[JMay]

Back on 'track' with the text disappearing, the layer above the text may have collapsed into it due to the nozzle cooling fan switching on at too high a layer setting or it lack puff.

Cheers
            John

P.S. You can now make as many train chassis' as you like, along with buildings, signals, gantries, platforms etc etc etc....

[Kevan]

The text is probably still there sealed in with supports.

[Savage GT]

'levelling' depends on your printer, Prusa's auto level before every print.

I could do that myself before printing, this machine has an auto level feature.
I assumed once set all good for a while 
Presumably that can be put in the G code ? (he says only having seen a video of someone doing something else in the G code) 

[Kevan]

I've never ventured into the G-code...what can go wrong 

[Savage GT]

Apparently type G29 under G28 = Job done, will see at next print 

How to Enable Auto Bed Leveling in Cura? (BLTouch, EZABL) - 3D Print Beast

I am thinking the Creality splicer is a skinned version of Cura, they look and function very similar.

[MrFlippant]

"Flexible Build Plate" is a pretty loose term in the industry. On an Ender, that usually means some kind of plasticy sheet with a weak magnetic attachment to the bed. These are the kinds that give flexi plates a bad name, and it's no wonder people who have them prefer to use glass.

On a Prusa, it's a sheet of spring steel, with PEI (aka Ultem) adhered to both sides with an industrial grade adhesive. These are magnetically held to the Prusa heated bed with about 20 meodymium magnets embedded in the bed. It is SOLID, and does not require any additives for most common materials to hold well. Removing the print is a matter of removing the plate itself, and then flexing (like a saw blade) the sheet one direction, and then the other. Depending on the material printed and the type of sheet, the print will release itself after the bed and print have cooled down.

The closest thing to a Prusa type sheet for other printers is that as offered by Wham-Bam Systems for a variety of printers. Although they use a sheet magnet, it's thicker, and therefore stronger, than what Enders usually come with. The WhamBam plate is spring steel, and you can get various polymer sheets for it, like the Prusa ones, or even print right on the spring steel itself.

I have never, nor will I ever, use a dangerous implement to remove prints from any printer I own. As such, I didn't even use my resin printer until I got WhamBam sheets for it.

[chappyman66]

The loco chassis looks like it will work.  Congratulations!

[Savage GT]

"Flexible Build Plate" is a pretty loose term in the industry. On an Ender, that usually means some kind of plasticy sheet with a weak magnetic attachment to the bed. These are the kinds that give flexi plates a bad name, and it's no wonder people who have them prefer to use glass.

Nope, its a coated sprung steel sheet with a damn good magnetic attachment on mine 
On another note, printer now checks bed level before every print 

[Kevan]

I have never, nor will I ever, use a dangerous implement to remove prints from any printer I own. As such, I didn't even use my resin printer until I got WhamBam sheets for it.

Implements are only dangerous when used flippantly 

(that's got to be my post of the year   )

[MrFlippant]

(scrolled back up to refresh my memory)

So, nice spring steel sheet, but it looks to be textured? I've never had much luck with PLA on a textured plate. It's great for PETG and ABS and TPU, but not so much PLA. I'd highly recommend getting a smooth PEI sheet to complement your textured one. I use that pretty much exclusively for PLA, and with the right first layer offset, it stays stuck and prints great.

The text will have disappeared easily on a textured plate, not only because the texture, but also because a good first layer on a textured plate tends to need more squish than on a smooth surface. As such, the following layers will also squish into the lettering. If it's only a single layer of lettering, it's pretty much going to disappear. On a smooth sheet, the lettering will be more visible, but the second layer will usually be in the opposite direction, so the lettering doesn't disappear, but gets a line pattern inside. :)

Anyway, seems a good printer. :)