1st-Jan-26, 09:09 PM
I’m wanting to have working street lamps around mmy track and need some advice on what i will need to run from my 240v socket any set up pics or links to equipment required much appreciated ?
12v Lighting
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3rd-Jan-26, 02:13 PM
I am assuming that your lights will be LEDs which consume the best part of bugger all electricity. In which case all you need is the simplest plug in transformer, cheap as chips on eBay SAMPLE LINK but there are loads out there.
3rd-Jan-26, 04:50 PM
I'm in the USA so our wall outlets are 110v. Like CMOTD stated, I use a separate transformer for the LEDs. To build 'robust-ness' into the system calculate the power needed to drive the LEDs then double it to find a suitable transformer. This is just anecdotal and not based on any hard and fast rules.
I used aluminum tubing for the poles. The tubing segments were all cut to length. An 'uber scivver' type blade was used to score the tubing by using the blade to roll the tubing on a hard smooth surface. A scrap of 1/4" thick balsa wood sheet was cut to get the 'bend' in the light pole. A rat tail file was used to put a groove in the balsa form. The balsa form base was the 'index' point so that putting the tubing flush with the base all poles would be identical. The reflectors are disposable soft contact lens trays which had their flanges removed. An interference fit hole was drilled into the end of the 'reflector' so as to mount it to the 'pole'. The refectors were spray painted silver.
A bit of circuit board was cut to receive 3 bright white LEDs in series with an appropriate resistor. This lighting was attached to wiring and fed into the reflector-pole combo with about 4" to spare out of the other end. No other support is needed, in my case, to hold the lighting into the reflector. My transformer pushes 12v. Online calculators will be helpful, here. Make up as many street lights as needed. Drill interference fit holes into the layout to receive the street lamp poles then run wiring to connect them together. I have a separate switch for the lighting.
Always put the lighting on the inside of curves! If there is a place where drivers tend to de-slot then don't put lighting there!
I used aluminum tubing for the poles. The tubing segments were all cut to length. An 'uber scivver' type blade was used to score the tubing by using the blade to roll the tubing on a hard smooth surface. A scrap of 1/4" thick balsa wood sheet was cut to get the 'bend' in the light pole. A rat tail file was used to put a groove in the balsa form. The balsa form base was the 'index' point so that putting the tubing flush with the base all poles would be identical. The reflectors are disposable soft contact lens trays which had their flanges removed. An interference fit hole was drilled into the end of the 'reflector' so as to mount it to the 'pole'. The refectors were spray painted silver.
A bit of circuit board was cut to receive 3 bright white LEDs in series with an appropriate resistor. This lighting was attached to wiring and fed into the reflector-pole combo with about 4" to spare out of the other end. No other support is needed, in my case, to hold the lighting into the reflector. My transformer pushes 12v. Online calculators will be helpful, here. Make up as many street lights as needed. Drill interference fit holes into the layout to receive the street lamp poles then run wiring to connect them together. I have a separate switch for the lighting.
Always put the lighting on the inside of curves! If there is a place where drivers tend to de-slot then don't put lighting there!
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