[BAracer]

I have a Truespeed controller for Scalextric SSD use, and bought a SCP-2 about 6 months ago for oXigen use (but yet to take it out of the box!). 
  
I have belatedly discovered the need for an analogue controller. After undertaking a quick cost/benefit analysis, I have gone down the slot.it Home Use analogue module route for the SCP-2 on the basis that there will be some common features between both modes and as such, it will be a means of forcing me to get to learn the subtleties of all the adjustments. I also couldn't think of any time when I would need to change modules at an event, so that would not be a compromise for the modular approach. And the SCP-2 seems to be well regarded and on a par with the Truespeed analogue offering (MT-1?), which I could always move onto at a later date.

Santa also has a '3 banana plugs into a jack plug' converter for me in the hope that it will allow me to use the SCP-2 in analogue mode by just plugging it into my basic Scalextric analogue 'Sport' powerbase.

Let the controller geek in me out!

[BAracer]

Reading the Manual, it seems that the four main dials on the SCP-2 behave in exactly the same way in either analogue or oXigen mode.

I had assumed they might be similar, but identical is better!

[Nonfractal]

I chose the SCP2 for the same reason. 
I knew I was heading toward slot.IT Oxigen endurance events so SCP2 was the default for that.
At the same time, our club lifted the prohibition on electronic controllers. 

I use the Scp2 for analogue with the "metal" cartridge, not that I need that level of current handling, but that i also have my eye on BSCRA racing in the future and The metal cartridge has the current handling for that. 

SCP has many faults but is an all rounder that is hard to match. 
Until another company produces a controller with SCP cartridge compatibility, it will be my default.

The best features of SCP? Reliability , intelligent braking.
The worst? Right handed design, cant be adjusted by touch only, too ugly to love.

Alan

[BAracer]

Having read the manual a couple of times, for me, it's these two diagrams that cut through all the complexity associated with describing what each of the knobs are for...

   

   

And for completeness...

   

With the Power Trim knob modifying the transition between the three stages of the first diagram.

[BAracer]

Or to put it back into words...the dials allow you to focus the trigger on the range of corner speeds between the slowest and fastest corners on a circuit. So:-

0% trigger: car ststionary

1% trigger: MS (Minimum Speed) is the speed you want to go round the slowest corner on the circuit.

99% trigger: CM (Curve/Max) is the speed you want to go round the fastest corner on the circuit.

100% trigger: car full speed.

[Nonfractal]

It's all too easy to get buried in technical detail in the SCP that you will be hard pressed to remember and implement on a race night. 

I find it easier to think of the controls in terms of old analogue resistor controllers and how they feel. 

For the MinSpd control, Think of it as analogous to the wire wound resistor options.
Extreme left feels like a 50 ohm resistor controller. 
Sweeping the control to the right makes the controller feel more and more like progressively lower resistances. 

The Curvemax might be useful if you are running on an 18volt track, but at sensible voltages (12  to 14) i find that it is always best cranked all the way to the right. 

I have fixed starting settings for several motors, the main difference being s-can and long can. I then make minor adjustments these as the race night progresses. 

Hope this helps. 
Alan W

[BAracer]

Thanks Alan

Once I unwrap it on Christmas day, I will get started on the 'feel' process.

[BAracer]

   

[BAracer]

   

[BAracer]

Ok...so set up my track for the first time in four months. The truspeed controller works a treat on my SSD cars. However, when I disconnect the digital powerbase and fire up the analogue base in the picture above, the following happens...

When I use the original controller, the analogue car drives very slowly round the track.

When I plug in the scp-2, the red light on the base goes out after about 10 seconds, and only comes back on when I unplug the controller. If I try and run a car in those first 10 seconds, it doesn't move.

Reading the scp instructions, there is mention of 'common ground (positive wiring) track' and 'common positive (negative wiring) track' and jumper configuration in the cartridge. All I have done is plugged it in and tried to play, using a Ninco 3 into 1 cable converter as in the picture above. It says it can be used for Scalextric.

Any ideas anyone?