[Nonfractal]

The impact of the HRS2 chassis in the scaley TR7 body.
The front axle  to guide-hole distance is not adjustable. 
The guide is too far forward and hits the grille work under the front bumper.

Longer guide length is beneficial to handling and adds stability. 
What to do? Cut and reshape the grille work is the best solution.
Cut, clamped and superglue 
Now there is space between the reworked grille for the guide and ferrules.

Now, what to do about those rear wheel arches ? 
       

[classicchrisk]

I can't tell if you have the axle fitted to the guide holder, or not. When I fit HRS chassis to saloon cars, I find I need to use one of the axle supports over the guide "A" frame, to shorten the distance between guide and front axle. Here's one fitted to an old Scalextric 6R4.

[classicchrisk]

Here are a couple of photo's, I hope!!

[classicchrisk]

Alan

Nice plug on the World Wide Chat! It prompted me to order my Amato chassis (the OP used a JMay chassis), so three different examples. Think I am going to go narrow at the rear though...I just cannot go high and wide. Will work on achieving 'fast narrow' though!

Are we going to need to cut up the interior to fit the inline motors? Any tips welcome.

Hi Alan, fit a vac formed interior. You'll take out weight and get clearance for a long can motor. Also, it will help to lower the centre of gravity a little.

[Nonfractal]

I can't tell if you have the axle fitted to the guide holder, or not. When I fit HRS chassis to saloon cars, I find I need to use one of the axle supports over the guide "A" frame, to shorten the distance between guide and front axle. Here's one fitted to an old Scalextric 6R4.

Got it! 
For the TR7, The axle does go through the guide holder.
I didn't realise that the spare axle holder could go ahead of the guide frame axle position, not just behind it.
However, the hrs2 "screw kit" only comes with one pair of axle/guide bolts so I'd have had to order 2 screw kits to make this work.
Thanks
Alan

[OXO cube]

   

its coming together now ... stance looks good and with the side skirts now printed to the chassis it looks much better
luckily no need to modify front valance , guide fits good 
front looks planted , just need to fettle the axle adjustment a bit ( see pic)
the rear looks good , although i might remove the rear chassis corners behind the rear wheels 
i do feel the rear arches need further trimming for clearance only , as i am happy with the body height
next is body posts , motor , weight placement , gearing , glazing and then the interior question ( which one ?) 
hoping to debut it as a little side note during B2JG proxy ( work commitments permitting ), when i host in a couple weeks   will be good to see how it compares 

               

[classicchrisk]

Thanks
Alan

I order my screws and bolts etc, on eBay. Try to keep plenty in stock. Only a few pounds for 50 M2 grub screws, or M2  bolts and nuts etc. I only get them about once a year, try to get a big order and save on postage.
Cheers Chris

[OXO cube]

       

done

[BAracer]

In the game...

   

[BAracer]

So what's the reason everyone has gone long can with inline? 

I was going s-can, but am now curious...