(27th-May-24, 02:40 PM)Tibbs Wrote: Hi Guys,
can you use a inline pinion with a sidewinder Crown gear?
I'm planning a couple of scratch build sidewinder's and don't know if there is a difference or not.
I'm assuming there must be something otherwise why would they sell them as they do.
Cheers
Tony
Hello Tony,.......I forgot to mention this in my previous post,......from a manufacturing and utility perspective, there is no such thing as an "inline"/"Sidewinder"/"Anglewinder" pinion,.......just a bunch of pinions with different diameters to fit the various motor pods used in the modern "plastic" car world.
What are known as "Inline" pinions, are all 5.5mm in diameter,.......and are this diameter to work with plastic car manufacturers "Crowns" (Inline) in order that the protruding motor shaft acts as centering device as its runs in the "trough" of the Crown gear, maintaining an acceptable mesh.
If you cut the motor shaft flush with the end of the pinion, you can use any dia. of pinion you wish to obtain the gear ratio you wish, based on you motor and track specifics.
So for those wishing to replace the pinion in their "Inline" cars, manufacturers calling these pinions "Inline", takes the guesswork out of the equation for those less mechanically inclined

.,.........but for no other reason is this dia, of pinion specific to an inline.
As an aside, cutting the motor shaft level with the pinion is a good move on an inline car,.......as on right hand corners, as the axle shifts laterally, and the motor shaft touches the wall of the Crown trough,....it is spinning in the opposite direction to the Crown,.....this greatly increase friction/wear,....and is the major cause of metal "dust" that many folks complain of.
If you do cut the motor shaft, yo will need to restrict the lateral movement of the axle by using spacers, and then set the lateral Crown position to achieve lash.
"Sidewinder" pinions are generally 6.5mm in dia. (to mesh with 18.0mm Spurs in a Slot-it pod), but again, there is absolutely nothing special/different about them,..........just another case of making it somewhat idiot proof for the user.
Another aside,.......in days gone by,......gear mesh was either by moving the Crown (on inlines) laterally, or by moving the motor fore/aft (Sidewinders) to achieve mesh/lash..........todays plastic car manufacturers have chosen to either use troughs in their Crowns (inlines), and , or ,to fix the motor positions in SW/AW motor configurations, which has required them to bugger around with tooth counts on a fixed dia. Spur in order to offer gear ratio variations,.......this works to a point, but, changing the tooth count on a fixed dia. gear does alter its pitch, and therefore does have limitations.
Here is one of those conversion thingies to determine the ideal tooth count for any .5 metric module (all the popular 1/32 manufacturers) pinions/Spurs.
1/ Take the gear dia. and multiply by 2
2/ Subtract 2
EG.,..........a 6.5mm pinion
6.5 x 2 = 13 - 2 = 11,.............a perfect tooth count for a .5 module pitch 6.5 mm pinion is 11.
This same calculation can be used for all dia. pinions/Spurs.
In general, you can deviate about 1 tooth either way on a pinion and 2/3 on a spur, and get a very good mesh,....any more and the tooth shape/spacing etc. change so much that the pitch also changes resulting in very poor mesh/noise/friction/wear.
As long as you are using modern day pinions/Crowns/Spurs,....all metric .5 module pitch (which they all are) you can mix match both diameters and Brands without issue.
Cheers
Chris Walker