Hi,
Im Ron from Brampton Canada. I have a small routed track and am one of 3 tracks in our local club. I will post pics in January of the track 
Cheers

Team Slot are aiming to deliver four new rally cars either side of Christmas - and they look rather nice...

         

The Renault and the Escort are new liveries, but the Lancia Delta HF is a new model - of which we can expect many more versions and liveries. Here are a couple of pre-production pics showing the body shell and interior, plus the detail on the dashboard...

         

And here are some 3D renderings of another Delta HF that Team Slot are working on for next year...

         

The three standard cars - Renault, Escort and Lancia Test Car - will retail at £49.50. The special edition Camel Lancia will be available at £54.95. Arrival with UK retailers was scheduled for the week beginning 16 December, but most have been carried over to January.

A big thanks to Steve at Staffs Slot Cars, Team Slot's UK distributor, for the pictures and release details.

Just dropping a hello in here! 

I am active on a couple other forums but have not gotten signed up over here. I race 1/32 and 1/24 cars. Looks like you have a lot of solid information on this forum, I look forward to contributing!

Zack

Just back from Asda. I spotted a special offer at the end of one of the kitchen stuff aisles and immediately thought - "Project Boxes".
Label says "10 food storers" (sic) and the cost for the bunch of 10 is 2 GB Pounds.
They are not the highest quality but seem durable enough and they are stack-able so one can literally stack up the projects. 
Usable size approx 145mm long, 100mm wide and 45mm high, therefore will accommodate a 1:32 bodyshell and chassis along with bits and bobs.

At clubs where food is a priority, they could also hold biscuits or sandwiches.

Leo

   

   

The Scalextric Advent Calendar is here: www.scalextric.com/uk-en/advent-calendar

In the run up to Wednesday 25 December, expect 24 days of competitions, new website content and announcements.

Day One is a competition to win an ARC Pro Le Mans 24 hour set (closing date 6 December). Find out more behind the #1 door here: www.scalextric.com/uk-en/advent-calendar

It's not often we feature 1/24 scale new releases here in the SlotRacer Online News section. However, these BRM Opel Kadetts are too good to ignore. They are also small enough to run side-by-side on 1/32 scale track, so that's another reason to look at them...

         

The two models are:

BRM-099 Opel Kadett GT/E No.165 24h Classic Youngtimer Nurburgring 2018, Oliver Davidovic
BRM-100 Opel Kadett GT/E No.43 DRM 1976, Walter Rohrl

Each has a different body moulding, the most obvious difference being the front splitter.

Under the body, the BRM engineering is a thing of great beauty and simplicity...

         

As usual, there is the anodized aluminium chassis, a 19,000 rpm S-Can motor, aluminium wheels all round, aluminium axle and motor holders,  nylon gears (12:33 ratio), a sprung guide and independent front stub axles.

There is a full range of spares and tune-up parts that are shared with the other 'Group 2' or 'Mini-Saloon' series of BRM cars - the NSU TT, Renault R8 Gordini, Abarth 1000TCR, Mini Cooper and Simca 1000.

The Kadett measures in at

Length: 165mm
Wheelbase: 99mm
Front Track: 72mm
Rear Track: 72mm
Height: 48mm
Weight: 132g

That makes the Kadett the longest and widest of the BRM Mini-Saloons, but even with the 72mm rear track, two of them will race side-by-side on 1/32 Ninco or Policar track - Scalextric Sport will be a much tighter squeeze. Of course, if you run on Carrera or wood track the Kadetts will have acres of room.

On the track, the BRM Mini-Saloons are a lot of fun to drive. I thoroughly enjoyed racing the NSCC BRM Mini Coopers at this year's UK Slot Car Festival. Indeed, I've had my eye on this range for while and these new cars are terribly tempting as a Christmas treat...

The first two Kadetts have just arrived in the UK and are priced at £105.

Thanks to Pendle Slot Racing who distribute BRM cars and parts in the UK. The full range is here: www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/brand/brm

Hello Folks, While most of my building/racing over the last 10+ years has been with "hardbody" cars, I still Love the "clear" body cars, as these were the ones I built the most during the 60's/70's. While the 1/24 commercial cars eventually morphed into "speed at all cost wedges", (most not at all realistic, nor well painted) the 1/32 club scene generally required some decently turned out scale (ish) bodies.

There were some really great manufacturers (most notably Lancer) turning out literally hundreds of different models, all well detailed and well proportioned. Lancer made bodies in HO, 1/32, and 1/24 scale, and when well painted/detailed they could be made to look gorgeous. More recently, Truescale did some repops of some of the nicer molds from days gone by, and these can also be made to look equally as wonderful. On the other side, there were some truly horrific efforts by a number of manufacturers and these no doubt did not help the "clear" body reputation.

Done well, they can look great, and they sure help the car to handle well... 

Below are a couple of "clear" 1/32 cars that I have done...

Cheers
Chris Walker

First up is a Watson roadster, (Jim Rathman livery) done by Ej's hobbies (I have posted this somewhere here before).....it was a complete kit including body/chassis/motor, etc. etc., but I did build a new chassis, and changed the wheels/inserts.

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Next is a Lola T163 (Chuck Parson's Simoniz CanAm car) from Truescale....decals from Pattos'

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And last a March 717, also from Truescale.......

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And a chassis shot of the March, ( I didn't have the inserts in at this stage).....a similar chassis sits under the Lola

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As a 13 yr. old I got a job at the local "commercial" track (Lorne Park Raceway),..........well, I call it a job, even though it was really cleaning the bathrooms, and restocking the chip and chocolate bar shelves.....( I think I washed my hands most of the time  ) ....this was the best I could do as I was too inexperienced to be allowed to work on the cars or really be of any help to the customers. But, it did give me free track time, some needed pocket money, and most importantly to me, I got to hang around and learn from the "fast" guys.

As my scratchbuilding skills at this age were really far from great, I was saved by "Champion of Chamblee" when in 1968 they launched their line of ready built 4 rail chassis , the #285 for 16D motors, and the #286 for 26D motors. At the time these were the closest you could get to "scratchbuilt" performance straight off the shelf, and after cleaning many a bathroom, I finally had enough dough to buy one. For some reason, I chose the #286, which was for the 26D motor.....(it was not long before I realized that the #285, for the 16D would have been the better choice).......anyway, I loved the car, and while neither I or my car could compete with the "big" guys, I certainly got a lot closer than I had ever been.

These ready built chassis' were a saviour to the less experienced builder, and while they were very good, they were soon made obsolete (1969/70) with the advent of the "off the shelf" wire and brass anglewinder chassis. Luckily, by 1970 I was able to build half decent chassis' myself.

That car has lone since gone, and a few years ago, I managed to find a NOS Champion #286 chassis, and the bits, to build another......a little nostalgia tugging at me.


Cheers
Chris Walker


I painted the body to somewhat resemble what I remember of the original, and as it won't be raced in anger, I did add a few details.
My original was a Lancer Lola T160........this is a Truescale Lola T160.

Medium Metallic purple, with some black fogging along the fender lines, with a mustard yellow stripe.

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"American Line" cast aluminum 5 spoke wheels front and rear, with Cox "LaCucaracha" knife edge front tires.

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The chassis is a 4 rail brass rod affair that you could buy either nickel plated, or natural brass.......the nickel plated versions did not tarnish over time, and I thought at the time that they looked cooler. As is a good idea with any pre built chassis, the solder joints were "undone" so that any "twists" could be removed, and then re soldered. The joints were left to look a bit "blobby" (as they came from the assembly line).

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The chassis had a drop arm, and it did not take long to figure out that "freezing" the drop arm in place helped handling considerably.........Thankfully, after 1969 drop arms pretty much disappeared. A bit of dirt on the brushes and on the front of the drop arm are telltales that I took it for a few laps just before picture time.

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The car is powered by a heavily modified 26D motor, (magnets/shims/commutator/wind/brushes/springs/heat sinks, balancing, etc. etc.) and runs much quicker and cooler than my original "DynaRewind".
It also runs on urethane tires (for my track),...which are not close to the performance of sponge, but I do have plenty of sponge boots should I take it to a commercial track

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We're planning to make a change to the club section over the next few days, and following on from that we'll also be adding a new club directory to the SlotRacer website, to supplement what you're posting here on the forum. These changes are intended to help the clubs, their members, and anybody who might be interested in joining them, so we hope you'll welcome them.

Firstly, we'll be setting up sub-forums for the clubs that post fairly regularly and consistently here, so that people can find all your posts in one place, rather than having them spread out over a number of pages. Hopefully that will be a fairly simple and sensible change.

Secondly, we'll be setting up a club directory which will include all of the clubs that have posted their information here. Each club will have their own dedicated page which we'll set up with information, photos, website and social media links, google maps, videos, and forum and social feeds, depending on what's available for each club. In effect it will be a one stop shop, or a portal for anybody who might be interested in your club. But even though we'll be setting this up, you will have the final say on how your club is presented.

We obviously hope you'll be happy to see your club being promoted, but if at any point there is anything you want changing, or if you want to opt out, all you have to do is let us know. The club directory will get a prominent link on the home page, and will be posted on our Facebook page and group, so we hope we can help to promote your club and everything you are doing there.

A small tip for attaching scenic items to your layout. Try this stuff:
   

It is normally marketed for dolls house use but it can be used for a wide variety of things and its best use is for semi-permanently sticking down figures on your layout. All you need to do is gently scrape the feet of your figures into the pot so you have a small amount transferred and push them down onto the surface. It really is that simple. The advantage of using Tacky Wax over super glue is that it allows you to move the figures around at will, just lift and plonk them somewhere else. It can be used for buildings as well and can be removed with a little warm soapy water when necessary. Another use is attaching rear wings on your cars so they pop out in a crash rather than break.
£6.50 on eBay for a 28gm pot which will last forever and be sufficient for thousands of figures.