[Anthony B]

STill have the ferrari - will get it out of storage :)

[KensRedZed]

I saw the Airfix box art and went "ooOOooOOoo".

So, I bought the kit. Opened it only to find out that it's a bit boxy and narrow for my liking. As most Airfix kits are. 

Then I saw a used Racer for sale and again went "ooOOooOOoo'.

I bought it. After it arrived I saw that it was HUGE! It runs like a tank, and sounds like a box of marbles going down the track.

My last effort was to buy a Fly kit. I have yet to make a scratch chassis for it yet.

However. You're making that Airfix kit look pretty good, Tony. 

   

[Tibbs]

Hi Ken, the box art is definitely cool.
They are all different sizes for sure, the yellow one looks very cool.
It's actually got a windscreen wiper, my one is injected into the windscreen, I might have to try and make one.
Thanks for sharing.

[Anthony B]

The 250 LM came out late 63 and the first iteration was very boxlike and as it developed it became more and more like the Fly model ,

Tony - you have a lot to answer for    

I had to go into the dungeon to get out my box labelled Airfix. Firstly the car I was referring to has long gone (same as my memory) and the one I have is merely a repainted 2nd release version.

       

But then - look what you made me do - I had to look at all the Airfix still to be done

   

Does anyone know where I can get Airfix Mini cooper tyres. I have scaley versions but they are too small and split. I have asked William at Scaleslotcar Tyres - he does not have but will try and source some to use as base for recasting urethanes. But that might not be too easy to find. Mine are like stones and simply disintegrate when trying to remove :). SO would be great to get a source for these

[Eddie Grice]

Hi Anthony
Re Airfix Mini tyres see Ortmann 52n & ,52o here:-
https://www.rsslotracing.com/tyres_restorationOther.htm

[Anthony B]

Thanks so much Eddie - greatly appreciated :)

[Tibbs]

The 250 LM came out late 63 and the first iteration was very boxlike and as it developed it became more and more like the Fly model ,

Tony - you have a lot to answer for    

I had to go into the dungeon to get out my box labelled Airfix. Firstly the car I was referring to has long gone (same as my memory) and the one I have is merely a repainted 2nd release version.



But then - look what you made me do - I had to look at all the Airfix still to be done



Does anyone know where I can get Airfix Mini cooper tyres. I have scaley versions but they are too small and split. I have asked William at Scaleslotcar Tyres - he does not have but will try and source some to use as base for recasting urethanes. But that might not be too easy to find. Mine are like stones and simply disintegrate when trying to remove :). SO would be great to get a source for these

I take no responsibility for your addiction, I have my own to worry about  
I was going to suggest the same tyre supplier, I get my tyres off Colin. They are very good.

[Tibbs]

I've managed to get quite a bit more done on the chassis.
Because I'm removing some support that the wheel arches give, I've made a brass piece that I've glued to the bottom section under the boot and some brass rod.
I wanted the brass piece to curve like the plastic section it sits in, so I attempted making a miniature metal workers sand bag.
I filled a plastic bag with sand and then put it under some nice old leather.
It worked a treat.
   
   
Next bit to tackle was the fixing mounts for the floating section on to the motor mount bracket and the chassis plate.
The tiny inserts I brought from AliExpress came very quickly and they are awesome.
There is 5 different sizes as in height in the pack, the bolt thread is 1.8mm, a nice small size.
   
With quite a lot of jiggery pokery I've got them in the right spot.
The bottom inserts that are permanently attached to the chassis plate, I have drilled the thread out of them so the screw can float freely inside it.
   
   
   
   
I will try and do a little video to show the movement, It floats quite well so I'm pretty pleased it's worked.
The next part I'm attempting is mounting two inserts in the back which won't be that easy.
If anyone has any suggestions re marking this, I would appreciate it.
My plan is the longer of my inserts, gluing one in each corner of the boot lid,  drill the holes under the rear bumper section where I've just added that brass.
My dilemma is how do you get the inserts in the right position?
Do I drill the holes under the bumper first, get a piece of brass bar and dab paint on the end, with the body on the base then poke the bar up to mark?
I hope that makes sense, if anyone has a easier way please let me know.
I look forward to any input.  
Cheers
Tony

[Anthony B]

Fantastic work and learning loads - thanks so much for keeping the updates flowing here!!

PS - I looked for my first ferrari with the poor brass chassis - sadly it is no long with me - must have passed it on a few years back!!

[chrisguyw]

The next part I'm attempting is mounting two inserts in the back which won't be that easy.
If anyone has any suggestions re marking this, I would appreciate it.
My plan is the longer of my inserts, gluing one in each corner of the boot lid,  drill the holes under the rear bumper section where I've just added that brass.
My dilemma is how do you get the inserts in the right position?
Do I drill the holes under the bumper first, get a piece of brass bar and dab paint on the end, with the body on the base then poke the bar up to mark?
I hope that makes sense, if anyone has a easier way please let me know.
I look forward to any input.  
Cheers
Tony

Hello Tony,........ I would recommend.......

1/ Drill the holes into the brass/plastic rear bumper/valence section first,.....and do not fret if these are not perfectly spaced, although it certainly looks better 

2/ Secure your inserts into some styrene/alu./brass tubing (styrene is best),.....and cut  the tubing longer than you will need.

3/ Install the inserts/tubing into you lower plastic/brass valence, and snug them.

4/ Drop the body on top and trim the tops of the body posts until you get the clearance you want/need.

5/ Remove the motor pod/wheels etc.,........this will give you better access to the body posts where they meet the underside of the body

6/ Tack the posts in with some styrene cement,.. (if you are using styrene tubes).,.....let dry.

The best glue for this type of job is a styrene weld,........ "Tack-it", "Tenax", "Plastruct", "Plast-I-Weld",...are all basically identical and dry very quickly,......far better than any epoxy etc. for styrene.

7/ Remove the body, add more styrene glue, and cut some small triangles out of styrene, these can be glued to the body post/body  where they meet.

Done !!..

PS If you screws are long enough to allow some body movement when fully bottomed out, you are good to go,......if not, you can use some set/grub screws inserted into the   inserts to take up some of the "depth" of the insert .......you can now tighten the body screws against the grub screws and have some body movement, without the body screws coming loose.

Cheers
Chris Walker