[chrisguyw]

And just another observation...

It appears that I will only use about a quarter of the drum width to true my 1/32 rubber tyres. Is there a way to use the full width of the sanding surface over time to get full value out of the drum?

Hi Jeremy, ...you can move the the axle a bit laterally by loosening the grub screw on the axle pulley, and moving the axle a touch...............this will give a bit of movement, but, not enough to allow the full use of the width of the drum. 

Remember that these machines were initially used to cut the much wider sponge tires used in 1/24 and RC cars.

I would not concern yourself too much with the wear on the drum................clean it off once in a while with a toothbrush (preferably an old one), and you will have no issues...........I trued hundreds of sets of tyres (rubber/sponge/urethane) for the customers at our commercial track without even thinking of replacing the drum.

Cheers
Chris Walker

[BAracer]

Power supply has arrived...

   

So maybe glue a couple of test tyres onto some hubs tonight, and then have a play and set it up over the weekend!

[KensRedZed]

Congrat!

Yes, testing is very good. 

   

[BAracer]

When can you pop round?

[KensRedZed]

Hi Jeremy,

If I were within a few hours drive, I would not hesitate. Thanks for the invite.

The interesting thing to note in the photo is the nail fails at the bottom left corner. One is coarse and the other is fine. Taking the sharp edge away from the sidewall to the tread patch is part of tire profiling and is important to handling the corners. While taking a fast corner, a sharp edge on the sidewall will make the back of the car skip out instead of slide.

A coarse nail file can leave small tears in soft urenthane. You might want to take your time and only use a fine nail file.

I profile both the inside and outside sidewalls. The outside slightly more round than the inside.

The next step is testing how your cars handle on your track. You'll find your own goove. It won't take long.

Best of luck!

[BAracer]

Just now...

   

[BAracer]

And here they are, the first two practice NSR tyres off the Hudy. 

   

Happy with the outcome. Consistent diameter across the width. Took it slow and gentle with the aim of going for a smooth finish. A bit rough round the edges (literally) where I had a go with a nail file to try and round them off. 

Will get on with some actual race tyres now, and just build up my experience on the machine.

[slotloco]

 A bit rough round the edges (literally) where I had a go with a nail file to try and round them off. 

I just use some really worn out fine sandpaper that I can curl around the edge of the tyre. But the idea is good, you do want that nice side profiling.
I will be interested to hear how your technique progresses, and what difference you feel the new beast makes to the ride of your cars.
- Keeping in mind I have "issues" with Hudy's undersized stub axle. - you will probably find it happliy takes an NSR wheel with a 2.37mm axle hole, and still have some level of slop.

[BAracer]

I have one set up observation, so far...

I watched the Triggerman YouTube video on setting up the wheel drive parallel with the drum. Using my calipers, there was a very slight coning of the tyre. So I went through the TM process but when I loosened the nut for the middle block, it did not seem to be any movement in it at all. I couldn't even get a 0.06mm feeler to slide in.

Have I missed something? Is the block at its limit of adjustment already? Would there be any benefit in loosening everything and setting it up from scratch?

And most importantly...where can I get those adjustment screws with the massive knobs on the end?!

[BAracer]

Re-watched the Triggerman video and did another reset on the Hudy and, blimey, I found the adjustment. There is a very small amount of movement in the centre block, and the feeler gauges he uses are not chosen by accident. The movement IS that small. 

Anyway, played around a bit, and re-rubbed the test tyres for each adjustment, and I think it is almost spot in now.  



And with a bit of searching, I discovered the big knobs are actually made by Triggerman.