Bought a new Printer

GT40Racer · 28th-Sep-22, 11:07 PM

Morning all
I have finally taking the plunge and bought myself a resin printer. I borrowed a Anycubic Photon of a friend and played with that for a couple of months and decided to get an Anycubie Photon Mono X2. Its the Mono X with a few tweaks (little bit bigger screen and resolution)

I have printed a couple of bodies - (photos soon) and some drivers and also some miniatures that I found on the 3D file sharing sites.

I am super impressed with the printer. So far I have use a green castable resin (came free with printer) and Anycubic Tough Resin and Anycubic Craftsman resin.

I have had good results. I think the tough resin by itself might be a bit too flexible for a body. What have others found? I printed an ERA body (I modified the file from Nimrod) and post curing found I could squeeze sides together - that may be ok but may be an issue with handling / marshalling etc. I plan to experiment with a mix of the craftsman and tough resin today to see how that goes.

If anyone would like to share tips, settings, resin mixes etc I am keen to learn.

cheers
David

Kevan · 28th-Sep-22, 11:27 PM

For bodyshells I wouldn't start with anything less than Siraya Blue + Tenacious or the new Siraya Blu Nylon. Normal 'TOUGH' resins aren't crash resistant enough.

GT40Racer · 29th-Sep-22, 12:55 AM

Thanks
I am guessing you mix Siraya Blue + Tenacious together - any set ratio

I haven't found a reference to the Blu Nylon here in Australia will have to keep an eye out for it. Do you think that the Blu Nylon would be suitable for a chassis?

I am going to print a chassis I made up with the Tough resin to see how it goes.

cheers
David

Kevan · 29th-Sep-22, 11:09 AM

Resin printed pods work well but I'd personally steer clear of resin printed chassis, keeping it dead flat will be a pain. FDM printed chassis every day for me.

Blu/Tenacious in 75/25 should work well but I add a little normal resin just to add colour so you can see the print surface.

GT40Racer · 29th-Sep-22, 12:06 PM

Here are the first couple of prints
This is an ERA Type B that Vlad did. I modified it by adding some details.
Happy with the outcome. Not sure it is perfect but happy with how it looks.
Printed in 1/24 and 1/32 scale

GT40Racer · 29th-Sep-22, 12:08 PM

(29th-Sep-22, 11:09 AM)Kevan Wrote: Resin printed pods work well but I'd personally steer clear of resin printed chassis, keeping it dead flat will be a pain. FDM printed chassis every day for me.

Hadn't thought about that. What about it I printed upside down that way the supports will be on the inside of the chassis rather than the bottom
I don't have a FDM printer maybe I will get one. Not sure. Will depend on how my 3D design skills go.

cheers
David

Kevan · 30th-Sep-22, 12:35 PM

For pods and chassis print straight on the bed, it'll save a lot of cleaning up and they'll be flat. Like I said a resin chassis will warp in the hot weather or if sitting in a pit box in a hot car in summer...ask me how I know Angry

...that goes for resin printed bodyshells too!

GT40Racer · 30th-Sep-22, 12:56 PM

Well that doesn't sound like it was a pleasant experience for you :)

Maybe I should use the dental cantable resin its supposed to have high heat tolerance :) Wrench

Though it may actually be suitable to make a buck for vac forming windscreens if it can handle a bit of heat.....

Kevan · 30th-Sep-22, 01:32 PM

Hi temp resins are very brittle...don't presume before reading up on resins and resin tests Yes

GT40Racer · 30th-Sep-22, 11:51 PM

(30th-Sep-22, 01:32 PM)Kevan Wrote: Hi temp resins are very brittle...don't presume before reading up on resins and resin tests

Oh I have worked that out. I printed some wheel inserts as a test print. The fine rim edges crumbled in my hands while I was test fitting them.

I found this video useful. https://youtu.be/Gqb_-IIN_AM

:)