[Kevan]

I last made one of these in 2021 and was never happy with it.

I bought new resin for the first time in 4 years and this wasn't on the market back then.

I modified the Anglia file that I last made, that had a radiator and oil cooler on the front and straighter wheel arches.
That car also had an inline setup.

Bodyshell is 3D resin - Siraya Magna Durable.

Chassis has no adjustable pod but fairly flexible and printed in Overture Super PLA+.

Wheels are also printed in the same filament (with resin printed Minilite inserts about 2mm thick).

Driver(s) are resin printed in what was left of the old resin.

Motor is a £2 china NSR 25k motor and securely glued in the pod with super glue and bicarb powder.

Interior is temporary until I paint the bodyshell hence no windows yet but I want to test it at the club tomorrow... maybe race it.

...bodyshell is 54mm wide, 9mm wide NSR zero graining Rally tyres, 54mm across the tyre walls. This is for our Small Sports/Saloons class which has 9mm tyre width and 54mm across the tyres max limits.

   

   

   

   

   
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That was printed at 0.05mm on a Anycubic Photon Mono X.

It took a day to calibrate this new resin, it needed 5 second exposure time (at 75% power). Normally resins I've used only needed up to 2 seconds exposure times.

...I was super chuffed that it printed so cleanly first time... ignoring the little bit missed under the back bumper, a few more supports will help here.

[Kevan]

I learned a few lessons with this one:

• it's perfectly OK to overexpose the layers... better than failed supports
  
• This resin needs a lot of cleaning in alcohol
  
• thin walls will still print but feel soft... leave the print on it's supports after cleaning in alcohol and wait 24 hours minimum for the alcohol to evaporate out of the resin and let the resin dry thoroughly
  
• part cure the resin whilst the supports are still in place, it'll reduce warping as the resin cures/shrinks slightly
  

Bodyshell mods can take all day (or night) to 'repair' by software, so I found it's MUCH quicker to export the bodyshell and added mods as a single file with the added bits (wheel arches, radiator, bonnet/boot thickeners etc.) and let the printer see it as one single file rather than multiple smaller ones (this will make future changes much easier too)

Waiting for software to 'repair' modified meshes can take longer than doing the actual print.  I prefer Netfabb to do the repair work as it doesn't affect the quality of the original file like 3D Builder does.

[Kevan]

I tested it, spent an hour adjusting it after it started handling funny on left handers and sounding like the inside rear tyre was lifting and hopping.

Much adjusting and testing and time also spent on one of our Rally stages I found the problem, a loose rear axle tube.  It needs gluing in situ but fixed it firmly enough to race...
...3 heat wins and overall class win on it's debut against a tough opponent too 

I'll post a video tomorrow

[Kevan]

Pre-race testing...

[KensRedZed]

It runs well. Congrats!

There is one car/body I have not been able to find. I'm not yet ready to invest in a 3D printer just for one car.

[Kevan]

The beauty of a 3D printer is you can make a whole lot more than bodyshells 

[Kevan]

I don't enjoy painting at all... this'll do fine for me.

It's got a coat of acrylic varnish on it, drying right now.

I still have to tidy up the inside edges of the windows to remove signs of printer supports but the body as it stands has no finishing whatsoever, no filler, no sanding.

   

[Kevan]

Windows...1,2,3,4... Ready to play... What's the day?

Who remembers that from the 70's? (Play school)

This is the best way to get minimalist windows and minimum weight... but a lot of faffing 

...but why not, this car has grown on me