16th-Jun-19, 07:02 AM
Next opportunity to test under racing conditions will be 30th June, so quite a wait I'm afraid.
Also, bear in mind I'm a relative novice at 1/32. Last time I raced regularly at a club in this scale was over 50 years ago.
Recent experience is over just two meetings, with a bunch of second hand cars ranging from old 'rebuilt basket-case' Scalextric Porsche 962's and GT40's that were given to me as a 'box of useful bits', through to a Ninco Lightning Megane. June 30th will be my third meeting where I might be running Scalextric 'Resistant' Nascars (black windows, no interiors, no magnets, stock tyres - I don't know any different.) I've a lot of catching up to do
A couple of other things I've found with the Fly Capri is:
1) I should have trapped the black/red motor lead under the stub axle before I glued the motor in place. It was rubbing the front wheel and also putting the guide flag out of kilter, making the car difficult to re-slot.
2) The stub axles can be tightened up to reduce play too.
I slipped a screwdriver blade down between the motor and head of the stub axle and whilst holding the wheel in against the chassis, pushed the head of the axle tight up against the stub axle pivot. I then slipped a knife blade into the 'too tight now' gap to ease off the friction just a tad and now have much smoother rotating and less sloppy front wheels, as well as having them in a fixed plane.
There's just enough of a gap to get a tiny drop of light oil in there to help things along too.
It'll be interesting to see if any of this has made a difference - and whether it will be better, or worse.
I might see if I can radius the edge of the rear tyres too, to help them slide rather than dig in.
Also, bear in mind I'm a relative novice at 1/32. Last time I raced regularly at a club in this scale was over 50 years ago.
Recent experience is over just two meetings, with a bunch of second hand cars ranging from old 'rebuilt basket-case' Scalextric Porsche 962's and GT40's that were given to me as a 'box of useful bits', through to a Ninco Lightning Megane. June 30th will be my third meeting where I might be running Scalextric 'Resistant' Nascars (black windows, no interiors, no magnets, stock tyres - I don't know any different.) I've a lot of catching up to do
A couple of other things I've found with the Fly Capri is:
1) I should have trapped the black/red motor lead under the stub axle before I glued the motor in place. It was rubbing the front wheel and also putting the guide flag out of kilter, making the car difficult to re-slot.
2) The stub axles can be tightened up to reduce play too.
I slipped a screwdriver blade down between the motor and head of the stub axle and whilst holding the wheel in against the chassis, pushed the head of the axle tight up against the stub axle pivot. I then slipped a knife blade into the 'too tight now' gap to ease off the friction just a tad and now have much smoother rotating and less sloppy front wheels, as well as having them in a fixed plane.
There's just enough of a gap to get a tiny drop of light oil in there to help things along too.
It'll be interesting to see if any of this has made a difference - and whether it will be better, or worse.
I might see if I can radius the edge of the rear tyres too, to help them slide rather than dig in.
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