19th-Jul-25, 11:10 PM
I humbly thank you, Kevan.
Part 3: Installing the guide and braid.
The different guides have different plate thicknesses. The aluminum chassis are designed for the NSR 4859 deep wood guide. Since the front axle is not adjustable. This is the only guide unless otherwise specified.
https://www.professormotor.com/product-p/nsr4859.htm
This next part will come from two different builds. It's hard to hold several parts while taking pics at the same time. Both builds come to the same conclusion.
A small 3mm spacer is required for the guide stem to take up the excess space above the chassis. Rolling a knife across some plastic tubing on the table works great.
The guide is installed and ready for the braid.
The tools I use for this are a small box cutter. Small flat head screw driver, and two (only one pictured) Allan key drivers with 2x3mm set screws already sitting on them. Two lengths of Slot.It competition braid cut to about 23mm long.
The braid is inserted into the guide. Then the knife is used to open the sock enough to get the screwdriver in, and open it wider. The folded end of the motor wire is inserted into the inside portion of the sock. The set screw goes outside the sock at the top of the guide and into the hollow.
Having the wire to the inside of the guide minimizes the wire travel during cornering. Keeping a layer of braid between the wire and set screw prevents the screw from cutting the wire. Taping the wires properly is important so the guide returns to neutral when the car has an off.
It's a perfect braid sandwich when the tires are the right diameter.
The car runs. Bumpers, chrome pen, inserts, driver, glass, etc are next. This last part takes longer than everything else.
Thank you very kindly for looking,
Ken
Part 3: Installing the guide and braid.
The different guides have different plate thicknesses. The aluminum chassis are designed for the NSR 4859 deep wood guide. Since the front axle is not adjustable. This is the only guide unless otherwise specified.
https://www.professormotor.com/product-p/nsr4859.htm
This next part will come from two different builds. It's hard to hold several parts while taking pics at the same time. Both builds come to the same conclusion.
A small 3mm spacer is required for the guide stem to take up the excess space above the chassis. Rolling a knife across some plastic tubing on the table works great.
The guide is installed and ready for the braid.
The tools I use for this are a small box cutter. Small flat head screw driver, and two (only one pictured) Allan key drivers with 2x3mm set screws already sitting on them. Two lengths of Slot.It competition braid cut to about 23mm long.
The braid is inserted into the guide. Then the knife is used to open the sock enough to get the screwdriver in, and open it wider. The folded end of the motor wire is inserted into the inside portion of the sock. The set screw goes outside the sock at the top of the guide and into the hollow.
Having the wire to the inside of the guide minimizes the wire travel during cornering. Keeping a layer of braid between the wire and set screw prevents the screw from cutting the wire. Taping the wires properly is important so the guide returns to neutral when the car has an off.
It's a perfect braid sandwich when the tires are the right diameter.
The car runs. Bumpers, chrome pen, inserts, driver, glass, etc are next. This last part takes longer than everything else.
Thank you very kindly for looking,
Ken
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