[Graham]

Probably the quickest build ever 

Arrived on Thursday, decorated on Friday, raced on Saturday's "Great North Slot Race" at Manchester.

   


Came 9th, which against the locals was quite good for me.

   

[Kevan]

What do you think of it?

[Graham]

What do you think of it?

I think the approving reaction from others was the best answer, considering the car ran with the original Super Soft tyres (because I did not have the correct size Ultra’s to fit), it was mega fast 

With better tyres and deeper guide, I was certain to have run it even faster.

[Kevan]

Last week was Slot Rally and two of the guys drove MSC Metro 6R4's.

I bought a red & yellow one years ago and removed the bodyshell with the intention of making a 'proper' chassis for it.
...it's been gathering dust for years

I was most impressed how well the two went last week so finally decided to take another look at the original bolt together chassis.
It's nowt special but I thought why not just put it together and set it up.

The axle blocks are only screwed on so raised the rear blocks with 1mm NSR axle spacers.

Guide is a Slotingplus Sport in a brass tube.

Standard motor and gears.
The crown gear has axle spacers between it and the axle block to keep a good gearmesh.

A chunk of lead glued to the sides of the chassis, level with the bottom of the chassis.

The first pic is putting it back together.  The screws holding the front section of the chassis onto the main section are loose by about a third of a turn with a dab of superglue on the top in the nut to stop it loosening.

I drilled the rear axle blocks through with a 1.8mm drill for longer M2 screws.

   

The second pic is now ready to run.

   

I might get some wheel inserts printed for it to finish the job

   

The upshot is 'it's a flier!!!' I can't believe how well it goes, who needs a fancy adjustable motor pod 

[chrisguyw]

Finished the chassis for the SCX Chaparral in posts 832/833/838.

A simple single rail design, done with .047 wire which is more than strong enough, while allowing for nice torsional flex.

This will be powered by an 18K 050 motor which will comply with the owners club rules,...on to the bodywork.

Cheers
Chris Walker

[Anthony B]

Really nice Chris!

[dazee]

Our club owner had purchased alot of parts stock from a company that went out of business in an effort to keep supporting clubs in Japan.  In this stock he had a number of chassis parts for what was described as 1/24 C car.
   

It is a hefty chassis and not a great deal of adjustment to suite different cars.  However, it does seem a perfect size for the Hasegawa 1/24 C car series of models.
Additional parts have been collected to make a roller.  In this you can see the wheels I have put on the rear have a bit of room, but this I found later was due to the rear axle holders being fitted in the wrong orientation.  In this setting there is no way the motor gets close enough to engage the drive gear.
   


For my build I have chosen the Italya Nissan R90VP, for no other reason than I did not want to do another Mercedes C9 build as this is what I use in the 1/28 race series here.  Now with the axle holders in the correct orientation there is little room between the tires and chassis.
   

This kit splits the body in 2 and I guess for ease should be glued into a one piece.  However, I wanted to try something different and after a little trial and error have printed some tiny magnet holders and glued to the 2 halves,  Makes it real easy to quickly get to the back for any changes in tires or gears etc.  Time will tell if this was a good idea.
   

I expect this race series will have a good deal of carnage.  The twisty course provides a good deal of collisions for 1/28 scale.  The 1/24 scale is a really tight fit for the track.  Reports from other members so far in testing are that due to the weight it is very stable and gets times in the mid to low 4's  (1/28 cars in last race were getting mid to high 4's)

For this series the Cheetah motor is the only one permitted.

[Anthony B]

Currently on my bench