Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

TRANS AM -Revell 60's

A few years ago - I bought a coule of Cox Cheetah's and these 3 cars came along.

Up until this weekend when I took all my Revell 'stuff' out to assess what I have (yes I do forget what I have stashed away Rofl  ) I saw these again. I really didnt have a good opinion of them. Clunky came to mind. They are made of polypropalene plastic and had been painted and decalled - by a youngster I guess back in the day. Like we all did Cool

I was watching TV friday night and decided on the spur of the moment (as my Select 2D is still trying to 'unyellow' in the sun and my 'lexan' bodies are on the back burner), to clean up the cars. My trusty thumbnail and a toothpick came into play.


I had already cleaned up the Camaro in this pic, but you can see the other 2 as they arrived.

Why do I say clunky - look at the ride height and the amount of the chassis below the body line:


SO my first job on this car was to see if I could lover the ride height. Discarded the original tyre, and they have a 24mm OD. As I now have a large stock of tyres, (refer my tyre post), I had made some lower profile tyres from original Revell/Monogram tyres, as well as normal tinner type and the wider one as well.

I chopped off around 3-4mm of the chassis posts, and added the smaller tyres. Not that much smaller as The rear bearing are raised up in the chassis as the standard Mabuchi is huge, and thus track clearance becomes an issue. reas arre 22mm and fronts are 20 mm.

I had to do some judicious grinding of the driver deck to get the rear tyres cleared and free to move.

This is the view now:


I am now really liking these cars. Bigsmile  I then cleaned up the Mustang and the Cougar.



I then did the re-seating of chassis and tyres:



Like I said - I am now really liking these cars. I will stay with the original chassis/motors for the moment. I do have a later aluminium Revell chassis with the screw holes that would allow fitment to the body, and change to 16d type motors.

Here is the question - is it possible to paint these cars and for it to stick?  I have painted one of the Scalextric formula junior cars, where the paint has stuck, but has not been raced. I tend to think these will see racing action. Any help appreciated.
If anyone out there has some Revell ladder chassis they want to move on/sell - please let me know.

PS I do have all the chrome and glass work in good orrder.
[+] 2 members Like Anthony B's post

Hi Anthony,

Nice trio of cars. They look way better since you've cleaned them up.  Thumbup

Wet sanding the entire body with 3000-grit paper helps prevent flaking.

Keeping the paint layers down to a minimum helps prevent chipping.

Battle scars are a part of racing.  Checkeredflag
[+] 1 member Likes KensRedZed's post

Hi Anthony, Painting polypropylene has always been a bit of a gamble, but see if you can find some Krylon "Fusion" rattle cans...........these are formulated for painting hard to paint plastics (plastic lawn chairs/pots  etc.), and, do stick quite well.

It has been mentioned above to sand with some coarse(ish) paper, but ,I would try to avoid this as polypropylene does not "Cut" well, is more likely to "Shred", leaving little strings all over the place.............just give the surface a good clean with Isopropyl.

Chris Walker
[+] 2 members Like chrisguyw's post

I will agree that if you use coarse (ish) sand paper and apply too much pressure. Polypropylene will leave strings.

Anthony. My humble apologies for trying to help. Please ignore what I said. It's best I no longer comment on these things. Take care folks.   Wavegreen
[+] 1 member Likes KensRedZed's post

Ken - ABSOLUTELY NOT -Keep on keeping on commenting. You geneate discussion which we need desperately. This is how we all learn from those that know from others experience of which Chris is the master.

I have in the interim - given 2 of the bodies - 4 or 5 dustings of a car paint primer. Will look at its 'stickability on the underside of the body once it has dried properly.
I too have has experience with scratch marks when you sand a polypropalene body.

Let see how it goes - will report back!!
[+] 1 member Likes Anthony B's post

I In Nope nope - did a scratch test - came straight off ----- back to drawing board!!!


Thinking about it - not back to drawing board - I thing I will paint them none the less - they simply might not get all that usage ;)

One issue I see coming up - the COugar is red and SIlver - how do you mask this without pulling off the paint!! Idea  ?

My thought is sprray base red and then hand paint bonnet and roof silver??

You can buy aerosols of plastic primer for car bumpers over here. If it sticks to car bumpers maybe it will stick to polypropylene as well.

I just tried a websearch for painting polypropylene and there are plenty of youtube videos which might help.
[+] 1 member Likes autoavia's post

(5th-Apr-21, 09:32 AM)Anthony B Wrote:  One issue I see coming up - the COugar is red and SIlver - how do you mask this without pulling off the paint!! Idea  ?

My thought is sprray base red and then hand paint bonnet and roof silver??

Hi Anthony, While I have not tried every paint type on polypropylene, I have tried many, and to date I have not found anything I would be comfortable masking.........I have not tried the plastic 1:1 car bumper stuff that Autoavia mentions above, may well be worth a test.

Chris Walker
[+] 1 member Likes chrisguyw's post

If you can't source it locally Amazon Belgium has various plastic primers. I think some of them are designed to chemically etch the plastic so it might pay to be careful.
As far as I am aware they use standard body paints on real cars once they have applied the plastic primer so if the primer adheres properly you should be able to get away with masking the two colour top coat.  - Good luck with whatever you decide to try.

Possibly Related Threads...
Thread / Author Replies Views Last Post
Last Post by Anthony B
13th-Oct-20, 08:44 AM

Forum Jump:

Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)