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Thunderslot McLaren
#21

2)  chrisguyw:  Can you help me understand how an Air System wheel that has its gap filled with a foam insert is anything but marginally (infinitesimally?) superior to a non-AS wheel with no gap? 
  • The filled gap would facilitate a flat tire circumference at rest, like the non-gap wheel. So both should feature equivalent corner grip.
  • The foam insert would be somewhat lighter than the aluminum situated in the same region of the non-gap wheel. So for an AS wheel, it seems possible that centrifugal force acting on the foam and the unglued center section of the tire MIGHT contribute to tire growth and greater vMax - tire growth that would not occur to a tire glued to the rib of a non-gap wheel.
  • Cost and time to mount & true tires on filled AS wheels would be greater than on non-gap wheels due to the materials and labor to put sponge in the gap of the AS wheel.
No doubt it works, or you wouldn't be going to the trouble.  I just wish to understand how far along the scale of Diminishing Returns we're talking about here.

Regards



Hello, Unlike the sponge tires that most of us grew up with, the tires used on current "plastic" 1/32 cars are made of Rubber/Silicone/Urethane, and are relatively "hard" by comparison......this coupled with the relatively light weight of these cars (Colin would approve), restricts the compression of the outside tire in a corner, and does not allow it to load significantly . 
The "rib" on most wheels results in a very thin amount of tire covering the rib, effectively "hardening" the tire even more, and further restricting its ability to compress/load.
Filling the "gap" on an AS wheel with foam, gives more depth to the tire, therefore increasing its ability to compress, and more progressively load the outside rear tire......this enhances grip. 
When AS wheels first hit the market, it was a fairly common practice to seal the wheel/tire on both beads, and inject a very small amount of air via a syringe,.....this did work well. allowing the tire to compress, but, it did not last long, with competitors routinely reaching for their syringes between heats. It did not take long for the clubs/commercial raceways to realize that this was far from optically correct (parents did not like their kids looking at syringes) and this practice was largely banned.

As far as the difference,...well,...it is not huge by any stretch, but, it does help, and, like lots of other things in slot car preparation, it is the sum total of the little things that separate the front running cars from the also rans......

Cheers
Chris Walker

The process,..should you think the work/expense is worth it  Thumbup.

1/ Foam strips are cut from 1/32 1/24 sponge tire blanks
2/ Strips are glued to the wheel using flexible contact cement.....CA and other glue types will tend to "harden" to foam
3/ A tire truer is used to reduce the dia. of the foam, so it is just proud of the "ribs"........the ribs themselves can be taken down a few thou. as well, to effectively add to the tire depth, and, its compression.



[Image: DSCN4343.jpg]
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#22

Thank you, chrisguyw.

A few comments in reply.

  1. I think my Thunderslot wheels are the same as the so-called 17" NSR 5004's.
    .
    Paul Gage offers urethane tires for Air System wheels that are molded such that the gap between flanges is filled.  His nomenclature denotes this feature by appending a "DF" suffix to part numbers.  ie:  PGT-20125LMDF (Regular compound; 20mm OD, 12mm width, 5mm hub rib width, 17mm ID, dual flange hub rib.)  An incomplete list of dual flange sizes can be seen on the NSR pg of the Paul Gage eBay store.
    .
  2. For those interested in pursuing the approach of filling the hub gap with foam, here are some alternatives to the labor, expense and waste associated with cutting up perfectly good sponge tires.
    .
    • Use ready-made rectangular or round profile closed cell foam strip/tape sold for use as gasket/weatherstrip applications.  (The round profile is typically referred to as "Gap & Joint Filler Backer Rod.")  Available in various widths & thicknesses & dia. and densities, some suitable for filling a hub gap - eg:  Frost King Vinyl Foam Tape 3/8"w x 3/16"T Moderate Compression.  I do not know whether the lack of continuity presented by a strip, compared to a donut is a significant consideration - perhaps ...
      .
    • Use hole cutters to punch flat washers from a sheet of closed cell foam of suitable thickness and density.  Fashion pieces of suitable diameter thin wall K&S Tubing into hole cutters for the ID/OD of the washers intended for filling hub gaps.
      .
    • Mask off wheels, leaving just the hub gap exposed.  Then apply expanding Polyurethane Foam Sealant from an aerosol can as sold for stopping drafts around window and door frames - eg:  Red Devil 0912 Foam & Fill.  Let set, then trim.


[+] 1 member Likes Slalom4me's post
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#23

(1st-Mar-20, 05:50 PM)Slalom4me Wrote:  Thank you, chrisguyw.
  • Mask off wheels, leaving just the hub gap exposed.  Then apply expanding Polyurethane Foam Sealant from an aerosol can as sold for stopping drafts around window and door frames - eg:  Red Devil 0912 Foam & Fill.  Let set, then trim.



Polyurethane foam sealant is much "harder" than foam and will not compress/rebound to the same degree, and will limit the advantages of using foam to create a tire with more compression...........while the polyurethane will fill the gap, so will epoxy, tape, etc.  or just buy traditional wheels.....just depends on the degree of performance you are after.

Cheers
Chris Walker
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#24

Just got the McLaren out and find that the tyres have worn a bit, probably due to my sideways driving style. I've come to hate the SlotiT wheels because of those daft little grubscrews that strip so easily (I think I'll drill them out and tap them and fit proper size ones)

Put the Thunderslot wheels and tyres back on and was horrified with the lack of grip in comparison. Plus one tyre keeps getting thrown off again. Still annoyed at how much I spent on this. Especially as it was basically for one race. Maybe they will run the class again in December. Hopefully I will have it sorted by then but right now, the SlotiT Ferrari with NSR Shark40 in it is quicker everywhere. Tappingfoot

PS. The boss on the SlotiT wheels isn't big enough to take a decent grub screw - rats!
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#25

Now I have a track up and running again, I've dug a few cars out of the box and started running them. The McLaren was placed carefully onto lane 2 and the controller depressed.........zilch, nada, not a peep.

NSR Shark 38 which was a bit nippy when it actually ran. No idea what is wrong but bunged a handy Shark 40 in it and it goes well again. Tyres are worn down a bit too much and the back of the chassis touches in a couple of spots on the track.

So the obvious thing to do is get some new ones. Hah!

Can't find a Thunderslot dealer in France. UK post is, shall we say, temperamental but Germany, as ever, turns up trumps. That is until you register and look at the shipping costs for a package that weighs less than an ounce and France is not that far away as the crow flies.

Cost of four tyres - 6,99€. Postage 20,99€.

On their bike!
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#26

https://www.slotcar-boutique.com/fr/thun...-grey.html
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#27

I have used them since Brexit - good and qucik to deal with Gordon!!
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#28

Thanks guys but....... they only take PayPal. My account is not accessible as we moved and didn't change the phone number that we didn't know until we moved! Thus I can't receive the code to get into my account. I tried using PayPal without an account as they offer and I just get a PayPal error! Tappingfoot They didn't send an SMS to verify my phone number as they said they would either.

Why are things never simple? I'll try contacting the dealer.
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#29

Gordon ,you should be doing your house up ,not worrying about slot car tyres  Wrench
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#30

Opened a new PayPal account in the end.

As suggested, Slot Car Boutique is very good and the sticky grey tyres arrived this afternoon. Still don't understand why I have the same problem as I did originally. The tyres just won't stay on the rims. OK, I've got an NSR Shark 40 motor in it but it's not that quick that the tyres shouldn't stay in place. Maybe they gave me small wheels by mistake!!

The fact that I would normally glue them anyway is not the point, they should run OK as they come.

The glue is drying as we speak and then we will see. At least I have some ground clearance now.
[+] 1 member Likes Gordon Steadman's post
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