21st-Mar-21, 09:06 AM
The Ninco 'Proshock' independent suspension is similar...
It is more plug & play that the SRC version - the suspension units were available in 'hard', 'medium' and 'soft' (colour coded) and they simply clicked into place on compatible chassis - the knob on the chassis and the fork onto the double axle bushing.
The Proshock chassis were the later rally ones - including the final version of the Impreza (the 2005-6 'Hawkeye' facelift), the Renault Clio S1600, Peugeot 307, Ford Focus WRC, Mitsubishi Lancer, Citroën C4, Lancia Rally 037, Lancia Stratos, Ford Sierra and - of course - all the Rally Raid cars.
The suspension works well over the bumpy track joins, precipitous crests, tight corners and roughed-up track surfaces common on a slot rally track. When I experimented with the three different dampers, I ended up with slightly different settings on different cars for the same track - softer at the front / harder at the back seems to work best on the Subaru, although mediums all round (or soft at the front, medium at the back) worked better on the Lancia 037. It will depend on the track characteristics too, what else you've done to the car etc.
I also have two Slot.it Group C Porsches for club racing - one I run on Scalextric Sport track with quite soft suspension, the other is run on wood track and has no suspension, but the pod screws loosened. Those set-ups work best for me. As with any component, it's a case of experimenting and testing and seeing what set-up suits your driving style, the car and the track. If you're using the same club track week-in week-out, that's some serious data that can be gleaned and analysed. If - like us at WHO - it's a different layout every time, you end up building a good all-rounder and spend the evening (or day) learning how to maximise performance more by adjusting your driving than by tweaking the car.
It is more plug & play that the SRC version - the suspension units were available in 'hard', 'medium' and 'soft' (colour coded) and they simply clicked into place on compatible chassis - the knob on the chassis and the fork onto the double axle bushing.
The Proshock chassis were the later rally ones - including the final version of the Impreza (the 2005-6 'Hawkeye' facelift), the Renault Clio S1600, Peugeot 307, Ford Focus WRC, Mitsubishi Lancer, Citroën C4, Lancia Rally 037, Lancia Stratos, Ford Sierra and - of course - all the Rally Raid cars.
The suspension works well over the bumpy track joins, precipitous crests, tight corners and roughed-up track surfaces common on a slot rally track. When I experimented with the three different dampers, I ended up with slightly different settings on different cars for the same track - softer at the front / harder at the back seems to work best on the Subaru, although mediums all round (or soft at the front, medium at the back) worked better on the Lancia 037. It will depend on the track characteristics too, what else you've done to the car etc.
I also have two Slot.it Group C Porsches for club racing - one I run on Scalextric Sport track with quite soft suspension, the other is run on wood track and has no suspension, but the pod screws loosened. Those set-ups work best for me. As with any component, it's a case of experimenting and testing and seeing what set-up suits your driving style, the car and the track. If you're using the same club track week-in week-out, that's some serious data that can be gleaned and analysed. If - like us at WHO - it's a different layout every time, you end up building a good all-rounder and spend the evening (or day) learning how to maximise performance more by adjusting your driving than by tweaking the car.
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