[Jaxbacker]

I understand the concept now, I think. Difficult to implement though. Need more training and experience I guess. 

Track quite close I plan to drive on when it gets normal again.

http://www.slotracing.se/tracks/se/umea.html

[KensRedZed]

Hi Jax,

Everyone has different methods. This is how I build cars, and it's extremely reliable.

   
   
   
   

I use the knife to open the braid. Then use the small flat screwdriver to open it further so the folded wire easily slides in.

   

I push the wire to the inside of the guide before installing a 2x3mm set screw. That way the threads can't damage the wire. The wire also has the least amount of movement at the inside of the guide. Wires attached this way will last a very long time.

   
   
   
   

Cheers,
Ken

[autoavia]

That looks like a fast track. Setting up a Slotit motor pod for a wood track is totally du=ifferent from the set up for plastic track.

This article might help but I am sure there will be others on the web and videos on Youtube as well. }

http://www.rockinghamslotcarclub.co.uk/S...ev%202.pdf  

Don't be afraid to ask other racers at the club. At most clubs the more experienced racers will usually help the beginners.
We were all new to the hobby once. I first had an interest in slot racing in the 60's and used to buy an hours track time at a local raceway but I couldn't afford a competitive car so I didn't race. I started again about 5 years ago and have learnt a lot but we all learn new things all the time no matter how much racing experience we already have.

By the way you might want to change the Slotit braid for something softer as Slotit braid is quite rigid and tends to make the front of the car bounce. I use NSR Ultra Soft Copper Braid but you could check with other racers to find out what seems to work best at your local track. 
Th standard tyres won't give much grip on a wood track so you might want to change those, but again, ask at club and find out what others use.

[Jaxbacker]

It looks like a strong attachment Ken. Great tutorial. I Will try it. 
Howewer, i can not have the cords pointing upwards. There is very little space between thee guide and the body. The guide sits far forward in the chassis of my modell and the body is low in the front.

I wasnot awere that different braids could make a difference. Thanks for the tip Autoavia. I will definitely ask about wich tires work well on the local track. 

In general terms, do NSR RTR tires really work without having to grind/tru them first?

Cheers
Jaxbacker

[autoavia]

If you route the wires as shown in an earlier post then adjust them so that there is slightly more lead ahead of the front axle than you need to allow full guide movement you should be fine. If the leads stick up in the air too far just push the loops down so that they stick out sideways but make sure they don't foul the back of the headlights when the guide moves.

The picture Below is my Nissan Chassis. It has a different motor but the routing for the motor leads is the same. I am not the best car builder but at least it will give you an idea of what yours should look like.

   


 I think you will find that all NSR tyres need gluing and truing. It is far more important for the tyres to be true when running no mag on a wood track. If the tyres aren't true the back of the car will bounce and you will lose grip.

 At the club where I race on a wooden track we have handout tyres for Slotit Group C and we use Slotit SIPT1207F22 tyres. 
They are designed to be used as handout tyres for the Slotit Group C championship. The diameter is 2mm less than the standard Slotit F22 tyres so that they stretch more when you put them over the wheels. This means they grip the rim harder so that the tyre doesn't slip and doesn't need gluing or truing.
 These tyres should be fine for a beginner, particularly if you don't have a tyre truer but it would be a good idea to check with other club members as well because the surface can vary a lot on different wooden tracks.