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Nissan R89C - Printable Version

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Nissan R89C - Jaxbacker - 18th-Dec-20

Hey! 
I am new to this hobby but have read what i found about how to adjust a slot car. I bought a Slotit Nissan R89c to try magless racing. With the body on, the guide flag dont move freely, without the body the guide moves super smoth. The motor wire sems to interfere with the low front end body. I do not manage to adjust the cables so the problems disappeares.
Has anyone had the same problem with that modell or similar? And if so, how did you solve the problem? 

Sincerely
Jorgen A

RE: Nissan R89C - JasonB - 18th-Dec-20

Welcome Jorgen.

I don't have that car, but the obvious first thing to check is that you've got the wires routed correctly as shown below.

[attachment=10883]

RE: Nissan R89C - Jaxbacker - 18th-Dec-20

Hey!
The cables in the picture are very similar to what they did on my car when it was delivered. Despite that, it rubs and wants to stick to the body.
Thanks anyway.

RE: Nissan R89C - Jaxbacker - 19th-Dec-20

[attachment=10925]
Hello again! 
I tried different angels to get the cords and guide to run freely. Eventualy the cords broke..

RE: Nissan R89C - Nonfractal - 19th-Dec-20

Jorgen,
Looking at the pic of your broken guide wiring , it looks like  the end of the wires were soldered. 
Soldering makes it easier to insert the wires into to the guide but makes the wire brittle and prone to breakage like this, especially when using set screws (grub screws) to fix the wire. 

Everyone has their own favourite motor wire and you will find lots of different opinions on this.
My own "go-to" wire is pendle slot's own  braided silicone. 
An ideal motor wire :

- is thick enough to carry the current unimpeded.
- is stiff enough to gently centre the guide
- is soft enough not to break in use.
- is skinny enough  not to rub on the car interior.

Different bodies and motor layouts (AW/SW/IL)  present different challenges in wiring layout .
You just have to experiment until you find a method that works for you.
You might have to lift the front of the body up slightly using a washer on the body post to get the clearance needed.

Hope this helps.
Alan

RE: Nissan R89C - Giddyup - 19th-Dec-20

(19th-Dec-20, 10:21 AM)Jaxbacker Wrote:  Hello again! 
I tried different angels to get the cords and guide to run freely. Eventualy the cords broke..

A couple of suggestions & items to consider:
1) For these newer Slot.it's, the lead wires are held in by grub screws which will eventually cut the lead wire. One way to avoid is to have the braid between the grub screw and the lead wire so the screw isn't directly rubbing/cutting the lead wire. Or you can take out the screws and use an eyelet and avoid the situation altogether

2) As the picture showed, try and have the extra slack of lead wire, but have it lay as flat as possible to avoid rubbing against the body

3) Your guide sticking may so it may not be guide-wire related. Some of the Slot.it guides have an imperfection on top of the guide (the part that will face the bottom of the chassis); it's an imperfection of where they were cut off the sprue/tree. You will need to remove the guide (which require pressing the guide post together and simultaneously pressing down to pop it under the chassis - it's a bit fiddly and can be a pain, so be patient. Then sand the top part of the guide

4) There may also be an imperfection in the guide post holder within the chassis. If you have a rounded jewelers (rat tail) file, a couple of passes through in a light manner would clean it up. Not too much as you don't want to create slop in the guide.

5) The last thing I would check is to see whether the lead wires were fouling the front axle and/or is the front axle tires are rubbing on the body.

Hope that helps!
Tom

RE: Nissan R89C - Jaxbacker - 19th-Dec-20

Thanks for all the suggestions. Will examine them. Very useful.

RE: Nissan R89C - KensRedZed - 20th-Dec-20

Hello Jax.

Just out of curiosity. Are your wires going into the guide from the top? Or the bottom?

RE: Nissan R89C - Jaxbacker - 20th-Dec-20

The wires were indeed soldered from the factory. Think it formed a hinge. I have been assembling them without soldering now. Hope there will be less hinge effect.
I do not understand the question that the cables would go in from the bottom.

RE: Nissan R89C - autoavia - 20th-Dec-20

The wires go in from the top of the guide and there should be a grub screw which locks the wire and the braid together.
 
 You will need to adjust the loop of wire between the front axle and guide to find a length which will allow the guide full movement but doesn't foul on the body and stop the guide returning to the centre. 
The video in the link might help. The car in the video uses the earlier Slotit design where the wires are attached by push in ferrules but the way the wires are routed and set up is exactly the same as your car.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPOtggPA-qE

Hope this helps. The Nissan is a great car once you have got the guide and pod set up for the type of track that you use.