4th-Feb-20, 10:32 PM
Excellent article, very helpful with the number of pics. I am sure it will be very helpful for a lot of people. - We are "grubs" down-under too; at least in the shakey isle.
I too have wondered why NSR chose UNC4-40 instead of the slightly smaller M2.5 grub screw (M1.3 head)
The common size of the tool for tightening is one saving grace.
I have done the odd wheel too - I used M2.5 as the boss on many wheels is so narrow these days, the hole for the larger UNC4-40 doesn't leave much meat on the inside of the boss
Alan - one thing I often read is just the opposite of what you wrote about stainless steel screws. A number of guys say "don't use stainless steel ones, they are too soft; use the black hardened steel ones"
Personally, ..... I use both.... haven't had a problem with either type - but I use torque wrenches - Slot.it and ScaleAuto.
Interested in your further thoughts on the subject.
ps, Good tip about not using pointy ended grubs, I have seen a couple of people come unstuck there.
Cup End also grip better than pointy end due to the larger surface area of contact.
I too have wondered why NSR chose UNC4-40 instead of the slightly smaller M2.5 grub screw (M1.3 head)
The common size of the tool for tightening is one saving grace.
I have done the odd wheel too - I used M2.5 as the boss on many wheels is so narrow these days, the hole for the larger UNC4-40 doesn't leave much meat on the inside of the boss
Alan - one thing I often read is just the opposite of what you wrote about stainless steel screws. A number of guys say "don't use stainless steel ones, they are too soft; use the black hardened steel ones"
Personally, ..... I use both.... haven't had a problem with either type - but I use torque wrenches - Slot.it and ScaleAuto.
Interested in your further thoughts on the subject.
ps, Good tip about not using pointy ended grubs, I have seen a couple of people come unstuck there.
Cup End also grip better than pointy end due to the larger surface area of contact.

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