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Yup, that's it.
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Cheers
After I wrote it down, it sort of made sense and I could see all the problems with my other options.
Anyway, here is the body with three coats of Peugeot Bianco White...
White paint on a white primer,..probably not a great learning combination, but equally it probably hides all the imperfections!
And for the final coat, I put on a rubber glove to avoid what I now call "white hand syndrome" (or whatever colour you are using...)
So now I'm thinking that I need to leave it for four days and will apply the decals and clear coats on Sunday.
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(4th-Aug-21, 07:09 PM)BARacer Wrote: Cheers
So now I'm thinking that I need to leave it for four days and will apply the decals and clear coats on Sunday.
If you are using waterslide decals, wait a couple of days before clearcoating.....any moisture under the decal will "bubble" the decal when the clearcoat is applied........and,.........some clearcoats are quite "hot",....so is highly advisable to apply the clear in a series of mist coats (20 mins between coats).
cheers
Chris Walker
(This post was last modified: 4th-Aug-21, 10:47 PM by
chrisguyw.)
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Letting it dry before doing the next task is obvious when you think about it.
I'm not quite thinking like a scratch builder yet!
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But at least I look like one...a bad one!
When should I clear coat my nail?
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(This post was last modified: 5th-Aug-21, 07:39 AM by
BAracer.)
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Practiced placing decals on this SRC Chrono 205. Seems strange to apply half in the factory and leave half for the slotter to do...
Anyhow, I've done some now, so feel more prepared to face the full car application on the 208.
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What are you clear coating with ?
It would pay to test a small area/decal that you could afford to lose with the clear coat first, just in case there is a reaction ...
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I have some Tamiya TS-13 spray, and some Alclad II Klear Kote Gloss, Klear Kote Semi-Gloss and Aqua Gloss liquids.
For the fully built up yellow 205 body, where I just added numbers, I thought I would only need to dab some Klear Kote with a brush on the items I added.
For the 208 I was planning to use the Tamiya spray all over, in three mist coats.
This is all new to me so please feel free to offer advice, however basic!
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(This post was last modified: 7th-Aug-21, 08:17 AM by
BAracer.)
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Blimey, this is stressful! I thought model making was meant to be relaxing!
First decal...
2hrs later, and it's time for a cuppa to relax my nerves!
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Jeremy, If you run into issues getting the decals to conform to compound curves/creases/shut lines etc.,...........once you have the decal positioned and blotted, apply a thin coat of Micro Sol, and use a hair dryer with medium heat/medium air pressure to "melt" the decal. It will conform to compound curves and shut lines etc., and will look like it was painted on. modellers have been using this technique for eons with zero issues/great results.
Do not however touch the decal while you are "melting" it, nor for a few hours afterwards.
Cheers
Chris Walker
(This post was last modified: 7th-Aug-21, 08:32 PM by
chrisguyw.)