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Ken, If you are thinking about the proxy drag racing. The first season which I won was with the Ford Thunderbolt. This car had one of the chassis that you have there with the single magnet. The car was straight out of the box. It was run in and fitted with silicone rear tyres, no other work was done.
I would suggest that you test run them and simply pick out the best that you have and give it a go.
As far as the Dino chassis is concerned I would suggest cleaning the chassis itself and the armature with some degreaser before reassembly. Be careful with the oil as TD said it only needs the tiniest amount.
(This post was last modified: 25th-Jan-21, 12:49 PM by
Mazda.)
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Seem to be two strings to this bow:
1) Getting the genuine TJet Dino chassis to run
2) Entering the Proxy drag race
As previously mentioned and Clive (Mazda) affirms, for the Proxy racing no work on the chassis required other than finding your best single mag' Tjet clone over 10'-11' of track
(This post was last modified: 25th-Jan-21, 01:01 PM by
Top Down.)
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Thank you very kindly, Mazda and Top Down.
My humble apologies Top Down. If I'm going to get started in HO. I might as well get all my questions out right away. No point in making a gaggle of threads over a few questions. I don't think the Dino is important enough that it requires its own thread.
Dino assembly after breakfast... or at least coffee.
(This post was last modified: 25th-Jan-21, 01:08 PM by
KensRedZed.)
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No need for apologies. Both are Tjet lineage but you'll probably find the AW version needs more work because of variable quality.
I'm with you on enjoying the tinkering. I just bought a job lot of ten 1/32 'spares or repairs' cars to play with. Mechanically I have all ten running already, five really well and five needing more finessing. Then there's the bodywork of course .....
(This post was last modified: 25th-Jan-21, 04:41 PM by
Top Down.)
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10 new toys to tinker with? Nice going TD. Congrats!
Mazda. The wheels and tires on the yellow Stingray are all the same size. My photo looks a bit off because of the macro setting. Oops.
I did some homework. It came with wide wheels and tires on all 4-corners out of the box. A very odd car indeed.
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Just to clarify one detail please. Do I need to change the spring style brushes to braids to enter the proxy?
Thanks a million!
Ken
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Over to Woodcote on this one. I think he recommends braids although some cars seemed to run OK on the standard pickups.
However, if following the recommendation you don't replace the standard pickups, you add braid to them soldering a very short leading edge of the braid to the tip of the stock pickup, with the rest trailing free as it does in 1/32 scale.
I think if you entered a car on standard pickups but Andy thought it would run better with added braid he would do that for you. He certainly did with some of the Team Chesterfield cars.
(This post was last modified: 26th-Jan-21, 05:24 AM by
Top Down.)
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P.S. I have asked Andy to pop in here when he has a moment though. Best to get advice straight from the source rather than using my interpretation of things.
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Thank you very kindly, TD. I was going to send Andy a PM but he has it turned off.
The vintage Ferrari Dino now runs after a serious clean up. Thank you for your help.
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His PM may be turned off but he may not have done it. Mine had been on from the outset but I found out in the last couple of weeks that it was off, after someone had been trying to contact me via PM. I'm guessing there was some sort of s/w update that did that?
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