[autoavia]

I dropped my Monogram Kingcobra early this year and smashed the body. Finally got a new one finshed and added some of ChrisW's chassis mods as well which I hope will stop it being quite so wayward at times.

   

   

[Gordon Steadman]

Very nice!

However, it's a slot racing car and it' s supposed to look like this. Why did you repair it?
   

[autoavia]

If we combined the front of yours with the back of my old body we could have built a Kingcobra banger racer.

[BAracer]

Nice slot car insurance scam!

[KensRedZed]

Oh my goodness.

Quickly! Call the slot car emergency number on your 1/32 phone! 

Nice recovery Autoavia. 

I love my Cooper/Cobra too.

[Anthony B]

Great build Tony!!!

I have one in blue and the GT King cobra.

Ohhh and I got an original Lancer 1/24th for Christmas that I will try to get the paint for tomorrow as it needs Polycarbonate paint.....

[Anthony B]

   

[chrisguyw]

Good job Tony  .............these chassis do benefit from a little bracing.

I can't see from you pic., but one of the weaker parts of the chassis is the rear motor mount......it typically flexes causing mesh issues. and coupled with the fact that the front motor bracket does not do a marvellous job, a rear motor bracket brace is a very worthwhile mod.

An easy effective mod for the front bracket is to place a small blob of ShoeGoo/E 6000 around the front blind motor bushing and the bracket bushing hole.....being a "blind" bushing there is no fear of getting of the glue into the bushing itself......this will help secure the motor and will reduce vibrations/noise.

Cheers
Chris Walker

Here is the simple mod for the rear motor bracket,..........not sure by the pic. if you did this.

[autoavia]

Chris - I did use your bracing method for the rear motor bracket but I don't think I got the 90 degree braces between the axle brackets and the rear of the chassis positioned quite right so the brace prevented the rear motor bracket from locating in the right place and this moved the motor forward which then fouled on the interior so the body didn't fit. 
Couldn't trim any more off the interior so I lifted the motor mount brace a little which didn't leave enough room for the plastic collar on the endbell to pass through the motor mount so in the end I cut a hole in the centre of the brace which has obviously weakened it but it is better then nothing.
The ideal solution would have been to go back to square one and move the 90 degree braces on the chassis but having worked on this on and off since April I just couldn't face doing that so I will test the car and if the motor mount flexes too much I will strip it all down again.

[chrisguyw]

Hi Tony, what thickness wire did you use??............some .047 or. 055 is more than enough.

Without starting again, could you not just trim/notch  the ends of the motor bracket piece a touch to clear the axle upright supports ??.........oops, I just took another look at your chassis, and this suggestion is not the answer........please disregard 

Moving on,........I used some .047 wire on both the rear of the chassis and the base of the motor bracket, and did not have issues,...that said this chassis is under a Lola Gt, which may have a more raised, or, further forward interior plate. With both braces added, and the resulting position of the rear motor bracket, I did not have any clearance/fit issues, at the can end of the motor.

Cheers
Chris Walker`