[Savage GT]

My goal with these two was to retain as much as possible of the original cars, but, as is my way, they resemble Triggers Broom in originality now !
I wanted to get them to sit lower, and be a reasonable handling pair to race one another.

First I tried some slightly lower profile tyres on the stock wheels, that would net me a small reduction in height, so we were on the way.
Then some 1mm offset bearings to raise the axles up, this meant removing the wheels from the stock knurled axles.
I have done this a few times on Scalextric cars with good results, but it didn't work this time, the axles are a little smaller so they didn't go straight onto a 3/32 axle as a nice interference fit .. in fact it split my hub.
so the next one I tried opening the hole out with a 3/32 drill bit, but it resulted in it being off centre.
Damn, so it looked like I was going to have to get some aloy wheels, but with tight clearances I had to look away from my usual fare.
Luckily I found Mitoos do some nice wire wheels that are pretty narrow and will take The Wasp tyres I had in mind.
A quick google found that although the E types usually raced with steel wheels, occasionally some used the spoked wheels, so that was good enough for me 

Chassis was trimmed, screw holes enlarged, and SRP 16k motor installed along with 8/26 Slot.it gearing. The stock guide was OK at around 7.5mm deep so was retained and braided with NSR ultra thin.
In order to balance the front motor, I managed to squeeze 5g of lead in the magnet pocket, and another 4.3 g under the propshaft.
The motor did move in place, so hotglue was deployed to fix it solid.
All bearings were fixed in place with a dab of UV Resin.

   

I had to grind away some of the chassis crown gear "bubble" as this was dragging on the track with the offset bearings and smaller tyres.

   

The body post sat in little cups in the chassis, so was interfering with float, so I ground the posts flush with the bumper fixings.

   

   

This was as much as I could lower everything without attacking the interior which I didn't want to do as its a nice detailed interior.
Not as low as I wanted, but a subtle improvement IMO. The blue car is stock, the red modified. The exhaust pipes show the difference in height best.

   

They will still tip if you overdrive the tight corners, but with a narrow car and a not especially light bodyshell, this is to be expected.
I don't really want to add more weight so I think these are done.
Another racing pair is added to my fleet 

   

[rallyhub]

Great report.
Perhaps a sprung guide will keep the car in the slot longer when driving at the limit on two wheels.
It works on my rally cars.

Hub

[KensRedZed]

Beautiful pair of cars!

Don't add more weight. Removing weight from the back of a narrow car allows the rear of the car to slide instead of dig in and flip. Too much traction on the rear tires makes a car roll out.

[Savage GT]

Thanks gents.

@rallyhub    Generally sprung guides are detrimental on my track, the only cars I have retained them on is the Revoslots as their chassis weight seems to negate any bad effects.
Maybe being front motored that could be worth investigating.

@ KensRedZed    Thanks for the tip, I haven't really messed with tuning front motored cars before, and just assumed I needed weight at the back to counter the weight up front and give me traction and braking. As over half the weight I added is in the little magnet hatch underneath, I can play about with that fairly easily.

[Mitch58]

I've done similar with both Revell and Ninco. I found the Ninco a bit more "tunable".  On this one I opted for a 3D podded chassis, it is very drivable. 

As for racing, a wider car always has an advantage, But then, they don't all have to be for racing.

[Nonfractal]

Not pretty cars anymore but they run so much better in "full mod" mode
I use these for Goodwood Green class at LSC Wood Green London.
56mm max axle width. 
 
   https://ibb.co/album/7QPtX0 

The e type streamliner runs much better than the Cobra daytona.

Alan