[Scuderia_Turini]

I just noticed that Pendle Slot Racing are selling a Pinion Puller/Pusher that resembles the hard to find Ninco unit. I have a Ninco unit so not planning to purchase but thought it might be of use to some peeps here.  Comes with 4 useful driver tools for 14.95 pounds.

https://www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/pinio...ivers.html   

I have no connection with Pendle S-R other than as a customer.

Leo

[Fluff]

Hi Leo, I purchased one of those sets some time ago and it works ok ,the puller/pusher is a little offline in the tapping of the thread but as I said works ok 

Steve

[Savage GT]

The ninco unit is a good piece of kit , simple and effective so copying it is a good move.
I have had my ninco one ever since I started tinkering, the only modification I found useful was to add a small piece of brass tube to the "pusher" bar to help it locate/stop slipping from the armature.

[Johnno]

Currently browsing Armchair Racer now and am looking at the Pinion Press/Pullers. Wondering what other people might recommend that has no issues requiring tweaking as mentioned above, after all paying these prices for a tool I shouldn't have to tweak it to fix the manufacturing faults.

Cheers

[woodcote]

I have the Ninco tool and have been very happy with it. I haven't needed to modify it in any way to do what I need it to do - remove and fit pinions without any fuss.

Looking on the Armchair Racer site, the Model Craft PTK4000 appears very similar to the Ninco tool and to the Gaugemaster copy.

[Nonfractal]

I have a genuine Ninco tool that I'm ok with.

Some problems:
Not intuitive. I've seen novice racers use this upside down and destroy their motor. 
Alignment of the shaft to the locator hole is not easy. 
(Damage the commutator if you are heavy handed)
Close-fitting pinions are hard to remove because the claw part if the tool can't get behind the pinion.
More often than not, the motor will have to come out if the pod to get to the pinion because the tool is:
- Too narrow overall to go around the pod. 
- Too wide at the puller end to get past the pod and behind the pinion.

The Ninco tool will chop into the end-bell bearing cover (NSR long can) so requires a file or plate to protect the can while using the tool.
There is no way to easily set the tool to push a new pinion to the same position as the one you just removed.

I've often thought that the pull and push should be separate tools which would make it easier to use each. 
Threaded tools are just soooooo slooooow!  OK if you are not in a hurry but if you are doing an enduro, every wasted second hurts.

I've had several attempts at designing a new tool but really have not cracked that nut yet.
Inspiration is being taken from mastic guns and wine bottle cork pullers.

Alan W

[Gordon Steadman]

I ordered this set from Pendles when it was featured here.

All the drivers have been in the box since they arrived as the one for SlotiT grubscrews immediately rounded off. The puller/presser is a bit grotty frankly. Alignment, as noted, is not great. I've gone back to my chosen method of putting pinions on - in the vice or a hammer! - and the puller is OK but not as good as the one I have designed for RC cars I think.

Cheap it's true but still not worth it in my opinion.

[BAracer]

I bought a set previously.

On my first attempt I put the motor in the pusher the wrong way and spoilt a brand new Flat 6...any tips on how to eliminate all the play I have introduced into the shaft?!?

The alignment of the tool is not perfect but is good enough for the limited use I give it. Might put the Ninco one on my Christmas list, the two in one design works for me, and a better engineered tools would be nicer to use.

[Nonfractal]

On my first attempt I put the motor in the pusher the wrong way and spoilt a brand new Flat 6...any tips on how to eliminate all the play I have introduced into the shaft?!?

I ruined an Avant republic the same way.  
If you have play in the shaft, chances are that you've damaged the commutator or pushed one of the bearings out of its socket. 
You  might take the chance to use this as an opportunity to open a motor and have a look at the damage close up. 
It may be possible to fix it with some washers.
Opening a long can motor requires you to file off the tabs that hold the end bell in place so you'll likely have to glue it back in place 

Alan