<![CDATA[SlotRacer Forum - Miscellaneous Reviews]]> https://slotracer.online/community/ Thu, 22 Oct 2026 20:14:07 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Tlemetry for Slot GreenBox]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4847 Fri, 20 Jun 2025 18:18:05 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4847 ]]> ]]> <![CDATA[Talking Utter Slot]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=3913 Tue, 07 Nov 2023 15:17:16 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=3913
 Being a child of the mid 20th century I wasn't actually sure what a podcast was so asked Mr Google and, after reading the answer, I came to the conclusion that it is what we used to call an audio cassette tape of some people talking! Nowadays of course you just download the thing from t'interweb rather than pressing buttons on a tape machine.

When is a podcast not a podcast?
When it morphs into a YouTube video which happened around episode 28. A podcast is essentially sound only so the series probably needs renaming but the addition of moving images is never a bad thing.

Having sorted that I fired up the tablet, plugged in the earphones and listened to/watched some episodes, most of them in fact, so are they any good or just 'utter slot'?

Mine host
The originator and lead voice is Scott Brownlee, retired Toyota PR executive, long time Slotforum member and former moderator. He also played a pivotal role in the history of the UK Slot Festival. He has been absent from the slot scene for some time but returned to the fold in late 2022 and started the podcast in question.

Supporting cast
Initially his sparring partner was Peter ??? whose surname escapes me for the moment but he is also a long time slot enthusiast based near Oxford and was one of the founding moderators on Slotforum where he goes under the pen name of Wankel Ickx. He has an off beat sense of humour which annoys some people but I quite like it. He is occasionally a bit derogatory about this site though, which is somewhat irritating as we often advertise the podcast on our front page which is a damn sight more than his beloved Slotforum does.
In more recent episodes other enthusiasts have also featured such as Gareth Jex, motorsport journalist Nick Garton, Dave Kennedy and the founding fathers of Slotforum - Doug Teggin and Alan Wakefield.

Content
Initially this was mainly confined to discussion about current events and slot car releases and they probably become less relevant as time passes. More recent episodes are much more varied though and cover a wide spectrum from slot rally via the history of forums to the disposing of collections. You can find a full list of episodes with description of content HERE. Obviously not everyone will be interested in the discussions in every episode but there is bound to be something in there  to appeal to most tastes.

Criticisms?
Not much to complain about really. The sound quality on earlier episodes was a bit rough but that was soon sorted. When talking to his friends Gareth and Nick some in jokes about their local club tend to creep in which would puzzle anybody who doesn't know them. A few things could also do with a bit of expansion such as several references to the NSCC without explaining to the unitiated what it actually is.

Worth a watch/listen?
As a pleasant way to while away the hours while I was bed bound I found it great company. I really liked the way Scott doesn't take himself or the whole subject too seriously. There are well over 40 episodes at the time of writing so it is unlikely that you would want to wade through them all but I would suggest sampling one or two of the later episodes for starters. You may well get hooked, I know I have.]]>
 Being a child of the mid 20th century I wasn't actually sure what a podcast was so asked Mr Google and, after reading the answer, I came to the conclusion that it is what we used to call an audio cassette tape of some people talking! Nowadays of course you just download the thing from t'interweb rather than pressing buttons on a tape machine.

When is a podcast not a podcast?
When it morphs into a YouTube video which happened around episode 28. A podcast is essentially sound only so the series probably needs renaming but the addition of moving images is never a bad thing.

Having sorted that I fired up the tablet, plugged in the earphones and listened to/watched some episodes, most of them in fact, so are they any good or just 'utter slot'?

Mine host
The originator and lead voice is Scott Brownlee, retired Toyota PR executive, long time Slotforum member and former moderator. He also played a pivotal role in the history of the UK Slot Festival. He has been absent from the slot scene for some time but returned to the fold in late 2022 and started the podcast in question.

Supporting cast
Initially his sparring partner was Peter ??? whose surname escapes me for the moment but he is also a long time slot enthusiast based near Oxford and was one of the founding moderators on Slotforum where he goes under the pen name of Wankel Ickx. He has an off beat sense of humour which annoys some people but I quite like it. He is occasionally a bit derogatory about this site though, which is somewhat irritating as we often advertise the podcast on our front page which is a damn sight more than his beloved Slotforum does.
In more recent episodes other enthusiasts have also featured such as Gareth Jex, motorsport journalist Nick Garton, Dave Kennedy and the founding fathers of Slotforum - Doug Teggin and Alan Wakefield.

Content
Initially this was mainly confined to discussion about current events and slot car releases and they probably become less relevant as time passes. More recent episodes are much more varied though and cover a wide spectrum from slot rally via the history of forums to the disposing of collections. You can find a full list of episodes with description of content HERE. Obviously not everyone will be interested in the discussions in every episode but there is bound to be something in there  to appeal to most tastes.

Criticisms?
Not much to complain about really. The sound quality on earlier episodes was a bit rough but that was soon sorted. When talking to his friends Gareth and Nick some in jokes about their local club tend to creep in which would puzzle anybody who doesn't know them. A few things could also do with a bit of expansion such as several references to the NSCC without explaining to the unitiated what it actually is.

Worth a watch/listen?
As a pleasant way to while away the hours while I was bed bound I found it great company. I really liked the way Scott doesn't take himself or the whole subject too seriously. There are well over 40 episodes at the time of writing so it is unlikely that you would want to wade through them all but I would suggest sampling one or two of the later episodes for starters. You may well get hooked, I know I have.]]> <![CDATA[Visit to the local car & toy museum]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=3593 Sun, 12 Mar 2023 15:22:02 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=3593
Cars & toys

Nico]]>
Cars & toys

Nico]]> <![CDATA[TruSpeed car holder and set up plate]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=3440 Mon, 19 Dec 2022 12:56:16 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=3440
Now TruSpeed are best known for their excellent range of controllers but they also do a very useful accessory which can help with this:


An injection moulded perspex display holder  
.jpg Set up plate.jpg Size: 18.13 KB  Downloads: 646

The plate is moulded transparent plastic with a cut-out for the slot car guide and four recess cut-outs for the wheels so the tyres do not touch the base. It is light weight at 30g with dimensions of 150 x 68 x 10 mm.
Just the job for storing your race cars or to display your collection. All my race car shelves are fitted with them:

.jpg Shelf.JPG Size: 1.25 MB  Downloads: 180

I also use them as a storage base in my carry case and they are ideal at a race meeting to set the cars down on between heats. The car sits firmly with no chance of damage to the guide or brushes, and the wheels are all kept off the surface to ensure no dust is picked up.

You can also convert them into a dual purpose item as the underside is hollow and designed to take their screw-in 2mm Aluminium Flat Set-Up Plate.
.jpg Set-up_Flat_Plate_Black_1_large.jpg Size: 61.64 KB  Downloads: 622

Made from flat cold rolled aluminium providing a precision flat plate to set up slot car chassis it has a machined slot for the guide to set into to check chassis, ride height, and general set-up and comes in natural colour or matt black.

Verdict
At just £1.50 each for the display holder and £4.95 for the set up plate they are excellent value and highly recommended.]]>
Now TruSpeed are best known for their excellent range of controllers but they also do a very useful accessory which can help with this:


An injection moulded perspex display holder  
.jpg Set up plate.jpg Size: 18.13 KB  Downloads: 646

The plate is moulded transparent plastic with a cut-out for the slot car guide and four recess cut-outs for the wheels so the tyres do not touch the base. It is light weight at 30g with dimensions of 150 x 68 x 10 mm.
Just the job for storing your race cars or to display your collection. All my race car shelves are fitted with them:

.jpg Shelf.JPG Size: 1.25 MB  Downloads: 180

I also use them as a storage base in my carry case and they are ideal at a race meeting to set the cars down on between heats. The car sits firmly with no chance of damage to the guide or brushes, and the wheels are all kept off the surface to ensure no dust is picked up.

You can also convert them into a dual purpose item as the underside is hollow and designed to take their screw-in 2mm Aluminium Flat Set-Up Plate.
.jpg Set-up_Flat_Plate_Black_1_large.jpg Size: 61.64 KB  Downloads: 622

Made from flat cold rolled aluminium providing a precision flat plate to set up slot car chassis it has a machined slot for the guide to set into to check chassis, ride height, and general set-up and comes in natural colour or matt black.

Verdict
At just £1.50 each for the display holder and £4.95 for the set up plate they are excellent value and highly recommended.]]> <![CDATA[Controller holder by J May]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=3407 Fri, 02 Dec 2022 16:29:45 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=3407 John May if he could 3DP some for me.

Helpful as always he designed, printed and posted them within a week.

.jpg Holder (1).JPG Size: 1.33 MB  Downloads: 309

.jpg Holder (2).JPG Size: 1.15 MB  Downloads: 278

They can be mounted horizontally (the best position) or vertically with simple screw fixings and my controllers are now safely stowed away from marauding slot cars.

.jpg Holder (3).JPG Size: 2.05 MB  Downloads: 300

.jpg Holder (4).JPG Size: 2.52 MB  Downloads: 336

Verdict
Does what it says on the tin, a handy bit of kit. Recommended and good value at £3.50 each plus postage.They were tailored to fit my TruSpeed controllers but John can always tweak the dimensions to suit other ones if you ask him.

P.S. If you own a 3D printer then John has generously provided the STL files for this. LINK ]]> John May if he could 3DP some for me.

Helpful as always he designed, printed and posted them within a week.

.jpg Holder (1).JPG Size: 1.33 MB  Downloads: 309

.jpg Holder (2).JPG Size: 1.15 MB  Downloads: 278

They can be mounted horizontally (the best position) or vertically with simple screw fixings and my controllers are now safely stowed away from marauding slot cars.

.jpg Holder (3).JPG Size: 2.05 MB  Downloads: 300

.jpg Holder (4).JPG Size: 2.52 MB  Downloads: 336

Verdict
Does what it says on the tin, a handy bit of kit. Recommended and good value at £3.50 each plus postage.They were tailored to fit my TruSpeed controllers but John can always tweak the dimensions to suit other ones if you ask him.

P.S. If you own a 3D printer then John has generously provided the STL files for this. LINK ]]> <![CDATA[3DP Scalextric guide replacement by J May]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=3364 Thu, 10 Nov 2022 16:30:04 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=3364
Of course many people replace them with aftermarket parts but this usually involves a degree of surgery to the chassis which is beyond my meagre fettling talents. Fortunately John May has come to the rescue with 3D printed direct replacements:
.png MAY 3.png Size: 14.1 KB  Downloads: 617
All you need to do is unscrew and remove the standard guide, snip off the metal shoes, add a couple of ferrules to the lead wires and fit the replacement straight in with the original screw. Simples.

I recently purchased a couple to try on my BTCC BMW M3s and am highly pleased with the result. I am fairly ham fisted with this sort of stuff so Tel (Savage GT) changed them for me but any normal enthusiast would have no difficulty fitting them.

.jpg MAY 2.jpg Size: 1.16 MB  Downloads: 199



.jpg MAY 1.jpg Size: 1.77 MB  Downloads: 204

They have transformed the performance of the cars, knocked a couple of tenths off the lap time but, more importantly, I can launch them into the corners with complete confidence. Random front end deslots are now a thing of the past and snap oversteering moments can be caught and corrected as the guide stays planted if you are a tad overambitious with corner exit speed.

At just £2 each plus postage they are surely the simplest, cheapest method of improving the handling of any Scalextric car and I thoroughly recommend them. John also does a shallower version for plastic track if you need one and further details can be found in his traders section of the forum together with all the other clever stuff he produces. LINK]]>
Of course many people replace them with aftermarket parts but this usually involves a degree of surgery to the chassis which is beyond my meagre fettling talents. Fortunately John May has come to the rescue with 3D printed direct replacements:
.png MAY 3.png Size: 14.1 KB  Downloads: 617
All you need to do is unscrew and remove the standard guide, snip off the metal shoes, add a couple of ferrules to the lead wires and fit the replacement straight in with the original screw. Simples.

I recently purchased a couple to try on my BTCC BMW M3s and am highly pleased with the result. I am fairly ham fisted with this sort of stuff so Tel (Savage GT) changed them for me but any normal enthusiast would have no difficulty fitting them.

.jpg MAY 2.jpg Size: 1.16 MB  Downloads: 199



.jpg MAY 1.jpg Size: 1.77 MB  Downloads: 204

They have transformed the performance of the cars, knocked a couple of tenths off the lap time but, more importantly, I can launch them into the corners with complete confidence. Random front end deslots are now a thing of the past and snap oversteering moments can be caught and corrected as the guide stays planted if you are a tad overambitious with corner exit speed.

At just £2 each plus postage they are surely the simplest, cheapest method of improving the handling of any Scalextric car and I thoroughly recommend them. John also does a shallower version for plastic track if you need one and further details can be found in his traders section of the forum together with all the other clever stuff he produces. LINK]]> <![CDATA[Amato Chassis For Ninco BMW V12 LM]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=3215 Fri, 02 Sep 2022 15:43:59 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=3215 R which has a different chassis, so this will not fit the LMR version.
The most obvious visual difference is the front grill, the LMR has the more modern BMW "kidney" style grill, where this one has the oblong ones.

Anyways, Angelo kindly managed to fit in my request to produce this chassis so I could use it on one of my "Endurance 2022 proxy" entries.
Although the rules are Inline or Sidewinder for the class this car is in, I asked that the chassis be made compatible with AW/SW and IL.
The stock body needs no cutting to accommodate any of those configurations with Slot.it pods.
However, you may need to remove the side fixings on Slot.it pods, not a problem for me as I only ever use the front and rear fixings.

.jpg 20220902_131244.jpg Size: 296.79 KB  Downloads: 226


.jpg 20220902_131257.jpg Size: 274.63 KB  Downloads: 198


The stock chassis rear mounting was right in the way of where a Slot.it pod has it rear screws, and there is little room further back. 
Angelo opted to provide 2 side fixing mounts with the chassis, to be fixed forward of the rear wheels.

You can see the original rear mounting posts in the  picture along with the epoxied in position replacement mountings.

.jpg 20220902_131346.jpg Size: 321.82 KB  Downloads: 225


Excuse my messy wiring, in my years of building slot cars, I this was my first attempt at lighting one  Bigsmile

As usual, everything fitted perfectly with just a bit of trimming to obtain the pod and body float I desired.
And with some smooth shank screws I can obtain a nice degree of body rock.

.jpg 20220902_140640.jpg Size: 323.13 KB  Downloads: 230


.jpg 20220902_141552.jpg Size: 215.71 KB  Downloads: 220


Once again, Many thanks to Angelo for producing another excellent chassis for me, despite having a major DIY job on the go  Thumbup]]> R which has a different chassis, so this will not fit the LMR version.
The most obvious visual difference is the front grill, the LMR has the more modern BMW "kidney" style grill, where this one has the oblong ones.

Anyways, Angelo kindly managed to fit in my request to produce this chassis so I could use it on one of my "Endurance 2022 proxy" entries.
Although the rules are Inline or Sidewinder for the class this car is in, I asked that the chassis be made compatible with AW/SW and IL.
The stock body needs no cutting to accommodate any of those configurations with Slot.it pods.
However, you may need to remove the side fixings on Slot.it pods, not a problem for me as I only ever use the front and rear fixings.

.jpg 20220902_131244.jpg Size: 296.79 KB  Downloads: 226


.jpg 20220902_131257.jpg Size: 274.63 KB  Downloads: 198


The stock chassis rear mounting was right in the way of where a Slot.it pod has it rear screws, and there is little room further back. 
Angelo opted to provide 2 side fixing mounts with the chassis, to be fixed forward of the rear wheels.

You can see the original rear mounting posts in the  picture along with the epoxied in position replacement mountings.

.jpg 20220902_131346.jpg Size: 321.82 KB  Downloads: 225


Excuse my messy wiring, in my years of building slot cars, I this was my first attempt at lighting one  Bigsmile

As usual, everything fitted perfectly with just a bit of trimming to obtain the pod and body float I desired.
And with some smooth shank screws I can obtain a nice degree of body rock.

.jpg 20220902_140640.jpg Size: 323.13 KB  Downloads: 230


.jpg 20220902_141552.jpg Size: 215.71 KB  Downloads: 220


Once again, Many thanks to Angelo for producing another excellent chassis for me, despite having a major DIY job on the go  Thumbup]]> <![CDATA[Slot.It G25 tyres]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=2052 Tue, 23 Mar 2021 16:13:25 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=2052
Details:
Track - 50ft copper taped routed mdf, matt emulsion, unvarnished paint surface.
Car used - Slot.It Merc 190 DTM.
Tyre prep - none apart from light sanding to remove shiny top surface. No oil, no glue. Truing, gluing and oiling will always change the characteristics but that is a whole different can of worms.
Temperature - a bit chilly in the garage today so performance slightly reduced with all tyres. 

Results and comments:
1) Scalextric stock. 10 lap average time 7.9 secs. Best lap 6.94.
Rubbish as expected.

2) Slot.It C1. 10 lap average time 6.1 secs. Best lap 5.79.
These are the stock tyres fitted to the car and are meant for plastic track so not that great on wood.

3) Wasp urethanes. 10 lap average time 5.69 secs. Best lap 5.53.
Urethanes are always better than original manufacturer stock tyres but rarely as good as decent rubber ones. They do last forever though.

4) Slot.It N22. 10 lap average time 5.46 secs. Best lap 5.38.

5) Slot.It F22. 10 lap average time 5.41 secs. Best lap 5.35.

6) Slot.It G25. 10 lap average time 5.42 secs. Best lap 5.32.

7) NSR Ultra. 10 lap average time 5.2 secs. Best lap 4.98.
These are always the canine round things in terms of ultimate lap times but come with the disadvantages that they have a very short lifespan and quality control is terrible. You are lucky to get a useable pair out of any packet. Probably essential at club level but I rarely use them at home.

Conclusions:
Best lap times are always a bit misleading as you can never hit the sweet spot with any consistency and the average over ten laps is a more useful guide so N22/F22/G25 are remarkably close with just a few hundredths of a second between them. Initial thoughts therefore are that the new G25 compound should be alright as a suitable replacement but longevity remains an unknown as I have not used them long term. They do seem a bit tighter fit on the rims than the other two. Mind you they come with a 46p price hike over the others and Pendle currently has stock of F22s so I won't be changing over just yet.

As always these are my findings as an average home user on my track on a particular day - your mileage may well vary depending on track type and skill level.

And Finally......
If you believe that  urethanes ruin the grip for rubber ones and/or vice versa - suffice to say that I duplicated the tests in reverse order and the results were, to all intents and purposes, identical.]]>
Details:
Track - 50ft copper taped routed mdf, matt emulsion, unvarnished paint surface.
Car used - Slot.It Merc 190 DTM.
Tyre prep - none apart from light sanding to remove shiny top surface. No oil, no glue. Truing, gluing and oiling will always change the characteristics but that is a whole different can of worms.
Temperature - a bit chilly in the garage today so performance slightly reduced with all tyres. 

Results and comments:
1) Scalextric stock. 10 lap average time 7.9 secs. Best lap 6.94.
Rubbish as expected.

2) Slot.It C1. 10 lap average time 6.1 secs. Best lap 5.79.
These are the stock tyres fitted to the car and are meant for plastic track so not that great on wood.

3) Wasp urethanes. 10 lap average time 5.69 secs. Best lap 5.53.
Urethanes are always better than original manufacturer stock tyres but rarely as good as decent rubber ones. They do last forever though.

4) Slot.It N22. 10 lap average time 5.46 secs. Best lap 5.38.

5) Slot.It F22. 10 lap average time 5.41 secs. Best lap 5.35.

6) Slot.It G25. 10 lap average time 5.42 secs. Best lap 5.32.

7) NSR Ultra. 10 lap average time 5.2 secs. Best lap 4.98.
These are always the canine round things in terms of ultimate lap times but come with the disadvantages that they have a very short lifespan and quality control is terrible. You are lucky to get a useable pair out of any packet. Probably essential at club level but I rarely use them at home.

Conclusions:
Best lap times are always a bit misleading as you can never hit the sweet spot with any consistency and the average over ten laps is a more useful guide so N22/F22/G25 are remarkably close with just a few hundredths of a second between them. Initial thoughts therefore are that the new G25 compound should be alright as a suitable replacement but longevity remains an unknown as I have not used them long term. They do seem a bit tighter fit on the rims than the other two. Mind you they come with a 46p price hike over the others and Pendle currently has stock of F22s so I won't be changing over just yet.

As always these are my findings as an average home user on my track on a particular day - your mileage may well vary depending on track type and skill level.

And Finally......
If you believe that  urethanes ruin the grip for rubber ones and/or vice versa - suffice to say that I duplicated the tests in reverse order and the results were, to all intents and purposes, identical.]]> <![CDATA[Amato 3DP chassis for Scalextric McLaren F1 GTR]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=2048 Sun, 21 Mar 2021 17:23:19 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=2048 Apart from the usual Scalextric axle slop and guide slop, the chassis is just not beefy enough around the axle/motor area, and as a result on wood once it has some grippy tyres on, it hops, chatters, and ties itself in knots.
I could have spent time bracing the chassis and sorting the guide, but what I really fancied was a proper chassis, but no one made one that I could find.
Luckily, Angelo of Amato Slot Car Design was amenable to my proposition to make one.

The chassis is flat and designed for the body to sit on it (its thin enough at the edges that it is unobtrusive this way).
He even managed to squeeze in a diffuser detail and fitment of the stock lights, not an easy task when the pod fiittings eat into the little space left at the rear of the tail on this car !

[Image: 2847nZc.jpg]

[Image: Wsd3an6.jpg]

As is standard on most of his designs, we also have grub screw adjustable height for the front axle.

I opted to retain the wheels and motor from the donor, and fit the lighting.

[Image: Y9QP53K.jpg]

Everything went together beautifully.

[Image: aBiAsXc.jpg]

But as I wanted more body rock, I decided to trim down the edges and rear mounting post a tiny bit to sit inside the body.

[Image: eT8ZRak.jpg]

I replaced the Scalextric screws with Sloting Plus smooth shanked body screws, and the axles with Slot.it items. I used a Mitos 8 tooth plastic pinion mated to an All Slot Car 25 tooth crown gear. 
I used Slot.It G25 tyres on the rear and rummaged through my tyres to find suitable fronts (the stock ones were a bit loose fitting on the rims for my liking, and needed to be a fraction smaller to allow body rock).

I think the car now sits perfectly on the track, and of course it handles like it should on wood  Rofl

Thank you Angelo, for yet another wonderful chassis  Thumbup

[Image: Wg7uIX1.jpg]

[Image: DUU3Gc3.jpg]

[Image: PJgzsnk.jpg]

[Image: 6xXDVkO.jpg]]]> Apart from the usual Scalextric axle slop and guide slop, the chassis is just not beefy enough around the axle/motor area, and as a result on wood once it has some grippy tyres on, it hops, chatters, and ties itself in knots.
I could have spent time bracing the chassis and sorting the guide, but what I really fancied was a proper chassis, but no one made one that I could find.
Luckily, Angelo of Amato Slot Car Design was amenable to my proposition to make one.

The chassis is flat and designed for the body to sit on it (its thin enough at the edges that it is unobtrusive this way).
He even managed to squeeze in a diffuser detail and fitment of the stock lights, not an easy task when the pod fiittings eat into the little space left at the rear of the tail on this car !

[Image: 2847nZc.jpg]

[Image: Wsd3an6.jpg]

As is standard on most of his designs, we also have grub screw adjustable height for the front axle.

I opted to retain the wheels and motor from the donor, and fit the lighting.

[Image: Y9QP53K.jpg]

Everything went together beautifully.

[Image: aBiAsXc.jpg]

But as I wanted more body rock, I decided to trim down the edges and rear mounting post a tiny bit to sit inside the body.

[Image: eT8ZRak.jpg]

I replaced the Scalextric screws with Sloting Plus smooth shanked body screws, and the axles with Slot.it items. I used a Mitos 8 tooth plastic pinion mated to an All Slot Car 25 tooth crown gear. 
I used Slot.It G25 tyres on the rear and rummaged through my tyres to find suitable fronts (the stock ones were a bit loose fitting on the rims for my liking, and needed to be a fraction smaller to allow body rock).

I think the car now sits perfectly on the track, and of course it handles like it should on wood  Rofl

Thank you Angelo, for yet another wonderful chassis  Thumbup

[Image: Wg7uIX1.jpg]

[Image: DUU3Gc3.jpg]

[Image: PJgzsnk.jpg]

[Image: 6xXDVkO.jpg]]]> <![CDATA[Amato Universal Chassis]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=1984 Thu, 25 Feb 2021 08:25:10 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=1984
Direct from the Amato catalogue:

"universal, adjustable wheelbase FLEX chassis.

Using technology to enhance traditional methods of scratch-building, my take on an adjustable
universal chassis to give scratch builders and car converters another option to choose from.
Designed of course for the equally versatile Slot.It inline motor mounts, the modular chassis is 42mm
wide and can be adjusted to suit the required wheelbase by cutting down the front section.
2 ‘pre-packed’ versions available, however kits can be tailored to suit (please enquire).
FLEX 1 accepts unmodified motor mount. Wheelbase 104-76mm by trimming the front end section,
up to 70mm can be achieved by trimming of the main part also.
FLEX 2 front of slot.it pod is cut down and my new cross member is glued to it to relocate the front
pod mounts to the side. Wheelbase is 97-67mm by trimming the front end section, up to 63mm can be
achieved by trimming the main part also.
Both have side and traditional post mounting options (posts and side mounts supplied)
Side and rear chassis pans supplied to complete the build.
Front end options widths available also with adjustable axle ride height."

The design is similar to the PCS chassis in the way it works, but IMO is improved in several areas.
It accepts Slot.it pods so you can use short or long can motors and  flat 6 motors. Slimline motors can also be used (using a Scaleauto IL slimline pod).

[Image: BMBNLma.jpg]

The front section, once cut down to a suitable size can be fixed by using a screw from below and also secured with the option of using 2 or 4 M2 grub screws from above to  give it added stability. here you can see I have countersunk the hole so I can use an M2 c/s screw from underneath and doubly secured with 2 grub screws from above.

[Image: 10vNk41.jpg]

[Image: 3H8RMmh.jpg]

The front mounts have recently been improved to allow the option of Slot.it spherical bronze bearings with the adjustable height via M2 grub screws.

[Image: krkiqBg.jpg]

The mounting posts included in the kit are a simple but genius idea, making it very easy to obtain a "factory" mounting system, simply cut to the required height , open up the hole to a suitable size for your choice of screws and glue to body. Or you can use the HRS type side mountings.

I am also lucky enough to have the prototype AW/SW pod version, shown here with the mounting posts.

[Image: JtdRHv2.jpg]

[Image: L3uRBf0.jpg]

To test performance, I took my long term fastest club car, removed the body and ran some times on my home track with the rolling chassis.
In my case this is a Scaleauto Radical using a soft Scaleauto chassis, with an Slot.it 1mm offset AW pod running a Flat 6 22k Motor.
I then set the wheelbase of the Amato AW universal chassis identical to the Scaleauto and swapped the entire pod/motor assembly in along with the guide and front axle/wheels. Times were very even, so this chassis has proven an excellent performer IMO.

In summary, I highly recommend this chassis as a basis for your projects. It is well made, versatile and capable.

Thank you Angelo for providing me with the Anglewinder prototype to test  Sun

Full information and dimensions can be found in the Amato Catalogue.   https://slotracer.online/community/attac...?aid=12141]]>
Direct from the Amato catalogue:

"universal, adjustable wheelbase FLEX chassis.

Using technology to enhance traditional methods of scratch-building, my take on an adjustable
universal chassis to give scratch builders and car converters another option to choose from.
Designed of course for the equally versatile Slot.It inline motor mounts, the modular chassis is 42mm
wide and can be adjusted to suit the required wheelbase by cutting down the front section.
2 ‘pre-packed’ versions available, however kits can be tailored to suit (please enquire).
FLEX 1 accepts unmodified motor mount. Wheelbase 104-76mm by trimming the front end section,
up to 70mm can be achieved by trimming of the main part also.
FLEX 2 front of slot.it pod is cut down and my new cross member is glued to it to relocate the front
pod mounts to the side. Wheelbase is 97-67mm by trimming the front end section, up to 63mm can be
achieved by trimming the main part also.
Both have side and traditional post mounting options (posts and side mounts supplied)
Side and rear chassis pans supplied to complete the build.
Front end options widths available also with adjustable axle ride height."

The design is similar to the PCS chassis in the way it works, but IMO is improved in several areas.
It accepts Slot.it pods so you can use short or long can motors and  flat 6 motors. Slimline motors can also be used (using a Scaleauto IL slimline pod).

[Image: BMBNLma.jpg]

The front section, once cut down to a suitable size can be fixed by using a screw from below and also secured with the option of using 2 or 4 M2 grub screws from above to  give it added stability. here you can see I have countersunk the hole so I can use an M2 c/s screw from underneath and doubly secured with 2 grub screws from above.

[Image: 10vNk41.jpg]

[Image: 3H8RMmh.jpg]

The front mounts have recently been improved to allow the option of Slot.it spherical bronze bearings with the adjustable height via M2 grub screws.

[Image: krkiqBg.jpg]

The mounting posts included in the kit are a simple but genius idea, making it very easy to obtain a "factory" mounting system, simply cut to the required height , open up the hole to a suitable size for your choice of screws and glue to body. Or you can use the HRS type side mountings.

I am also lucky enough to have the prototype AW/SW pod version, shown here with the mounting posts.

[Image: JtdRHv2.jpg]

[Image: L3uRBf0.jpg]

To test performance, I took my long term fastest club car, removed the body and ran some times on my home track with the rolling chassis.
In my case this is a Scaleauto Radical using a soft Scaleauto chassis, with an Slot.it 1mm offset AW pod running a Flat 6 22k Motor.
I then set the wheelbase of the Amato AW universal chassis identical to the Scaleauto and swapped the entire pod/motor assembly in along with the guide and front axle/wheels. Times were very even, so this chassis has proven an excellent performer IMO.

In summary, I highly recommend this chassis as a basis for your projects. It is well made, versatile and capable.

Thank you Angelo for providing me with the Anglewinder prototype to test  Sun

Full information and dimensions can be found in the Amato Catalogue.   https://slotracer.online/community/attac...?aid=12141]]> <![CDATA[Carrera Lap counter review]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=1574 Fri, 18 Sep 2020 15:51:01 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=1574
.jpg lap counter.jpg Size: 57.8 KB  Downloads: 539
  

Last  week  I  posted  a  message looking  for  one   of  the  above  pictured   lap  counters. I  received  a  link  from   member   Henk  to  contact  Klaas Bos  at  Slotrace shop in Holland .     :https://www.slotraceshop.nl/product/elek...ler-71590/ 
First  I must  thank  them  both  and  recommend  visiting Klaas' site where  you   will  find  some  fantastic  deals plus  a  virtual tour of  the  premises.
The  mail  order  experience was excellent and the parcel arrived  promptly  by  courier .
The  beauty of  this item is  its  simplicity .Firstly the instructions are  very easy to  follow .the  various  modes  are  clear  and  simple  which makes it  a  joy to  use whether  it  is  in timed  mode or  lap  count mode  .There  is  a  count down to  the  start  and  a  buzzer   for  the  finish .Fastest lap display and  final  position are  easy to access.
The unit can be adjusted to  fit  a  variety of  track widths and  in my  opinion  is  the  perfect  accessory  for  any  two lane analogue home circuit  regardless of  manufacture .
How  would I rate it against  other  similar  products  ,Compared  to  the  DS system  it  is  much  lower  tech  and  doesn't  have the luxury  of  expansion to  more  lanes  ,it  also  doesn't  have  a power off /on option at  the start or finish and  this  is of course  reflected  in the  price .It  is  more  user  friendly  than any  of  the  other  products  from Scalextric /Ninco/SCX etc and  for  me  this  is  a  big  selling  point . 
Of course  many  will  want   a computer  controlled  counter  but  not  all  enthusiasts   have  the  ability  to set  up /install /use these  race management  systems .For carpet racers the  Carrera is the  best  option as  it  takes  seconds  to install .
If  I  had  to  mark this  product  out  of  10 I would give it 10 .
Many  thanks again to  Klaas for the swift delivery and  to Henk  for the link .  ]]>
.jpg lap counter.jpg Size: 57.8 KB  Downloads: 539
  

Last  week  I  posted  a  message looking  for  one   of  the  above  pictured   lap  counters. I  received  a  link  from   member   Henk  to  contact  Klaas Bos  at  Slotrace shop in Holland .     :https://www.slotraceshop.nl/product/elek...ler-71590/ 
First  I must  thank  them  both  and  recommend  visiting Klaas' site where  you   will  find  some  fantastic  deals plus  a  virtual tour of  the  premises.
The  mail  order  experience was excellent and the parcel arrived  promptly  by  courier .
The  beauty of  this item is  its  simplicity .Firstly the instructions are  very easy to  follow .the  various  modes  are  clear  and  simple  which makes it  a  joy to  use whether  it  is  in timed  mode or  lap  count mode  .There  is  a  count down to  the  start  and  a  buzzer   for  the  finish .Fastest lap display and  final  position are  easy to access.
The unit can be adjusted to  fit  a  variety of  track widths and  in my  opinion  is  the  perfect  accessory  for  any  two lane analogue home circuit  regardless of  manufacture .
How  would I rate it against  other  similar  products  ,Compared  to  the  DS system  it  is  much  lower  tech  and  doesn't  have the luxury  of  expansion to  more  lanes  ,it  also  doesn't  have  a power off /on option at  the start or finish and  this  is of course  reflected  in the  price .It  is  more  user  friendly  than any  of  the  other  products  from Scalextric /Ninco/SCX etc and  for  me  this  is  a  big  selling  point . 
Of course  many  will  want   a computer  controlled  counter  but  not  all  enthusiasts   have  the  ability  to set  up /install /use these  race management  systems .For carpet racers the  Carrera is the  best  option as  it  takes  seconds  to install .
If  I  had  to  mark this  product  out  of  10 I would give it 10 .
Many  thanks again to  Klaas for the swift delivery and  to Henk  for the link .  ]]> <![CDATA[Scorpius wireless controller]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=1120 Sun, 01 Mar 2020 16:04:29 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=1120 Scorpius controller which was developed for use on that manufacturers' digital system but, with the addition of an extra accessory, is eminently suitable for analogue use as well. I have had one for a couple of years now so I thought I would share my experience of it. I have no knowledge of its digital capabilities so cannot comment on that aspect.

It is not a cheap option, about £150 at current exchange rates plus postage from Australia (no European distributor at the moment).

Do you actually need one?  
If you have a small home track in a fairly confined space then probably not as wired controllers are not really a handicap in that situation.
If you have a large home track with sight line restrictions or race at a club where other competitors can hamper your view from the podium then it is a much more viable proposition. The freedom to run your car from any position around the track can be most useful.

What do you get?
A Scorpius digital controller:
.jpg Scorpius controller.jpg Size: 116.38 KB  Downloads: 324

and a WAM (wireless analogue module):
.jpg wireless-analogue-module.jpg Size: 109.59 KB  Downloads: 353

The WAM is plugged into your normal driver position and communicates at 2.4 GHz wireless frequency with the controller leaving you free to wander about the track. It does not rely on line of sight so you can drive your car from the back garden if you really want to!

Set up
The controller itself is battery operated and needs a couple of decent AAA ones fitted (Duracell or similar). Poundland cheapies won't do! They are a bit fiddly to replace as you need to dismantle the controller but battery life is generally good and the controller will switch itself off after about 30 seconds inactivity to preserve them.
 
Before first use you need to set up the controller ID and link it to the WAM. This is easily done in a couple of minutes via the menu button and you are then good to go. It only needs to be done once as the settings are retained in the memory. If other people are also using one you need to make sure they are connected to a different channel or they will clash.There are 24 channels available so this shouldn't be a problem. You can also add your own name to the LCD screen to identify it as yours.

Adjustments
There are two available via knobs on the side of the controller and the settings can be viewed on the LCD screen:
1) Brakes - seamlessly adjustable from 0 - 100%

2) Sensitivity/throttle curve - 10 presets. A USB dongle is also available as an extra and this enables you to alter any of these to your own liking via your PC.

If you use high end electronic wired controllers with a multitude of adjustments available this is probably not suitable for you but, for the average user, they are usually sufficient.

In use
I haven't noticed any real performance difference to a wired controller which is exactly as it should be. It happily adjusts to all my cars and control is smooth and predictable.
Some people may not like just 10 preset curves but I find that they do everything I need.
It is difficult to change the control settings during an actual race as you would need to take your eyes off the car and look at the LCD screen. I never do this as I have enough trouble driving the car without twiddling knobs at the same time so it doesn't bother me.
No maintenance cleaning is required as it utilises a Hall effect sensor rather than a wiper board.
It switches itself off between races so you do have to remember to fire it up again before the green light or you can have an embarrassing non-start!

Conclusions
This is a good product although it doesn't have as many parameter adjustments as wired versions in the same price range. If a wireless controller would be of use to you then it will fit the bill admirably. After sales service is also good in the unlikely event of any problems but, bear in mind that Scorpius is based in Australia so postal delays and costs will be a factor.

It is not my first choice of controller as I normally use my wired Truspeed MTII which fits my hand better and has an extra acceleration control which I find useful but that is just my personal preference and in no way detracts from the quality of the Scorpius one. When we have our monthly GOLD club meetings at Fluff's track with its terrible sight lines then the Scorpius one is indispensable.]]> Scorpius controller which was developed for use on that manufacturers' digital system but, with the addition of an extra accessory, is eminently suitable for analogue use as well. I have had one for a couple of years now so I thought I would share my experience of it. I have no knowledge of its digital capabilities so cannot comment on that aspect.

It is not a cheap option, about £150 at current exchange rates plus postage from Australia (no European distributor at the moment).

Do you actually need one?  
If you have a small home track in a fairly confined space then probably not as wired controllers are not really a handicap in that situation.
If you have a large home track with sight line restrictions or race at a club where other competitors can hamper your view from the podium then it is a much more viable proposition. The freedom to run your car from any position around the track can be most useful.

What do you get?
A Scorpius digital controller:
.jpg Scorpius controller.jpg Size: 116.38 KB  Downloads: 324

and a WAM (wireless analogue module):
.jpg wireless-analogue-module.jpg Size: 109.59 KB  Downloads: 353

The WAM is plugged into your normal driver position and communicates at 2.4 GHz wireless frequency with the controller leaving you free to wander about the track. It does not rely on line of sight so you can drive your car from the back garden if you really want to!

Set up
The controller itself is battery operated and needs a couple of decent AAA ones fitted (Duracell or similar). Poundland cheapies won't do! They are a bit fiddly to replace as you need to dismantle the controller but battery life is generally good and the controller will switch itself off after about 30 seconds inactivity to preserve them.
 
Before first use you need to set up the controller ID and link it to the WAM. This is easily done in a couple of minutes via the menu button and you are then good to go. It only needs to be done once as the settings are retained in the memory. If other people are also using one you need to make sure they are connected to a different channel or they will clash.There are 24 channels available so this shouldn't be a problem. You can also add your own name to the LCD screen to identify it as yours.

Adjustments
There are two available via knobs on the side of the controller and the settings can be viewed on the LCD screen:
1) Brakes - seamlessly adjustable from 0 - 100%

2) Sensitivity/throttle curve - 10 presets. A USB dongle is also available as an extra and this enables you to alter any of these to your own liking via your PC.

If you use high end electronic wired controllers with a multitude of adjustments available this is probably not suitable for you but, for the average user, they are usually sufficient.

In use
I haven't noticed any real performance difference to a wired controller which is exactly as it should be. It happily adjusts to all my cars and control is smooth and predictable.
Some people may not like just 10 preset curves but I find that they do everything I need.
It is difficult to change the control settings during an actual race as you would need to take your eyes off the car and look at the LCD screen. I never do this as I have enough trouble driving the car without twiddling knobs at the same time so it doesn't bother me.
No maintenance cleaning is required as it utilises a Hall effect sensor rather than a wiper board.
It switches itself off between races so you do have to remember to fire it up again before the green light or you can have an embarrassing non-start!

Conclusions
This is a good product although it doesn't have as many parameter adjustments as wired versions in the same price range. If a wireless controller would be of use to you then it will fit the bill admirably. After sales service is also good in the unlikely event of any problems but, bear in mind that Scorpius is based in Australia so postal delays and costs will be a factor.

It is not my first choice of controller as I normally use my wired Truspeed MTII which fits my hand better and has an extra acceleration control which I find useful but that is just my personal preference and in no way detracts from the quality of the Scorpius one. When we have our monthly GOLD club meetings at Fluff's track with its terrible sight lines then the Scorpius one is indispensable.]]> <![CDATA[Scalextric Spark Plug]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=1094 Wed, 19 Feb 2020 09:37:40 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=1094
.jpg SP Plugs.JPG Size: 138.86 KB  Downloads: 343


It plugs into the controller socket on the current version of the basic Scalextric analogue powerbase - the ones using the chunky plastic rectangular plugs...

.jpg SP standard2.JPG Size: 239.1 KB  Downloads: 377


Spark Plug runs with the standard Scalextric analogue power supply (P9400) plugged into the base and a combination of Spark Plugs and standard analogue controllers can be used together.

When you plug in a Spark Plug and the power supply, nothing happens until you place a car on the track - the dongle recognises the car (the wheels spin if you hold the rear off the track) and the green LED on the dongle flashes...

.jpg SP standard1.JPG Size: 218.02 KB  Downloads: 450


It's then time to download (if you haven't already) and launch the Scalextric Spark Plug app - available free from the Apple App Store and Google Play. The smart device connects to the Spark Plug dongle via Bluetooth, so the minimum requirements are: Bluetooth v4.0 BLE, Andoid OS 5 (Lollipop) or Apple iOS 8.0. Launch the app and the green LED on the dongle will eventually go solid - and you are greeted on your device by a Spark Plug animation and then the main screen, where you can choose a character or set-up your own driver profile...

.jpg IMG_0710.jpg Size: 140.4 KB  Downloads: 399
.jpg IMG_0702.jpg Size: 192.16 KB  Downloads: 368


There are plenty of ways you can customise the app, all of them accessed via the main menu...

.jpg IMG_0706.jpg Size: 181.06 KB  Downloads: 316
.jpg IMG_0707.jpg Size: 127.38 KB  Downloads: 367


And there is one alternative 'skin'...

.jpg IMG_0708.jpg Size: 172.04 KB  Downloads: 320


But the most important thing is how the Spark Plug works. This is the main screen in standard 'Single' player mode...

.jpg IMG_0700.jpg Size: 202.14 KB  Downloads: 376
.jpg IMG_0703.jpg Size: 202.08 KB  Downloads: 377


On the left is a throttle slider and on the right a brake button. The slider drops back down to zero if you lift your finger off it, the braking effect depends how long you press the button for. The picture on the left is with the car slowed slightly  with the brake - on the right it is slowed with the throttle. For those of us who have many decades of using a standard controller, it takes time and effort to get used to.

In fact, I've found it takes a completely different way of driving - instead of lifting off the throttle going into a corner, I dab the brakes (or step on them hard for a hairpin). It's not unlike using a race simulator or video racing game - and very similar to digital slot car racing using programmes like RCS64 with dynamic braking turned-off (which is how we race at WHO/digital). Essentially, it is left-foot braking a slot car using a smart device. Or it would be, if you change the screen round to the 'left-handed' setting, which - as a right-hander - I found slightly more intuitive...

.jpg IMG_0709.jpg Size: 201.4 KB  Downloads: 329


It was time to do some testing against the clock...

.jpg SP ARC One.jpg Size: 282.98 KB  Downloads: 473


This was made quite simple by the fact that Spark Plug works with the basic ARC One powerbase. The controller sockets are the right ones and the various Bluetooth connections did not interfere with each other. I set up the simple rug-racing track with the Scalextric Mini Cooper S cars (with magnets) that I use for public events (see here). I chose this set-up because it's how Spark Plug will be used by most people.

With a standard 'traditional' Scalextric controller I managed a pretty quick best lap time of 1.64 seconds. With the Spark Plug app on my 4-inch iPhone screen, I got down to 1.87 seconds, which wasn't bad. I then swapped devices and used Spark Plug with my 9.7-inch iPad - taking exactly a tenth of a second off my best on the phone - 1.77 seconds. Maybe it was because the controls were bigger?

.jpg IMG_0990.jpg Size: 697.36 KB  Downloads: 346


At the bottom of the screen is a button with Max Speed on it. This opens up a menu to set the power from 10 to 100% - ideal for beginners learning how to race. And it also gives more 'sensitivity' across the throttle range - especially useful on a slower, technical circuit. The Max Speed menu can be accessed from the main menu or from the race screen, which is ideal. Another 'learning aid' that is due with the next update of the app is an in-game option that penalises crashes and rewards drivers who stay on the track. It's a great way of training new slot car racers while have lots of fun...

.jpg IMG_0705.jpg Size: 204.09 KB  Downloads: 447
.jpg IMG_0704.jpg Size: 206.14 KB  Downloads: 336


Speaking of fun, the two-player Versus mode provides some riotous enjoyment. Added to the race screen are Boost and Resistrict buttons. Each lasts ten seconds and then recharges more slowly (Restrict taking the longest). Boost increases your own speed significantly - quite alarmingly, in fact. Restrict reduces your opponent's speed to a crawl. Pushing Boost to counter-act Restrict does work, but you really must count down the ten seconds - otherwise the power surge after the Restrict ends will definitely put your car in the scenery!

If you car is off the track for a while (lost in the scenery) or you replace it on the wrong lane, Spark Plug will tell you...

.jpg IMG_0701.jpg Size: 201.85 KB  Downloads: 326


Although there is no way I am about to hang up my traditional controllers (too many years of muscle memory invested in those), I did enjoy the challenge of getting to grips with Spark Plug and learning a new way of driving. I started on a simple-ish track - which was sensible - but having learned the basics, I would like to try Spark Plug on a bigger, more technical layout.

For younger and newer racers, I can see that Spark Plug will have enormous appeal. It certainly adds some pizazz to rug-racing and - with the Versus mode - a huge amount of fun. I also like the easy-to-use learning features.

Spark Plug Pros:
  • Fun
  • Family-oriented
  • Stylish
  • Simple to set-up
  • Realistic throttle-brake driving style
  • Right and left-handed format
  • Beginners' features
  • Compatible with all standard Scalextric analogue sets
  • Future functional and aesthetic updates - including DC Comics characters and 'skins'
  • Very good value
Spark Plug Cons:
  • Boost feature excessive
  • Engine sounds not loud enough
  • Brake sounds not loud enough
  • Rumble feature not available on most devices
  • Not everyone's cup of tea...
The RRP for one Spark Plug is £14.99. However, expect to see some discounts. If you don't have the powerbase and power supply, Jadlams have them cheap and there is this full package - 2 x Spark Plugs, power base + power supply - on pre-order for a ludicrously good price.]]>
.jpg SP Plugs.JPG Size: 138.86 KB  Downloads: 343


It plugs into the controller socket on the current version of the basic Scalextric analogue powerbase - the ones using the chunky plastic rectangular plugs...

.jpg SP standard2.JPG Size: 239.1 KB  Downloads: 377


Spark Plug runs with the standard Scalextric analogue power supply (P9400) plugged into the base and a combination of Spark Plugs and standard analogue controllers can be used together.

When you plug in a Spark Plug and the power supply, nothing happens until you place a car on the track - the dongle recognises the car (the wheels spin if you hold the rear off the track) and the green LED on the dongle flashes...

.jpg SP standard1.JPG Size: 218.02 KB  Downloads: 450


It's then time to download (if you haven't already) and launch the Scalextric Spark Plug app - available free from the Apple App Store and Google Play. The smart device connects to the Spark Plug dongle via Bluetooth, so the minimum requirements are: Bluetooth v4.0 BLE, Andoid OS 5 (Lollipop) or Apple iOS 8.0. Launch the app and the green LED on the dongle will eventually go solid - and you are greeted on your device by a Spark Plug animation and then the main screen, where you can choose a character or set-up your own driver profile...

.jpg IMG_0710.jpg Size: 140.4 KB  Downloads: 399
.jpg IMG_0702.jpg Size: 192.16 KB  Downloads: 368


There are plenty of ways you can customise the app, all of them accessed via the main menu...

.jpg IMG_0706.jpg Size: 181.06 KB  Downloads: 316
.jpg IMG_0707.jpg Size: 127.38 KB  Downloads: 367


And there is one alternative 'skin'...

.jpg IMG_0708.jpg Size: 172.04 KB  Downloads: 320


But the most important thing is how the Spark Plug works. This is the main screen in standard 'Single' player mode...

.jpg IMG_0700.jpg Size: 202.14 KB  Downloads: 376
.jpg IMG_0703.jpg Size: 202.08 KB  Downloads: 377


On the left is a throttle slider and on the right a brake button. The slider drops back down to zero if you lift your finger off it, the braking effect depends how long you press the button for. The picture on the left is with the car slowed slightly  with the brake - on the right it is slowed with the throttle. For those of us who have many decades of using a standard controller, it takes time and effort to get used to.

In fact, I've found it takes a completely different way of driving - instead of lifting off the throttle going into a corner, I dab the brakes (or step on them hard for a hairpin). It's not unlike using a race simulator or video racing game - and very similar to digital slot car racing using programmes like RCS64 with dynamic braking turned-off (which is how we race at WHO/digital). Essentially, it is left-foot braking a slot car using a smart device. Or it would be, if you change the screen round to the 'left-handed' setting, which - as a right-hander - I found slightly more intuitive...

.jpg IMG_0709.jpg Size: 201.4 KB  Downloads: 329


It was time to do some testing against the clock...

.jpg SP ARC One.jpg Size: 282.98 KB  Downloads: 473


This was made quite simple by the fact that Spark Plug works with the basic ARC One powerbase. The controller sockets are the right ones and the various Bluetooth connections did not interfere with each other. I set up the simple rug-racing track with the Scalextric Mini Cooper S cars (with magnets) that I use for public events (see here). I chose this set-up because it's how Spark Plug will be used by most people.

With a standard 'traditional' Scalextric controller I managed a pretty quick best lap time of 1.64 seconds. With the Spark Plug app on my 4-inch iPhone screen, I got down to 1.87 seconds, which wasn't bad. I then swapped devices and used Spark Plug with my 9.7-inch iPad - taking exactly a tenth of a second off my best on the phone - 1.77 seconds. Maybe it was because the controls were bigger?

.jpg IMG_0990.jpg Size: 697.36 KB  Downloads: 346


At the bottom of the screen is a button with Max Speed on it. This opens up a menu to set the power from 10 to 100% - ideal for beginners learning how to race. And it also gives more 'sensitivity' across the throttle range - especially useful on a slower, technical circuit. The Max Speed menu can be accessed from the main menu or from the race screen, which is ideal. Another 'learning aid' that is due with the next update of the app is an in-game option that penalises crashes and rewards drivers who stay on the track. It's a great way of training new slot car racers while have lots of fun...

.jpg IMG_0705.jpg Size: 204.09 KB  Downloads: 447
.jpg IMG_0704.jpg Size: 206.14 KB  Downloads: 336


Speaking of fun, the two-player Versus mode provides some riotous enjoyment. Added to the race screen are Boost and Resistrict buttons. Each lasts ten seconds and then recharges more slowly (Restrict taking the longest). Boost increases your own speed significantly - quite alarmingly, in fact. Restrict reduces your opponent's speed to a crawl. Pushing Boost to counter-act Restrict does work, but you really must count down the ten seconds - otherwise the power surge after the Restrict ends will definitely put your car in the scenery!

If you car is off the track for a while (lost in the scenery) or you replace it on the wrong lane, Spark Plug will tell you...

.jpg IMG_0701.jpg Size: 201.85 KB  Downloads: 326


Although there is no way I am about to hang up my traditional controllers (too many years of muscle memory invested in those), I did enjoy the challenge of getting to grips with Spark Plug and learning a new way of driving. I started on a simple-ish track - which was sensible - but having learned the basics, I would like to try Spark Plug on a bigger, more technical layout.

For younger and newer racers, I can see that Spark Plug will have enormous appeal. It certainly adds some pizazz to rug-racing and - with the Versus mode - a huge amount of fun. I also like the easy-to-use learning features.

Spark Plug Pros:
  • Fun
  • Family-oriented
  • Stylish
  • Simple to set-up
  • Realistic throttle-brake driving style
  • Right and left-handed format
  • Beginners' features
  • Compatible with all standard Scalextric analogue sets
  • Future functional and aesthetic updates - including DC Comics characters and 'skins'
  • Very good value
Spark Plug Cons:
  • Boost feature excessive
  • Engine sounds not loud enough
  • Brake sounds not loud enough
  • Rumble feature not available on most devices
  • Not everyone's cup of tea...
The RRP for one Spark Plug is £14.99. However, expect to see some discounts. If you don't have the powerbase and power supply, Jadlams have them cheap and there is this full package - 2 x Spark Plugs, power base + power supply - on pre-order for a ludicrously good price.]]> <![CDATA[HobbyZone workbench organiser]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=1087 Sat, 15 Feb 2020 16:22:50 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=1087 HobbyZone.
.jpg Organiser (1).JPG Size: 645.64 KB  Downloads: 263
.jpg Organiser (2).JPG Size: 863.85 KB  Downloads: 267


I use their workbench organiser (above) but they make a large range of modular stuff for all sorts of jobs. Not cheap but good quality and assembles with ease, service is excellent with very fast dispatch. As they are based in Poland, postage can be hefty for small individual purchases so it is best to buy everything you need in one hit.]]> HobbyZone.
.jpg Organiser (1).JPG Size: 645.64 KB  Downloads: 263
.jpg Organiser (2).JPG Size: 863.85 KB  Downloads: 267


I use their workbench organiser (above) but they make a large range of modular stuff for all sorts of jobs. Not cheap but good quality and assembles with ease, service is excellent with very fast dispatch. As they are based in Poland, postage can be hefty for small individual purchases so it is best to buy everything you need in one hit.]]>