[Johnno]

Well a hard lesson has been learnt and that is to have a backup controller just for that precise reason.

I've had to send my existing controller away for possibly repair inspection, simply put the past three weeks I've been noticing that I've been turning the Sensitivity and Acceleration to 100% OFF and the Brake to 100% ON.

I've no idea what has been happening or gone wrong until this Wednesday when I had the settings as above and the cars still were not slowing under 100% braking, these cars I know they previously were braking, during this past Wednesday every class and subsequent heat my cars just deslotted even at low speeds, I've had to really concentrate just to complete one lap let along 200+ laps across all the classes, no wonder why I was buggered... 

Anyway moving on to what this post is about and that is Difalco Analog Controllers. I am still waiting for the TruSpeed Apex controller to arrive, is only three months overdue and now I am in need to find a new replacement for the TruSpeed and have a backup controller to boot.

Has anyone here had anything to do with Difalco controllers are all and can shed some experience to them.

Thanks
Johnno


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[Anthony B]

Johnno

back in the 90's when I was racing the 'eurosport' and big wing type cars, I used Difalco controllers. Worked very nicely. They were brought into South AFrica as kits and then built up by our local guru. I never had an issue with them at all. Funnily enough when I arrived in Belgium I found them far too sensitive for slot.it type cars - they needed heave amperage motors to work effectively. I also used to use them through a choke, to help with the sensitivity. I then changed to Professor motors controllers and then also bough an ACD PWM controller, and still use these today. I have never had direct contact with difalco so cannot help on that front. My advice would be to get and use a controller with an agent near you so when you hit issues there is someone close by to help.  International commuication via post, during and after covid, has just become abyssmal and I would avoid it like the plague to be honest. The lates upgraded slot.it controllers are good - are used at Bordo with high draw amperage motors and slot.it type motors as well. I would assume slot.it is available in Oz?

[chrisguyw]

Over the years I have tried a wide variety of controllers..(DS, 3rd Eye, Ruddock, Carsteen, Prof. MTR, etc.) and I have always come back to my Difalco(s) . They are reliable, easy to adjust, robust, and the Parma style handle fits my hand very well.

It is important to match the network board with the type of cars/tracks you are running on, and these easy plug in network boards, come in various ohm ratings to cover everything from HO to "open" wing car racing. (The network boards are also inexpensive)

The standard 1/32 DiFalco, comes with a 290 ohm network board, which is recommended for most of the 1/32 racing/tracks/motors that most of the folks here are likely to be involved with......and as mentioned, these "boards" come in a variety of ohm ratings to suit whatever you may wish to run.

Additionally, Jim (Difalco) is more than helpful should you have any questions, or require service.

Cheers
Chris Walker

PS Anthony, for a few bucks you can buy a couple of plug in boards to suit all your wing car, eurosport, Vintage, plastic cars 

[Johnno]

In reply to my own post, it turned out to be a broken brake wire in the controlle rplug, new wire and away we go. Still require a backup controller though.

[Kevan]

Difalco seem hugely popular over the pond in the USA and are very highly regarded amongst serious racers.

[munter]

The modern Difalco controllers are very popular down here(NZ??) in the centre of the slotracing world.
They came along after I had invested in my two Carsteens...which never caused me to feel I needed to upgrade.

Follow Chris W's advice and get another Difalco.

[Spiros]

Difalco seem hugely popular over the pond in the USA and are very highly regarded amongst serious racers.

Indeed so!
I have owned several, including one that has been upgraded repeatedly and without difficulty over a period of 10 years. Presently one is used strictly for 1/32 with either a 290 or a 191 (referred to as the 'west coast') network. Another is used for 1/24 employing networks from 78 to 162. Unbelievably reliable and easily repaired should the need arise, and Jim DiFalco has always been willing to assist with problems and/or repairs.
NOTE- the 'pro' brake adjustment pot is problematic for 1/32 use and I would recommend the standard item

[mickey thumbs]

I realize the OP was a while back, but I have been using a Difalco 302 for a few years now. Absolutely wonderful. The spring on the ball bearing mounted trigger is just right for me. The adjustable pots for sensitivity, braking and “traction control” are stable and reliable 
Maybe the best part of the deal is Jim Difalco’s customer service. I wish they were all this good!
I read that he has just released a new high-end 1/32 scale controller. Can’t remember the details, but I’m sure his website has the info.

[Kevan]

I've never had the chance to try a Difalco... maybe one day 

[BAracer]

Just for a change, I used my Truspeed MT-1 controller at a recent race evening, and it was a good reminder of the capabilities and characteristics of my Difalco, a DD302. In particular, the brakes were much stronger using the DD302. I'm still tinkering around with the traction control adjustment on the Difalco. The way I find it, it seems to act as a fine adjustment to the sensitivity setting rather than anything else. I understand about it reducing the voltage a fraction during the trigger stroke, but in my head, that sort of mirrors what the sensitivity knob does as well. 

Anyhow, it was also a good reminder that the Difalco is a much better controller than I am a driver!