Connections

Here we'll deal with how to connect the modules both phsically and electrically.

You may be able to get away without either of these connections, but if you are holding a public event, you're probably better to be safe than sorry.

Table Connections

Each table needs to connect solidly with the next, in order to avoid any over boisterous drivers or marshals from knocking the table and disjointing the track, or even damaging it.

After much deliberation, we've arrived at a simple solution.

It seems that the most likely and sensible construction for the table tops is to have a thin, lightweight surface supported by a frame underneath to keep it flat.

This makes it possible to either bolt or clamp those frames together to provide a solid connection.

Bolting the frames together is simple and cheap.

Our suggested method is to use two bolts directly under the track exits, with centres 40mm below the table surface, level with the outside edges of the track.

Bolt Positions

So for an R1 exit, the centres would be 428mm apart, and for an R2 the centres would be 740mm apart, as shown above.

Where you put the bolts on the table frame, how far from each edge if you like, will depend on the position of the track exits, so decide on your track design first, and only drill the holes in the frame once you're sure your happy.

We'd suggest an M8 bolt with a wing nut, and washers. We'd also suggest drilling your holes not at 8mm diameter, but at 10mm or even 12mm. This will allow some degree of adjustment, to allow for any inaccuracy.

Bolts

Electrical Connections

For a portable track, it may not be wise to rely completely on the track connections to carry the power around the layout, as they can work loose over time, resulting in power drops around the circuit. On the other hand, you may not have any problems, in which case you can ignore this section.

But chasing down a faulty connection in the circuit can be very frustrating, particularly if you're holding a public event where people are waiting to race.

So we'd advise a system of interconnecting power taps, soldered to the underside of the power rails and connected using patch cables.

Wiring Diagram

The diagram above shows the basic wiring layout for a straight module.

The wiring follows the normal practise for power taps, where the outside power rail on one side of the track is connected to the outside rail on the opposite side, and the inside to inside etc. The difference here is that we have four sockets at each end of the module which carry the power on to the next module, through patch cables.

The wiring diagram above, for the straight module, is also applicable for a corner module, though obviously the sockets will be on adjacent sides rather than opposite each other. Loop modules are again similar, but only require one set of sockets.

Sockets

The type of sockets we recommend are speaker binding posts as shown below.

Speaker Sockets

These have several advantages over most other types of socket.

They can accept 4mm banana plugs, spade terminals, or even bare ended wire, so they are quite flexible, and should allow connection even in emergency situations where you break or lose a cable.

They are also rated at 10A so they should be able to handle the power, they're available in a range of colours so you can colour code the sockets to make connecting them up simpler, and they're also capable of mounting on thicker materials than most sockets.

The most practical position for the sockets is on the top surface of the table, between the tracks as shown below. This makes it possible to plug in the cables without having to clamber under the tables.

Cable Arrangement

For those who prefer to keep the connections and cables hidden, you can use spade terminals intead of banana plugs for the patch cables, and then it can all be hidden behind a barrier.

Bridge

The wiring for a bridge section is slightly different. Here, because of the crossed track, the outside power rails become the inside, and vice versa. So, a blue socket, representing an outside power rail, at one end of the module will need to be wired to a red socket at the other. The wiring, just like the power rails, must swap over, so that the connections to the next module is correct.

This might sound complicated, but unless you are planning a figure of eight track, you can just ignore it.

Bridge Wiring