[Dr_C2]

Now that Scalextric has released a second Land Rover (the poppy red version) there is an exciting opportunity to create a digital racing pair. One green and one red :)

   

The digitisation looks straight forward except for one detail - the high chassis clearance and hence the requirement for careful positioning of the Infra-Red LED.

I have no doubt there are many possible solutions - I plan to share mine over the next few posts.

The motivation here is to see two of these Land Rovers racing on a digital track, changing lanes, pitting etc etc and all with the ultimate objective… to be first to cross the finish line.

C

[KensRedZed]

My money is on the Land Rover to take the checkered flag! 

Did I win anything?

[Dr_C2]

ha ha, yes, but which one? green or red?

c

[KensRedZed]

Red and green are the colours that colour-blind people often have trouble with.

They would likely say the "red/green" one would win. 

[Dr_C2]

First, I drilled two 1mm holes in the lowest point of the chassis as shown. This is to be followed by some hot glue to hold the 3mm LED in place and then some 14 AWG silicone wire attached from the interior side. I chose silicone wire to protect the insulation from heat from the motor which is very close.

   

   

[Dr_C2]

Both Land Rovers are now fully prep’d ready for fitment of the digital decoders.

1/ dual 1mm holes drilled in both chassis.
2/ IR LEDs fitted and secured with black hot glue.
3/ LED wiring fitted under the motor, emerging on the port side.
4/ yellow/green silicone wiring fitted at pick-up.
5/ red/black silicone wiring fitted to motor while retaining the 100nF noise suppression capacitor.

Next step will be to install a digital decoder into each car. This could be a new style C8516 with black casing and four pin socket removed. In my case I will use my slightly smaller decoders which also include lighting circuits for brake lights.

I’m looking forward to some digital racing with this unlikely pair whose classic design goes back to the late 1940’s.

c

[woodingboys]

How did they do Dr C and how are you doing?
I am looking at using the Sureguide to place the led ahead of the blade. Can you remind me if this causes a problem on the standard out of the box ARC Pro? I seem to recall that it needed to see the blade before the sensor when originally shipped, but maybe that has changed or I am still relying on your modified method for my Sureguide blades?

[Dr_C2]

Hi Paul,

Yes - the sureguides would be a nice alternative to my approach where I placed the IR LEDs ‘below’ the chassis to reduce the gap between LED and track surface.

The sureguides will be fine for ARC PRO lap counting with any of the following three options:

1/ The one-off prototype track sensors we used on your Havenwood track.

2/ Any ARC PRO which has the grey wire mod applied.

3/ The upgraded track sensors fitted into your Goodwood track which effectively auto-apply the grey wire mod using additional in-circuit switching transistors.

In the above three cases all should be good for Land Rovers or any other slot cars which use surechange guides :)

C

[woodingboys]

   

Lets see how these go on Havenwood :-)