[StuBeeDoo]

I have some 1/32 Airfix kits I plan on building into slot cars, using various chassis I have kicking about.  The last kit I built was a static Ferrari F1 car, about 40 years ago, so I'm a bit out of date on skills and knowledge.

What are your recommendations for adhesive?  I've got several - Humbrol Liquid Poly, Revell Contacta Professional (....IIRC), to name two.  I also use Superglue and plumbers solvent weld (yes, really!) for repairs.

Thanks in advance,
Stuart.

[KensRedZed]

Hi Stuart,

Everyone has a different approach. I prefer 5-minute epoxy for my Airfix, or other scratch build kits.

   
   

I even glue the motors in with 5-minute epoxy. And the body posts, etc.

   

Cheers,
Ken

[Kevan]

I've got to admit I hate putting airfix kits together for this #1 reason, easy to put together but even easier to make it look a right dog's dinner.

[KensRedZed]

Hey, my dog objects to that statement. She sure loves her chicken dinner. 

[Kevan]

I watched one guy on YouTube and he made it look dead easy and no mess, the thin glue but applied with a fine brush which makes sense as it runs everywhere if you apply it direct and you're guaranteed to get fingerprints where you don't want them.
...so I may be tempted to try this route then reinforce internally afterwards with something less runny and ruinous.

[Kevan]

Oh yes, and Plumbers solvent is designed for PVC so won't work on some plastics but has the added bonus of having a filler base material so could work great for that internal reinforcing.

[StuBeeDoo]

Ken.....  What a coincidence!  One of the kits I referred to is a TR.  

And I also have 5-minute epoxy, but didn't mention it in my query.  Looks like I'm sorted, then.  

[KensRedZed]

Stuart,

I'm certain you know how to use 5-minute epoxy so please pardon my rambling. I'm 62 and have been using it since I was 15-years old. Mostly on balsa planes way back then.

Here's what I've learned. Pay the extra money for a good brand epoxy at a hobby store. Not the newest brands from the big hardware stores.

1) Prep the areas to mate by removing paint/chrome etc. Rough/scratch up the surface with coarse sand paper or the back of a hobby knife. 

2) Make sure that the mix of A and B are as equal as possible.

3) Doesn't matter what the instructions say. You have one minute to mix it so make it fast. You want to work with it while it's thin (thick epoxy strings like crazy). Stir it quickly with a popsicle stick. Then squeegie it to one side and stir again. Repeat several times until the glue is slightly milky white without any totally clear areas. Hit a timer when you start mixing so you actually know. Make sure to mix the glue on poster grade super shiny paper or cardboard, or the paper drinks the thin part of the glue and it thickens up fast. I cut up and use thick shiny brochures.

4) Choose the right applicator. Body posts are okay with popsicle sticks. However, windows, bumpers, and finely detailed parts require these microbrushes. They come in various sizes. I have boxes of them. Cheap insurance when you consider they help prevent build/wreckage.

   

One last thing. Don't apply glue with the mixing stick. It's tainted. Set it aside and apply the mixed glue to the car with a clean new stick.

I was the first person in my club to epoxy motors into scratch built chassis back in 2018. Everyone thought I was nuts. Today almost everyone in the club epoxies their motors in. Who knew?

Good luck!
Ken

[StuBeeDoo]

Thank you very much for your insight, Ken.  

The next time I'm in my local model shop, I'll see if they have something similar to those brushes - I doubt they will have the exact ones, as they are American.

[StuBeeDoo]

The next time I'm in my local model shop, I'll see if they have something similar to those brushes

They do.     I bought these.  A box of 20 for £2.99.  They do a box of 100, as well.

   

........By a company by the name of Expo Tools.