[KensRedZed]

Anthony, thank you very kindly.

[chrisguyw]

Very cool collection of cars, Anthony.

Are the chassis on the Matich, Lotus 30, and King Cobra made of white metal, or aluminum?

Thanks,
Ken

Hi Ken, The early Dynamic chassis bits  (all of Anthonys' cars) were cast aluminum, and in the mid 60's there were probably more Dynamic build up chassis' running around the commercial and club tracks than anything else combined.

They made motor mounts/axle holders  for every motor you could think of, as well as guide tongues, body mounts, etc.,....all you needed to do was screw them together.

In the mid 60's you had to be a very decent builder to scratchbuild something that would outrun  a well sorted Dynamic.

Dynamic produced a couple of anglewinder brass 1/32 and 1/24 chassis in the very late 60's, but by this time, there were other better handling chassis on the market, and the Dynamic brass chassis were far less popular.

Cheers
Chris Walker

This is a 1/24 chassis put together using all original Dynamic bits.........this one an inline mount for a FT16D.



Almost as soon as the Dynamic bits came out, builder were making their own brass pan assemblies to enhance the Handling......here is one I built, using a much modified 26D in a sidewinder configuration.

[KensRedZed]

Hi Chris,

Thank you very kindly for an expanded explanation. 

[chrisguyw]

Hi Anthony,....great job on the "clear" bodies...

I am sure you already know this, but, just in case.......

Most vintage clear bodies (pre 1970) were made from Butyrate, and are best painted with enamel paint.
As kids most of us used Testors/Humbrol painted on the inside with a brush, while the really good guys used enamel aerosols.

Post 1970 (ish), the bodies made by Lancer/Dynamic etc. were Lexan, and a PC (polycarbonate) paint was the ticket.
(Tamiya PC, and others are the favourites).

More recently, some folks are making bodies from PETG, and for these, and acrylic paints(Parma Faskolor to name one) are best used.

Tamiya bottled acrylics, can be used to add detail bits, on any of the above.

As with all spray painting, multiple light coats are the way to go, and a final back up coat of white will often do wonders

Mix paint types with the various body materials at your peril 

Cheers
Chris Walker

[Anthony B]

The early Dynamic chassis bits  (all of Anthonys' cars) were cast aluminum, and in the mid 60's there were probably more Dynamic build up chassis' running around the commercial and club tracks than anything else combined.

Ahhh Chris thanks for that - I thought they were a magnesium blend - closer to white metal than aluminium.

I have several bodies that I had not already attached velcro to use as body attachments. What do you suggest I do too attached the bodies to the chassis as I want to avoid the clips and or screws on the side as body attachments? if a system can be 'devised I would definitely paint on the inside - in fact the Lotus 40 above is painted on the inside

Hmmm - I suppose I could paint and then  use velcro   But then comes the decal issue....hmmmm - inside or outside ?

PS I recognise that 26D Champion rebuild ;)

[chrisguyw]

Hi Anthony, It is certainly your choice on whether to paint on the inside or out,........both have merits, on the inside, protects the decals (assuming that they are also stuck on the inside), and does produce a nice shiny smooth surface, if that is what you are after.  On some cars, that nice glossy surface does not really look particularly authentic (especially on older model cars), and I do paint many on the outside. 

As far a body mounting, I personally prefer "pin" mounting, as it is "period correct", and, is far less obvious than screw heads or clips........you can paint the pin heads body colour, and they do tend to disappear. It is dead easy to modify your Dynamic mounts to accept pins.

From a pure modelling perspective, I do understand your desire to eliminate any surface irregularities (pins/clips/screw heads) and for these types of bodies, there are few other options other than your Velcro method.

On any chassis with pans level with the bottom edge of the body sills, you can use some clear tape along the pan, and up the side of the body,.....while this does work quite well, and does not look horrible, the tape does have a tendency to crack over time/use, and is a bit of a pain to remove/re attach the body.

You can glue some thin sponge rubber strips to both the inside of the body and to the outside of your Dynamic mounts, and use screws/nuts, through the holes on the front of the Dynamic motor mount to secure the body mount brackets.. This method is used fairly extensively by the 1/24 IMCA guys to secure the "Mecanno" type chassis to their hard bodies.

This has proved to be a secure/strong method, and does provide some cushioning for those invariable "offs".

Hope this helps, but, I gather you already knew all of this.

Cheers
Chris Walker

[Anthony B]

Ahhh thanks for the memory jog. Will try that on one of the next cars as I still have 3 or 4 more to start 

I was just saying to my wife I wish I was more technically skilled. I tend to do some work then realise days later that I have forgotten something and then have to undo the work. 

Working on a 1/32nd Lola. Not sure of manufacturer but it is from the 70s. Nice detail on the carb stacks.