[chrisguyw]

Munter, great minds think alike.     Here is my take on rear support.



A 1/16” U brace soldered in place as are the bearings.

Hi Mike, Next time you use these bushings, (especially when using a very narrow chassis) , place the bushing "relief" to the inboard side,.......this will slightly widen the effective support surfaces  of the bushing on the axle, improving the resistance to twisting/tilting of the axle, and therefore improving both bushing and gear wear.



Cheers
Chris Walker

[Kevan]

I did eyeball that myself and thought the same thing, including pushing the bushings out as far as possible.

[munter]

Bearings in, bearings out......building really narrow (scale accurate) GP cars is challenging. 
Either placement works well enough but how much body work needs to be removed to get the body placed correctly can often be a factor in your decision.

The lotus 18 falls into the "medium width" group of available bodies in my experience.

I look forward to seeing the end result.

[chrisguyw]

I am starting a 1/24 Cox Ferrari 158 for a customer,....and, have started with the wheels.

 While the Cox cars all had wonderful cast magnesium wheels, most had rather slab like looking (too thick) outer rims, and I was looking to improve on that, so that they look a touch more like the real 1964 158 wheels which did have nice bead detail.

Below is the  stock Cox Ferrari wheel, really very nice, but a very thick/slab like  outer rim.......



And I wanted something more like this..............



So,......into the lathe, a little cutting, and a bit of paint, and this is the result,.......(original in the centre)

The colour does look a bit washed out, but is does look closer to the wheels above



Still tons to go........

Cheers
Chris Walker

[munter]

That is definitely an improvement, Chris.

[mickey thumbs]

The Lotus is coming along. The body is a work in progress to say the least. But the chassis is finished. I swapped the provided 18K motor for a Scaleauto 25K. It has a shorter shaft so the stock motor mounts didn’t work. I bent them back flat and soldered the motor in place and set the gear mesh using spacers between the rear bearings. 8/27 ratio.  A front axle tube was installed as Chris suggested. 
Preliminary runs of chassis suggest it will be near the Policar 70’s F1 cars, limited by its high COG. A little lead under the chassis should help that.

           

[Kevan]

Nice little motor 

[munter]

A repop for a mate who wants a Pre 65 class winner .

This is the first slush cast before refitting into the female mould for part two to be poured.

   
   
   
   

[KensRedZed]

I bought this Strombecker Ford J-car body at a recent flea market for $15 Cdn (8 quid). It seemed in reasonable shape at a quick glance.

   

I took it home and dissassembled it. Then dropped it into a cleaning solution. It's in better shape than I first thought. Most of the red pen marks came out. It still had the original rear window which is rare to find.

   
   
   

The wheel arches are clean, and were never touched by a file or any other nonsense.

   

The interior has nice chrome radiators on each side.

   

I'm not exactly sure what to do with it yet. Ideas are brewing.

Thank you very kindly for looking.
Ken

[munter]

Nice find, Ken.

I am sure you will sort something out with that excellent starting point.

I am no expert on the Ford J but did the model with the front tusks come after this shape?