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Any no-mag Legends racers out there able to tell me where to add weight please?

I have no opportunity/facility to track test between meetings. 

Cars are stock, on stock but trued (Tyre Razor) wheels and tyres, run as a Club IROC class. 

I am limited to 5 and 10gm self adhesive 1:1 car wheel weights so I'm thinking a single 5gm weight as central as possible? Being rectangular should the weight run inline, or across the chassis? Transverse and nearer the rear for improved traction, or nearer the front to load the guide?

Any thoughts?

(We have used them successfully without weight but general concensus seems to be try adding weight.)

[Mitch58]

I just hosted these cars. I suggest you keep playing around with the amount and placement until you find what works best on the track you are racing on.
  Per spec these cars ran the same motor so they were all pretty close to the same speed. It was the handling that made to difference. While all the cars drove well on my routed track, the top half dozen or so drove like Slot It or NSRs, smooth and quiet they felt like you could go as deep into a turn as you wanted.
  I would have loved to have taken them apart for a peek but as a host I don't take them apart unless something needs fixing.

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P.S. running them on Scalextric Sport track - and playing around with  placement and amount of weight isn't an option. I either don't bother at all, or do a best guess that's the same on every car. Whether it's the  right amount or wrongly placed it'd have to be the same for everyone! As mentioned, I have no facility to experiment or track test before the event.

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Did the rules specify stock guides? If not, did you notice what the top half a dozen cars were using - and did you measure front tyre diameters on those to see if they'd been drastically reduced at all please?

Ours are only skimmed enough to true them, not to make them a much lower profile.

[CMOTD]

Bearing in mind that mine run on a wooden track, I have never found the need to add any weight. They handle just fine without. There is a slight tendency to lift the nose a bit under hard acceleration, although never enough for the braids to lose contact or de-slot, so a bit of weight near the front end might be advantageous.

One thing I have found is that they do handle better at 12v than my usual 13.8v, the motor is a bit peaky and the lower voltage just tames it down a bit and makes them more predictable round the twisty bits.

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OK, thanks. An answer I'd hoped for 

We run at a MAX. of 12v but usually nearer 11.5 - 11.8 so will continue without added weight 

It's never been a problem, so why change?

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One issue we HAVE come across is the occasional bounce off the guide flag stop after some over ambitious cornering speeds, if you know what I mean? We VERY rarely have ANY deslots though. 

They're nice stable and predictable cars to drive apart from that 'Tank slapping effect'.

Any cure other than slowing down a tad?

[Savage GT]

I put a bit of weight (around 7.5 grams) on the hatch (I usually remove the dpr wiring and wire direct, so its a convenient space as well as helping to balance the car). 
I only have a fixed 13.8v PS but replace the stock motors with 16k SRC ones. I find as these work great for the legends at that voltage.