[KensRedZed]

I posted an HO car on a 1/32 forum with a similar name. Why? Because no one started an HO thread. 

Let's wake this up a bit. Speaking of getting into HO drag racing. Look what came along.

   
   
   
   

I took the guts out of the chassis. While the body looks mint. The chassis needs a lot of TLC. The rebuilding starts.

   

I know there is no class for this old girl. But I could not resist.

I've collected enough AFX straights to make a drag race test track. It won't be the same as Andy's track. But it will allow me to test and compare before sending cars across the big pond.

[Top Down]

The body's in beautiful condition Ken, complete with front grill and wheelie bars to the rear, both often mising. Looks like the ultra wide rear slicks too, maybe?

[Mazda]

Nice car you found there Ken

[KensRedZed]

Thank you very kindly TD and Mazda.

Ultra wide slicks? My humble apologies, as I have nothing to compare it to. I'm learning as I go. You gentlemen are the experienced experts.

I also picked this odd thing up yesterday. The aluminum wheels caught my attention. They don't really suit the car. The car/body can be restored, and the wheels can go on a hot rod. The crusty, hard tires will get tosses for silicones. They're more like foam rocks at this point.

   
   

[KensRedZed]

So umm... I bumped into this really cool site and found a mate to the recently acquired Aztec. It's listed as unused, and it's only $31.99 US.

   

Whatever you do. Don't go here and search around... or you might buy something. 

http://www.slotcarcentral.com/mm5/mercha...e_Code=SCC

Bob's a really nice guy.

[Top Down]

Yep - those are the ultra-wides. 11/32"w x 5/8"dia I think? Look as hard as rock though.

[KensRedZed]

Yessir Top Down. They are vintage rock-tires from 1973. But very wide ones. 

I can't see these becoming anything more than exibition racers. Unless several more show up...

I need to replace the tires on almost every car I buy. That's a regular problem when buying vintage. The Dyno-Mite dragster is advertised as unused from 1973. I got a funny feeling that the rear tires are rocks like all the others.

[KensRedZed]

I know many people are way ahead of me concerning car collections. Please humour me as I fill in the blanks.

I picked up these used and abused cars last Sunday. The shoes are worn out, some springs are missing. But the bodies look nice enough to rebuild the chassis (after washing them with warm water and soap).

   

Then this little box arrived today from MEV Originals. 3-new bodies, and 2-full sets of Vincent wheels.  

   
   

Even the box looks handy to ship cars over for HO proxy racing. Thanks Mike Vitale from MEV Originals! 

[Model Murdering]

Oh man, now you've gone and done it Ken! The four gears are great fun, but be advised the hoighty toightys will correct any poor nomenclature. It was the last slot car I purchased in my youth. I think it's best to put the following blurb here. We can move/change it later

The Specialty chassis had a full width dragster tire, or low pro tire depending on the model. I've used the replacement silicones for years. Jag Hobbies has them. Slotcar Central used to carry the original stock silifoams, which I have not used. If the original silifoams arent too awfully baked, (read still slightly pliable and not crusty) you can reconstitute them using 99% isopropal alcohol and flowable clear silicone. Pump some alky into the tire by massaging with your finger. It should push back if it's a viable candidate. I like to pump them clean of any large amounts of debris, specifically foam duff.

Then massage some alky thinned silicone into the foam. Put the tire on a mandrel. Smear the contact patch evenly, spin the excess off, and stand them up to dry. After they dry, I'll scuff them around with some 220/320 paper on my truing pad. The above being somewhat similar to the approved technique for making your own silifoam tires.

The dragsters featured a 5 ohm blue/gold armature.  Although coveted at the time, many have poorly centered comm plates, making them little more than a novelty hand buzzer. Also notorious for slinging their winds, a light brushing of thin epoxy, will keep them from suiciding. Many have been pilfered from the original dragsters. Still and all, a good blue drag arm is great drop in fun. The Specialty chassis also used a 12 tooth pinion, rather than the standard 14 for AFX. Keep in mind that because of the added gear, the magnet positions are reverse polarity from the 3 gear chassis. The rear axle is unique due to the tubbing of rear chassis.







Every half width rim, has a full width rim hiding inside. A good arbor is required. Otherwise a sharp blade is all it takes. Keep the speed down and let it cut. The half width rim provided lateral clearance on the rails for road going models that the dragsters didnt need. I personally use full width rim for either profile, for the most part, with no issue. Typically, I'll cut the full width lopro, if I actually need the 1/2 size.

Notably, wider is not always better. The relationship is not linear. At some point, power and traction zero out, so that any excess becomes un-needed drive train weight. A tidbit I got from Sriggs, of Yellow Jacket fame, and later discussed/supported in a Harden Creek wheel and tire expose.

Overall, I have a Specialty check list that developed over the years.

You'll likely see some heavier cleaving on the toe of the pick up shoes. More so on the dragster. As the shoe and hanger geometry is identical to a chassis with .474 rear tire, the arse up stance tips contact patches require attention right from the get go; for them to ski properly and provide a reasonable service life.

Take a moment and sight in where the armature gear meshes with the big idler. The big idler has a halo. If the armature gear is not pressed correctly (too high); the comm thrust forces the armature gear up into the halo, potentially canting the big idler on it's post. Also mandatory in my Specialty world, is gear lapping, both frontwards and backwards. The rouge need not be overly aggressive, medium automotive polishing compound is a good starting point. Finish with a gritty toothpaste. Water washable and minty fresh.


Check for excessive clearance between those jumbo rear wheels, and the chassis frame. Typically they dont get pressed all the way back on if someone has had them apart. Also be on the look out for the wobble

I never met a Specialty chassis that didnt benefit from one or all of the above.

For the casual hobbyist, and where roolz arent relevant, the best low buck modification is changing to an AFX 6 ohm armature in combination with the above checklist. Road racing snarling Specialties is good fun!

Good luck ,

Bill

[KensRedZed]

Hi Bill.

Wow! There's a wee bit of homework! But I like it! Just what I needed to hear to rebuild these old cars.

The Aztec dragster was a bit of a strange purchase. I bought enough cars that the nice gentleman threw the Aztec body in for free.

I later came back and bought more cars. The gentleman had a kitchen table loaded with old T-jet parts and tattered partial chassis. I found one that had the right shape to fit, if I removed the front axle. It clearly was made for another 4-gear car. But seemed to have the right rear wheels and tires. So he gave me the old worn out 4-gear chassis, free.

I pulled the front axle out and stuck it in the dragster. Now to make it right. The crown gear already needs replacing. The rear axle could not be more corroded or rusty. It looks like it was sitting out in an unheated garage/storage. This chassis will require some TLC before it runs. Yes, a new 6-ohm armature is in order! Not a 3-ohm? 

Thanks a million for the tips!