12th-Dec-20, 11:02 PM
Hi Bob,.......If you are mandated to run the 14K FC-130, (I must have missed this)...you will indeed have to change the pod.
Scaleauto does make an inline RT3 pod (SC-6523C), and while it accepts the longer can FK180 motors, the 14K Jack rabbit is drilled/tapped on the can end, so you can bolt this in (2mm machine screws) with absolutely zero issues whatsoever, no adapter needed. I have done this many many times.
While a flexi-board chassis ( a chassis that flexes torsionally) provides benefits for all slot cars , the benefits are considerably less on cars with low power/skinny tyres...(your car).
You can certainly incorporate some controlled flex into your existing chassis plate/pod by using some silicone/urethane washers, both above and below the pod lugs.......this will allow for some controlled torsional pod flex, which allows the outside rear to load progressively, improving consistency, and, improving grip............so,.......this is an easy way to get most of the benefits of a wire/brass flexi-board chassis easily
I have had both MRSlotcar and Dart hobbies produce these, and they are the 2 I would recommend..........unlike some of the others on the market, these are suitably soft (Darts are urethane, MRSlotcar are silicone).......they both provide good compression/rebound, and as they have good memory, they will not fatigue.
Again, send your mailing address (if you wish), and I will send you some.
Cheers
Chris Walker
This is the chassis of one of my 60's sports cars for our local clubs,.......very similar in concept to yours,.....14K motor, narrow, and skinny tires !!
I did a "cheater" flexi board for this one using urethane washers both above and below the pod lugs to provide some flex.......this is not the greatest example pic., but the washers are there......in this case under the single pod mounting lug at the front, and on both rear pod lugs.
Scaleauto does make an inline RT3 pod (SC-6523C), and while it accepts the longer can FK180 motors, the 14K Jack rabbit is drilled/tapped on the can end, so you can bolt this in (2mm machine screws) with absolutely zero issues whatsoever, no adapter needed. I have done this many many times.
While a flexi-board chassis ( a chassis that flexes torsionally) provides benefits for all slot cars , the benefits are considerably less on cars with low power/skinny tyres...(your car).
You can certainly incorporate some controlled flex into your existing chassis plate/pod by using some silicone/urethane washers, both above and below the pod lugs.......this will allow for some controlled torsional pod flex, which allows the outside rear to load progressively, improving consistency, and, improving grip............so,.......this is an easy way to get most of the benefits of a wire/brass flexi-board chassis easily
I have had both MRSlotcar and Dart hobbies produce these, and they are the 2 I would recommend..........unlike some of the others on the market, these are suitably soft (Darts are urethane, MRSlotcar are silicone).......they both provide good compression/rebound, and as they have good memory, they will not fatigue.
Again, send your mailing address (if you wish), and I will send you some.
Cheers
Chris Walker
This is the chassis of one of my 60's sports cars for our local clubs,.......very similar in concept to yours,.....14K motor, narrow, and skinny tires !!
I did a "cheater" flexi board for this one using urethane washers both above and below the pod lugs to provide some flex.......this is not the greatest example pic., but the washers are there......in this case under the single pod mounting lug at the front, and on both rear pod lugs.

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