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Amato 3DP chassis for Scalextric McLaren F1 GTR

I loved the look of the Scalextric short tail GTR, but unfortunately that is where my love ended !
Apart from the usual Scalextric axle slop and guide slop, the chassis is just not beefy enough around the axle/motor area, and as a result on wood once it has some grippy tyres on, it hops, chatters, and ties itself in knots.
I could have spent time bracing the chassis and sorting the guide, but what I really fancied was a proper chassis, but no one made one that I could find.
Luckily, Angelo of Amato Slot Car Design was amenable to my proposition to make one.

The chassis is flat and designed for the body to sit on it (its thin enough at the edges that it is unobtrusive this way).
He even managed to squeeze in a diffuser detail and fitment of the stock lights, not an easy task when the pod fiittings eat into the little space left at the rear of the tail on this car !

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As is standard on most of his designs, we also have grub screw adjustable height for the front axle.

I opted to retain the wheels and motor from the donor, and fit the lighting.

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Everything went together beautifully.

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But as I wanted more body rock, I decided to trim down the edges and rear mounting post a tiny bit to sit inside the body.

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I replaced the Scalextric screws with Sloting Plus smooth shanked body screws, and the axles with items. I used a Mitos 8 tooth plastic pinion mated to an All Slot Car 25 tooth crown gear. 
I used Slot.It G25 tyres on the rear and rummaged through my tyres to find suitable fronts (the stock ones were a bit loose fitting on the rims for my liking, and needed to be a fraction smaller to allow body rock).

I think the car now sits perfectly on the track, and of course it handles like it should on wood  Rofl

Thank you Angelo, for yet another wonderful chassis  Thumbup

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[+] 4 members Like Savage GT's post

It is a great looking car.

How did you fix the wheels to the axles?

I love puttering with gears

I twisted the wheels about 1/8 a turn to loosen from the Scalextric knurling, then pulled off straight.
This allows the fronts to be an interference fit on the axles.
For the rear I employed my new found tool in addition to the interference fit... UV activated glue. Or more precisely resin.
I put a drop on and smeared round where the wheel meets the axle with a cocktail stick then set the UV on it.
I have no idea how it will hold up long term, but after 20 or so test laps each, its still OK  Bigsmile
[+] 2 members Like Savage GT's post

Excellent write-up and photos (as always!)  Thumbup

[+] 1 member Likes Angelo Amato's post

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