Does anyone have any experience with these? Are they a gentle way into the world of scratch?

Are you limited with the bodies that will fit onto them?

How do they rate performance wise? Better than plastic for certain situations?

They seem nicely made...

While setting up WHO Rally-Sprint HQ last week, I came across a box of cars that I was going to sell last year and sort of forgot about...

I'm not sure anyone here will be interested - I will put them on a couple of Facebook groups and/or eBay next week - but I thought I'd give you all first dibs and at a nice price

PM me if interested.

All individual cars are £30 including postage. The two sets of digital cars are £85 each.

Part 1: Policar, Scaleauto & Carrera Evolution

   
**SOLD**Policar CAR03c Ferarri F40 Silverstone 1995. Still sealed in shrink wrap. An impulse buy - not my era. It's this one at Pendles. **SOLD**

   
Policar CAR01a Ferrari 312PB Monza 1972. Never run. Only removed from box a couple of times. Tyres have 'greyed'. Was going to build to run in a Classic Sports class, but didn't and won't. It's the same (different number) as this one.

   
**SOLD**Scaleauto SC-6016A Mercedes SLS AMG GT3 Nurburgring 2010 #738. It's this one.**SOLD**

   
**SOLD**Carrera Evolution 20027530 Lamborghini Huracán GT3 #63 2015 Blancpain Series. Not run, not tampered with. Has been out of the box. Comes with the lexan rear wing protector, spare mirrors, red & black guides and braids. No longer available in this livery.**SOLD**

   
**SOLD** Carrera Evolution 20027576 BMW M6 GT3 Team Falken #3. Magnets removed (in bag) and run for some home laps on Carrera track with Carrrera guide fitted. Very excellent condition. Comes with the lexan rear wing protector, spare mirrors, red & black guides and braids. It's this one. **SOLD**

   
**SOLD** Carrera Evolution 20027481 Ferrari 458 GT2 AF Corse #54. Run for home laps on Scalextric track with red 'shallow' guide fitted. Very excellent condition. Comes with the lexan rear wing protector, Ferrari box sleeve, spare mirrors, black guide and braids. The 458s are no longer produced by Carrera. **SOLD**

The Carrera cars are lovely lookers - I was considering 3D chassis, but those plans were shelved.

Part 2: Scalextric & Scalextric digital coming soon...

Just something I’ve been thinking about while doing the dishes today. What would it take, organisation wise, to put on a 5/6 round national (hosts from around the country) ‘clubmans’ proxy series while we can’t get to clubs. It could be for any range of cars (80’s scalextric, rally, gt etc) based on cars that can be obtained for around £10 and under or most people will have at home already. It could run like the current rally sprint but could be: send cars to round 1, have the event, return cars to competitors for fettling ahead of sending to round 2 etc.

By clubmans I mean both running at peoples houses, on a permanent/semi permanent/home built for that event track rather than a ‘pro’ club track (I’ve seen some awesomely landscaped home tracks) and also fairly basic cars (or a range of classes from standard to highly modified) allowing for ingenuity and building rather than who has the biggest wallet. The event could even have a ‘guest support category’ each round (eg lmp on round, trucks the next, rally next round etc) to give people maximum chance to run as many different cars as they like.
Due to the couple of month gap between events the host could take their time over an event, rather than 6 hours on a Sunday it could be one class a day or 5-10 cars a night for a week or so. 

Like I said this was just a thought while doing the dishes. I have never run a proxy so wouldn’t know the issues involved, just with so many people enjoying this rally it might give us something to look forward to and could turn in to a yearly thing?

I just started this hobby two, no three weeks ago. I purchased a PC and a Race-Link USB interface for D124/132. The Carrera race link I can't get to op and set up.
My PC does not have Bluetooth but I want to use the PC and not a phone or tablet. Is there any other Race management out there for my new PC besides Carrera's? 
I am thinking there has to be something for me to get. Even if I have to pay for it I don't care, as long as it works this interface cost $40.00 but with our a program for my PC, it is worthless.

Hello, Back into 1/32 slot car hobby finally after many years I had a chance [ Due to covid and being bored ] to dig out of storage my childhood Revell Monaco 1/24 scale race set with extra track sets and no cars, so I purchased several different cars including 2wd -  Ninco Porsche, Opel GT and Citroen,  Scalextric Opel, and Fly BMW GTR . When trying to race it is impossible to keep them on track or accelerate they just spin, slide and crash as if you were driving on ice its been very frustrating experience and not fun. The track is very smooth compared to Carrera and Ninco track  that I see online, are these new cars not made for older track, should I give up on this track ? and buy Ninco or Carrera track ? or can I paint this old Revell track ? I was thinking of using Rust-Oleum spray paint 2x paint and primer in one made for plastic and textured paint.  I'm trying to  build a Rally car setup that will consist of mostly curves, 34 curves and 11 straights I want scenery to be mostly dirt road and snow covered and with some asphalt so painting track would complete my objective of a rally track, but will it hold up. 
Thanks in advance any suggestions or ideas are appreciated.

I want to buy a new slot car track and cars for my grandchildren and myself to play on.   The oldest are both 6 year-old boys, with a couple younger sisters coming up too.   The boys both love cars and anything "fast", and I did get out my old (1977) Aurora A/FX track over the weekend.   We had plenty issues getting it going and never were completely successful but they had a lot of fun when it did work,  and I could see that that joy would only increase as they get older, playing with a reliable new set. 

The HO cars of the Aurora set are very similarly sized as the Hotwheels cars they love to play with, but I'm thinking a larger scale (1/32?) might better for them.   The cars do need to be a bit rugged as they learn some finesse, and the size of the track layout is an issue too of course.  I haven't thought enough yet about where and how to store the track layout.  I see references to analog and digital racing and I'm not sure of the difference; I could use a little help with that too. ;)

I'm sure this topic comes up around here from time to time.   Can you guys offer some suggestions for a slot car set that will serve our needs well?  Any help will be much appreciated!  Thanks, Gary

DeSlots, DeSlots, DeSlots...

When your car comes out of the slot , you lose time , risk damage to the car and (more often than not) lose the race.
In high level racing, a faultless set of laps without DeSlotting is the first minimum requirement to put yourself in a position of being able to win an event.
For me, its only a "good race night" if I have no unforced offs.
Just one "off" during the event can ruin your overall finishing position.

We can separate DeSlots into
A. Caused by Driver
B. Caused by Car

In this discussion, I'm going to focus primarily on B.

1. Start Line Power DeSlot.
The worst start to a race you can have.
Most common with angle winder motor configurations.
The car lifts the front clean out of the slot when you hit the power.
Added to the DeSlot is the location of the start line which is, more often than not, on a straight which is not covered by a marshal.
Even if the start line is covered by a marshal, they are often not paying attention to the start line as the rest of the field rushes away.

Contributory Causes:
High torque motor
Short Gear ratio
Suspension front/centre pivot(s) too tight and unable to absorb the initial power shock
One of the rear wheels is loose on the axle
Tyres moving on the rim
Too much rear end grip
Front of the car is too light
Braids too springy
High centre of gravity
Rear tyres not the same diameter because of tyre wear.

Fixes:
Change the gearing for more top end speed and less brutal start line acceleration.
Loosen your front suspension pivot so that it can absorb the shock as the motor climbs up the crown gear.
Add a small amount of  silicone paste to the front motor mount spring simulate a damper.
Glue and true your tyres to the same diameter.
Crank back the attack curve on your electronic controller.
As a last resort you might want to add chassis weight close to the guide.
As a very last resort on the night, focus on not instantly snapping the throttle open at the start. Feed it in slowly.

2. Rollover on corner entry.
Causes:
Centre of Gravity is too high
Rear track too narrow
Too much Rear traction
Tyres too square edged

Fixes:
Lower your CofG :
- lightweight interiors,
- lightweight crystalwork.
- offset motor mount
- smaller rear wheels and tyres
Lower the rear wing height.
Round off the shoulders on both sides of the tyre
Increase your axial polar moment : Add chassis weight, (low and wide) as a last resort.
Loosen the front axle top set screws allowing the front axle some vertical movement.
Fit Zero-Grip front tyres or glaze your fronts with nail polish, superglue or epoxy resin.

3. Understeer on corner entry
The car goes straight on instead of traversing the corner.

Causes:
Front wheels anchored too low so the outer front wheel levers the guide blade out of the slot on corner entry.
Front tyres too grippy and too low.
Chassis twisted
Guide is not free to turn
Front body screw too tight
Guide is too loose a fit and is slopping about.
High speed Brake failure

Fixes:
Use the set screws to lift the front axle slightly or fit thinner tyres.
Flatten your chassis using a steel flat plate , magnets and hot water
If your guide is too shallow, slight variations on track surface combined with high cornering forces may trigger an understeer DeSlot.
You might want to experiment with Deeper blades.
Use softer braids. Lift and shape them slightly so that they can absorb the rail imperfections to mitigate the situation where contact might be lost leading to brake failure at high speeds.
Ensure your guide is free to move and self centres. Different manufacturers make differing guide shaft sizes so don't assume compatibility.

4. "Snap - roll" on corner exit .
This kind of DeSlot can be spectacular. The car pirhouetting vertically as the outside rear wheel induces lift and spin.

Causes:
Too much rear end grip
Loose suspension
Body attached too tight to the chassis
Rear tyres hit the wheel arch under extreme cornering
CofG too high
Guide is too loose a fit and is slopping about.
Motor torque too much for the car

Fixes:
Don't dope your tyres with oils and chemicals if it is not needed.
Harder rear tyres
Harder rear suspension springs
Allow the body shell to float on the chassis, longer body screws. Fettle the chassis to body contact surfaces.
Smaller rear wheels, skinnier tyres, fettle the wheel arches or narrow the rear track to bring the tyres inside the wheel arches (risks bringing on under steer de-slot behaviour)
Lower CofG (see above)
If your guide is very loose, the car may stutter mid corner because the inner braid loses contact.
As you open the throttle to compensate for the power loss , the guide sits flat again, contact is remade and the car is suddenly subjected to more voltage than it can handle.

5. Oversteer out of a corner?
The car slides the back end out wide until the blade has no more more movement remaining and twists the car out of the slot.
This is probably not a car problem.
Leave it later (out of the corner) before you open the throttle fully. As in Karting, Fast-Slotting is not achieved by "drifting"
Try to keep the back end grounded.

6. Straight line full speed "What the .... just happened?" de-slots
Heading down the straight and the car just jumps out? Ok some tracks are rough but:
- Is there anything trapped under your braids?
- Does an eyelet or soldered wire end protrude below the guide blade surface?
The braid's attack surface should be soft, not hard as an anvil.
- Does the blade and braid combination you are using just dig too deep into the track slot (and bottom out) ? Deep blades added to super skinny race braids can cause problems.
- does your front axle have enough free vertical movement ?

Fixes:
Fettle the the leading lower edge of the guide blade with a modelling knife, creating a wedge.
Use thicker braids or a shallower guide.
Shape the leading edge of the braid.
If the rail surface is genuinely very rough, maybe guide blade springs and/or rally blades are the way to go for your track.
Loosen off the top set screws (or otherwise adjust the axle) to allow front wheels a little more vertical movement so that a bump in the track does not transmit to the chassis.


Reslotting issues:

Remember also that after a DeSlot happens, the marshals have to get the car back in the slot ASAP.
Ensure your guide self centres to make it easier for the marshals to do this otherwise after 3 attempts, they will up-end your car, pull the guide straight and then reslot your car, wasting time !
Arrange your guide's power wires to centre the guide. Many chassis designs allow the wires to be held in place so that self centring can be easily done. Some wires are better at self centring than others. My preference is PSR silicone sheathed braided wires.

Impact DeSlot 
A fun afterthought, (maybe not so much fun)
Despite your best car prep and conscious effort to improve driving techniques, other drivers can and will cause offs for you.
Deslotted cars in your lane are a hazard to be avoided if you can.
When racing, look ahead of your car. Digital racers learn this skill because a car-in-your-lane is the norm rather than the exception and planning ahead for overtaking manoevres is a key skill.

There are two schools of thought on stranded cars:

1. The NASCAR method.
Keep the peddle to the metal even if you can't see where the stranded car ended up (lost under a bridge maybe) and trust in dumb luck that you get through. The logic for this in 1:1 racing is that a spinning car ahead of you won't be there when you reach it.
If you're lucky, you are through and lose no time at all. (See " Days of Thunder" or Pixar's "Cars" for movies where this is shown)
If you are unlucky , high speed impact will deslot you and possibly cause a lot damage to both cars.

2. The F1 method.
Avoid contact with others at all costs.
Tip toe through blind sections and come to a complete halt if you can see a car is across your lane.
Your slot car is not as fragile as an f1 car but every contact risks damage.

As always, let us all know how YOU do things.
Discussion is always fruitful. 
AlanW

A warning for anybody that is using their email address as their username.

If you have your email address on display so publicly, you are inviting unscrupulous people to bombard you with spam. The bots will pick up on your email address, it will be listed, stored, sold on and used.

I would strongly recommend choosing a username which is not your email address. Message me, or let me know below if you'd like to change it.

Greetings everybody!  I got my first slot car set when I was around 8 or 9.  It was an Eldon set in 1/32 and it was followed a couple years later with a Strombecker 1/32 set.   At 13, my family moved to Geelong, Victoria Australia, and within a few months the commercial slotcar craze arrived down under and soon there were two tracks within a couple hundred yards of our house.  My "home" track was Avus Raceways, owned by an expatriate German couple.  We had a 250 foot, eight lane track along with an electronic lap-timer.  Our track lap record was 11.8 seconds, done with a 1/24 Russkit vac-form Porsche 906 equipped with a rewound and balanced Mabuchi 26D.  I made a 14 second lap with the same car, using the controller in one hand and and a push-button "brake" in the other.  We had weekly races for cash and car prizes and even hosted a 12 hour Enduro, complete with three hours in the dark requiring working lights!

Fast forward to 1978 and my first married Christmas.   My wife gave me an Aurora A/FX HO set.   It lasted for a few years and was eventually put away.   Fast forward even more and now I have four young grandchildren, ages 3,4 and 2 x 6.  The older two are boys and crazy about cars of course.  This weekend, we set up what was left of the old Aurora set and found that the track needed quite a bit of attention and while the cars (two Magna-traction replacements for the originals) would run, the ancient tires were done for.  Still, they loved running the cars around the circuit we made.

I'm going to invest in another set soon.  I predict a lot of racing fun before much longer!   I'm excited to be a member here, and look forward to "picking a lot of brains" for current info.

Best regards, Gary

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/40011755...5615%23700

Just  saw  this  and  thought   they  might  be  good  for  the  HO  enthusiasts