[woodcote]

Maybe a systematic testing of all possibilities is required?

1. Red to red / Black to black / White to white
   
2. R-r / B-w / W-b
   
3. R-b / B-w / W-r
   
4. R-b / B-r / W-w
   
5. R-w / B-b / W-r
   
6. R-w / B-r / W-b
   

If none of those work, it's something else!

[BAracer]

Something else...

   

[BAracer]

Managed to get some life signs out of the SCP-2...

With the following two wire arrangement, the 'max/diagnostics' light glows green and then turns red when I pull full trigger. Car does not move.

- Red SCP lead to Grey Fly lead, and the yellow SCP to Red Fly lead


With the following two wire arrangement, the 'max/diagnostics' light glows green and the car creeps round the circuit at 1/4 speed. Pulling trigger makes no difference.

- Yellow SCP to black Fly, Red SCP to Grey Fly
- Yellow SCP to Black Fly, Yellow SCP to Red Fly



Off to find the user manual.

[BAracer]

Or how about one of these from Truspeed...

   

3.5mm Stereo Jack Plug for Scalextric and Ninco analogue racing.
 
Instead of the awkward and difficult solder connections inside the usual 3.5mm jack plugs, this convenient screw connection system makes it easy to fit the plug to your controller. 

• Wiring
  

• L   Brake                                Green/Yellow       (Red)
  
• R   Output to the track             Blue                    (Black)
  
• Earth   Power                          Brown                (White) 
  
  

[BAracer]

To do some fault finding, unplug from the scalextric power base and rig your SCP2 up like this (pic directly from the SCP2 PDF)
You can use a pp3 9v battery. 

   

I'm going back to basics...I have ordered the cables to recreate the SCP-2 circuit diagram utilising the power supply I got for Xmas.

[BAracer]

Right...fresh start! I have removed the Scalextric powerbase from the track, and are now powering the rails from my 12v power supply.

Woodcote has established that Scalextric powerbase are "Common positive (negative wiring)", so I have used this as a reference for this exercise.

Slot-it analogue cartridge manual states that for "common positive (negative wiring)": -

- Jumper J1 is left open (I have interpreted that as removing the bit that slides along the two contacts)
 
- the following wiring arrangement should be followed
   



The result of this is that when I switch the power supply on, full power is going to the track regardless of trigger position.



I think I might ask Slot.it for help...

[BAracer]

And for completeness, when I re-configure it for Common ground (positive wiring) and put the J1 jumper back in...

   

Zero power to the track regardless of trigger position.

[Nonfractal]

"I think I might ask Slot.it for help..."
Yes, I think so...

Alan

[BAracer]

The slight good news with this is that in the "Common positive (negative wiring)" configuration, the LED that indicates the trigger in fully closed (green) or fully open (red), was working, so the trigger position is being recognised.

[DPJ]

Have you followed these instructions?
   

It sounds like you have the CM knob turned all the way counter-clockwise, or close to it.