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Not sure if this is limited to Scalextric or not, but I have a few cars that have trouble drifting in turns. It's hard to describe maybe and I haven't had time to make a video. The cars seem to drift fine up to a point, but if they drift too far away from the rails, perhaps 15 degrees or so, then violently bounce back in the other direction back towards the rails and then de-slot. It seems as though the guide blade gets stuck or reaches a hard limit of how far it will rotate then bounces back quickly the other way. Not all my cars do this, but the ones that do it really takes away from the fun. To me drifting is like the best part of racing, approaching being out of control / too fast, but then recovering.
One car I have that does this is the "Scalextric Porsche 911 3.0 RSR Jagermeister 1:32 Slot Race Car C4211 Orange"
Thanks
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(24th-Apr-23, 08:56 PM)jraggio Wrote: To me drifting is like the best part of racing, approaching being out of control / too fast, but then recovering.
Drifting isn't racing, drifting is sliding sideways to the limit and staying in control whereas racing is limiting loss of time in corners by maximising traction.
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Probably to do with guide rotation limits. Cars designed for magnets don't drift much and are just 'stuck down' so don't need to have that much movement.
I always make my cars with almost 90 degree movement in either direction. Whilst Kevan is no doubt right that good traction probably means faster, I admit to enjoying sideways action and holding it as close to the limit as I can. Half the fun at home although I tend to rein it in a bit when racing seriously.
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(24th-Apr-23, 10:22 PM)Kevan Wrote: Drifting isn't racing, drifting is sliding sideways to the limit and staying in control whereas racing is limiting loss of time in corners by maximising traction.
Good job nobody told Gilles Villeneuve or Gerry Marshall that you shouldn't slide the rear end in corners! Seemed to work quite well for them. Doesn't seem to hamper Grant Williams in his Jag at Goodwood either, he has won the St Mary's Trophy five times while spending most of the race sideways.
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That's not 'Drifting' that's just a momentary loss of rear tyre grip
...THIS is Drifting (I ran an RC Drift forum for 10 years in the very early noughties)
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(This post was last modified: 25th-Apr-23, 01:07 PM by
Kevan.)
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(25th-Apr-23, 06:49 AM)Gordon Steadman Wrote: Probably to do with guide rotation limits. Cars designed for magnets don't drift much and are just 'stuck down' so don't need to have that much movement.
I always make my cars with almost 90 degree movement in either direction. Whilst Kevan is no doubt right that good traction probably means faster, I admit to enjoying sideways action and holding it as close to the limit as I can. Half the fun at home although I tend to rein it in a bit when racing seriously.
How do you go about setting it to 90 degrees? What is the stock limit usually?
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I build them myself.
I keep a few ready to run cars for guests but my other cars are mostly home built brass chassied cars.
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Kev says it all.
"Drifting isn't racing"
The only reason to induce drift is because you have fun doing that
Have a look at this thread which may help you
Actually, damn, I need to rest read this myself
.. and then maybe update
https://www.slotforum.com/threads/causes...ed.157506/
However , expecting good handing behaviour from a scalextric brand car IS unrealistic
AlanW
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Alan, I bet you'll read that first post and disagree with some of the points knowing what you know now.
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(This post was last modified: 26th-Apr-23, 09:32 AM by
Kevan.)
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I'm not sure this "drifting isn't racing" mantra is very helpful. Their are lots of different ways to race, and jraggio has already said that he enjoys it when the cars get a bit sideways. I do too, especially as I'm a classic rally fan.
As for how to allow the cars to go more sideways without slapping back uncontrollably, I guess it would depend how the guide rotation is controlled.
You'd need to have a look at how the chassis and the guide blade interact to stop the rotation, then perform a bit of butchery to allow grater play. Obviously that is safer if you can alter the guide itself, as it can easily be replaced if it all goes wrong.