :)

I'm hoping that some has one or two of these in good working order that they're willing to part with .

Thank you,
Simon.

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Check this out, a brushless motor fitted to a Carrera Digital car. Nice!

Hello everybody,
Am looking for some feedback from people who own a Race-Tuned controller. 
My interest was sparked by a posting elsewhere where the O-P mentioned that these units provide dynamic braking. Ebay confirmed this so looking for any pitfalls or encouragement before deciding to buy.

The context is just a bit of hobby interest, no intention to use one for competitive racing! 

Leo

Proxies nearly always require wheel inserts if you're using plain alloys, here's what I do...

• Don't throw plastic wheels away, one day they'll be useful
  

   

• I chopped an old axle shorter to fit in my dremel type grinder
  

   

• Push a wheel onto the knurled axle as square as you can so it runs true...it'll hold well enough
  

   

• Grind the wheel down to size on a big bastard file (that's their real name - honest)
  

   

• Grind it down to just fit inside your alloy wheel...you may find a lot of the wheel will disappear as you grind it really thinly
  

   

• Cut the front face of the insert with a razor saw, it's easier to do this whilst it's spinning in the dremel machine but run it slowly or it'll fly off into hiding
  

   

• Try the first one so you have the right thickness, you can cut it short but not push it into the wheel so far
  

   

• All 4 fitted and look much better than plain wheels
  

   

...and there's one nearly finished proxy car (just need to skim a few thou' off the tyres to width)

Anyone got experience with removing paint from Scalextric track pieces? I have used start lane pieces in the middle of the track and want to remove the paint. 

Suspecting that solvents might damage the plastic? 

Thanks in advance!

I have some 1/32 Airfix kits I plan on building into slot cars, using various chassis I have kicking about.  The last kit I built was a static Ferrari F1 car, about 40 years ago, so I'm a bit out of date on skills and knowledge.

What are your recommendations for adhesive?  I've got several - Humbrol Liquid Poly, Revell Contacta Professional (....IIRC), to name two.  I also use Superglue and plumbers solvent weld (yes, really!) for repairs.

Thanks in advance,
Stuart.