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All (but mainly That Slot Car Dude!)

I found this on an Austrian website SCD...

   

If it allows you to put a camber to your tyres, then I want one!

Three questions: -

Is that what it does?

Any idea if they are still manufactured, as this is the only image of one I can find?

Does anyone have one to sell second hand?

Thank you.

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I have a couple boxes of Carrera High Banked 4/15° Curves. I’m looking to trade one or both of them for Carrera flat 4/15° curves. Please message or email me if interested. 
Grantah1 @ gmail.com

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I am new to the Board and new to Slot Cars.  Have a Carrera Digital track and bought slot it and NSR cars.  Chipped them with SP43.  They lose power over every digital element on the track.  I looked for threads about his and missed it.  Sorry if repeat question.  Is this normal and what is the solution?

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hi guys,i am working on a Scaleauto rs200 homeseries.  i am fiting sslotit axles,alloy wheels & rally guide. now also fiting a sidewinder motor at front driving front axle,so will be twin motor 4WD. any opinions or advice welcome.

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I've got a DS 3503 controller that seems to be "acting weird".  I bought it a couple of years ago.  I'm not good explaining, so please bear with me.

Two completely different cars keep randomly stopping while I'm using the DS controller.  If I swap to my spare SCX Pro-branded Parma controller the cars immediately run perfectly.   This only seems to be happening with the two cars, at the moment.  I have other cars with the same motors which seem to be running fine with the DS controller. 

Both controllers are 45ohm ones.  One car has a PSR 16k FF-050 motor, the other has an RX-42.  The PSU is a 12v one. .......And the first thing I did was clean the wiper contacts with proprietary contact cleaner, which made no difference.
However..........  If I swap to my SCX 14v PSU, the two cars will run loads of laps perfectly with the DS controller.

Do I assume that the DS controller is slowly dying?

Thanks in advance,
Stuart.

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A VERY good question! Sideways JPS Porsche.
[Image: 2yBjisJ.jpg]

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Just recieved my first ever Le Mans Miniature and oh wow, what a beautiful thing it is....

After briefly studying the fabulous details for many minutes.... out came the Phillips and off with its head (and body too) to look at the practicalities of squeezing a chip inside.

First conclusion, only a Sureguide is going to work. 
The only place a chip is going to fit is on the motor.
If anyone has done this Bugatti Type 59 before please do share your findings.

Failing that we will all be leaning together.... :-)

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Hi all,

I have joined to forum as whilst clearing the loft I came across my old and rather well used kit / track which i would like to pass on. Would this be something of interest to you or one of your connections? 

There are some images here to give you and idea of its condition - images / short video click here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/iKsEtS6MUYSnCSy18

As the track is metal and has been leant upon over the years, the engine magnets connect with the track in places and so prevent the car from running smoothly. Careful manipulation would no doubt improve things. There is only the one car.

I saw this link and so thought someone out there may have an interest in VIP: 
https://slotracer.online/lost-and-found/vip/#:~:text=Victory%20was%20founded%20in%20the,for%20the%20Ministry%20of%20Supply.

Thank you for your consideration here and I look forward to hearing from anyone interested in having this track. 

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A recent FB Marketplace purchase was the blue pre-owned BRM Escort, built from a white kit.

   
 
It arrived while I was on holiday so I couldn't check it out but I was expecting it to need a complete rebuild. 'Unboxing' it on my return prompted the second purchase, again pre-owned but this time a TTS factory built British Airways version, from 'the other slot car forum'.

   

I was expecting them to be identical parts-wise except for the makers name. However, the motor platforms were subtly different, while the front end of the factory TTS version also seems to have radically more camber.

          

As already mentioned I was expecting the kit version to need significant work, so I tackled that first. 

I was pleasantly surprised to find it fired up straight away on a 9v battery. Noisy, as expected but otherwise fine. I did check the body and interior but it had all been neatly and carefully assembled and didn't even need the usual clean. It came with a little bag of parts - real metal 'disk brakes', wheel inserts already painted a dark metallic graphite, bonnet and boot straps, wing mirrors and the original rear wheels fitted with the stock BRM tyres. (Out back it was running glued and trued sponges on a second pair of alloys - bonus!)

Apart from the above, all I've done so far is paint the wheel inserts 'aluminium' and one side of the brake discs matt black and fitted them. The black Minilite inserts just didn't look right to me. I've still to decide on the door mirrors. Black or silver? Mm?

The British Airways factory built DIDN'T run from the 9v battery. Just a flash of sparks at the braids when touched to the terminals. A shorted out motor? Mm? Maybe - but the seller had said it had been fitted with the higher performance TTS one so unlikely. Turning the back wheels by hand the gears were VERY tight Whipping the back axle out seemed to be the next step - but again, the axle was tight in its bearings. The whole back end geometry seemed to be wrong.

          

Anyway, wheels, axle and sidewinder gear out and the motor span like a good 'un, so ... The bearing blocks were loosened off and the axle fed through them until it could be moved in and out freely. At that point the blocks were tightened up and the whole back axle reassembled. Things were better as the motor would now drive the back axle but it was still a bit tight. Final adjustment came with the motor mounting block. It took a lot of fiddling to get it all moving freely but I eventually found the sweet spot, so it's now running - quietly, as well as quickly too!

Attention turned to the body and interior. The latter being loose it was removed and the whole lot given a bath in warm soapy water. The windows were cleaned on the inside before gluing the interior in place. Before wax polishing the body some fine detailing pens were used to restore the damaged rear number plate and a couple of paint chips in the window surrounds.

          

Having sorted the back end, at some point I need to check out that severe front end camber, then do the same running gear/front end treatment on the blue Escort, although that seems less pressing.

P.S. Just remembered, comparing ride height I found the blue kit car needed lowering to match the factory build. BRM's rubber post caps were removed and replaced by some 1mm o-rings to dampen the chassis. Now they both sit at the same height.  Thumbup

P.P.S. The B.A. car is shown in retailer's ad's as having blue spoked Minilites. I guess the previous owner re-did them in silver. No worries. I prefer them that way.

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[Image: V3TJMxv.jpg]

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