14th-Mar-20, 07:35 AM
I’m pretty sure what most people running these Classic F1 cars do is to reduce the voltage to the track down to a level where the cars behave nicely.
An alternative for the FF motors is to use a less powerful version. I have a box of FF-050SH-10200 motors that I got direct from China. They are rated at 14.7k rpm @ 12 volts. They are a good option for running RTR cars with FF motors alongside standard 18k Mabuchi S cans on the same voltage - eg on a home analogue or digital track. There is another option with the ARC Air and ARC Pro systems to reduce the ‘Max Power’ setting in the software for each lane or car.
That sorts the power, the poor braking characteristics of the FF motors is something the driver has to work around and adjust their driving style to. Playing with gear ratio can help a little and some controller brake circuits will be marginally more effective. If everyone is racing a car with an FF motor, everyone has the same challenge!
An alternative for the FF motors is to use a less powerful version. I have a box of FF-050SH-10200 motors that I got direct from China. They are rated at 14.7k rpm @ 12 volts. They are a good option for running RTR cars with FF motors alongside standard 18k Mabuchi S cans on the same voltage - eg on a home analogue or digital track. There is another option with the ARC Air and ARC Pro systems to reduce the ‘Max Power’ setting in the software for each lane or car.
That sorts the power, the poor braking characteristics of the FF motors is something the driver has to work around and adjust their driving style to. Playing with gear ratio can help a little and some controller brake circuits will be marginally more effective. If everyone is racing a car with an FF motor, everyone has the same challenge!

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