[JoeR]

I'm in the process of building (rebuilding?) my new track. When I got back into slot cars I bought a bunch of Scalextric classic track and cars just to get things going. I built a 3 section modular track that had three 4'x8' table that had folding legs so I could take them apart and fold them up and stack them against the wall in the garage so we could get the cars and my bike back in there.

That got to be too much of a pain in the butt and I also liked the idea of digital racing where you could have more than one car on a lane, that way more people (read grandkids) could race. So I sold the classic track and was able to buy a bunch of Scalextric digital stuff. I built a 16' x 7' table, with fold up legs that were curved on one end so I could tilt the table up against the wall and get the cars back in the garage. I messed with it a few times just to see if it worked but never got to finish it because 3 more grandkids came along and . . . well you know how it goes.

Lately I decided to get back to the track (less babysitting) but found that my 78 year old body was having some difficulty lifting the track to tilt it onto its side against the wall. It's all 2x4s, OSB and Plywood, plus the track pieces. So I thought building one out of galvanized steel studs would be lighter, which it is. Then someone one on another forum suggested I go to a routed track using MDF. So I figured I'd give it a try. I found a few threads on how to insert the Scalextic lane change and pit lane sections into the MDF track (some were less complicated than others) so I figured I'd give it a try.

I've got the steel stud frame about worked out and I'll be covering it, top and bottom with 1/4" plywood and using 1/2" MDF for the track. I've been thinking about the electrical and was wondering about being able to use the variable voltage AC to DC power supplies I bought for the old analog track. I've been searching for threads on using those with the digital power supplies but can't find anything (probably my lousy search terms). I understand that the digital systems supply full power to the track and the car's power is controlled by chips (or some electronic do dad in the car/controller). So do I even need the aftermarket power supply? The other question I had was about power taps. On my analog track I had a bunch of them. Do I need them on the digital track? If so are they run the same way as the analog track?

Thanks for any assistance anyone can give.

Joe

[woodcote]

Sounds like an exciting project!

If you're using Scalextric digital, use the Scalextric digital powerbase and the power supplies. This will provide constant 15V AC to the track - the amperage will depend on the powerbase model you are using (approx 8 Amps for an ARC Pro or six-car Advanced Power Base, each with two power supplies attached).

Because the digital command signal is sent via the track rails, you will need as perfect electrical continuity as possible - any power drop-outs also means a drop out of the digital command signal and that causes all sorts of problems. That requires a high standard of track construction (I think braid is preferred to copper tape for digital), maintenance and some power taps. On our 100-foot club circuits (built using Scalextric Sport track), we have three passive taps wired to the track piece next to the powerbase and radiating out to 25%, 50% and 75% of the track length (measured by number of track pieces). It is essential each tap connects the same rail, otherwise you will get a short circuit.

I hope that helps.

[JoeR]

Sounds like an exciting project!

If you're using Scalextric digital, use the Scalextric digital powerbase and the power supplies. This will provide constant 15V AC to the track - the amperage will depend on the powerbase model you are using (approx 8 Amps for an ARC Pro or six-car Advanced Power Base, each with two power supplies attached).

Because the digital command signal is sent via the track rails, you will need as perfect electrical continuity as possible - any power drop-outs also means a drop out of the digital command signal and that causes all sorts of problems. That requires a high standard of track construction (I think braid is preferred to copper tape for digital), maintenance and some power taps. On our 100-foot club circuits (built using Scalextric Sport track), we have three passive taps wired to the track piece next to the powerbase and radiating out to 25%, 50% and 75% of the track length (measured by number of track pieces). It is essential each tap connects the same rail, otherwise you will get a short circuit.

I hope that helps.

Hi Woodcote,

Thank you for the info. I am using the 6 car APB so I guess I'll just use the power supplies that came with it. Is there a drawback in using the aftermarket ones? The ones I have are 30V - 10A units. 

I'll be using the braid rather than the tape for the tracks. Do you have any suggestions for incorporating the lane change and pit lane sections into the routed track. I've read threads that suggest cutting a space out of the MDF to fit the Scalextric section in and wiring the Scalextric section into the track as well as using the Scalextric section but run the braid across the Scalextric section and use thin veneer or edge banding to raise the level of the Scalextric track up to the height of the other track. 

On the power taps, when you say connected to the same rail, that's basically the same way I had them connected to my analog track. All the red/black wires to "lane 1" and the green/white wires to "lane 2". So don't pay any attention to the lane change tracks, just wire the taps to the inside or outside lane? On my analog track I had a terminal block next wired to the first track after the power base and ran the taps from the terminal block to the other sections of track.

[woodcote]

The standard power supplies are more than adequate for running pretty much anything with traction magnets removed. And always a risk of damaging the powerbase if it accidentally receives excessive volts or the full 10A draw.

As for inserting the Scalextric lane change / put lane into mdf… I’ve never seen it in the flesh, only on forum posts. I’ve seen the whole track piece used or just the flipper and electronics (sensor, board & solenoid). The electronic components do need power from the track or separate power connection.

Your power tap design sounds great.