[BAracer]

So I thought I would clever and buy a roll of Pendle copper racing braid, and cut off lengths as required. 

The first car I have used it on seems to be shedding the occasional strand, and I am sensing a small amount of pickup jerkiness in the car. 

Is there some prep of the braiding I should have done before it ran on the track? 

Is there a more robust braid out there I should consider? 

Is there a 'best' shape to bend it into to deal with normal plastic track joints? 

Cheers

[woodcote]

Jason has a nice pic (and explanation) under Braids here: http://slotracer.online/manual/basics.html#maintenance

And yes, that does make a difference on all track types. With digital, an occasional drop of INOX MX3 helps too. I also tend to keep the ‘splay’ at the ends to a minimum for digital.

The braid shouldn’t be shedding - that will cause shorts on a digital powerbase. I haven’t used the Pendle braid. My go to braid is either Mitoos copper or the stuff we sell in the WHO shop, which is this: https://www.copperbraid.co.uk/slot-car-braids/

We find the digital lane changers can add extra wear to the braids (as can less than perfect track joins) so recommend more robust braids to avoid shedding, shorts and spoiling everyone’s fun.

[BAracer]

Excellent links...should have looked around this place first!

[Nonfractal]

Keep 'em clean (zippo) and well shaped. Check before every race.
 Cut at 90 degrees just before the end of the guide blade. Anything other than 90 causes the braid to split apart and shed.
 Inox , even for analogue racing. 
 NSR 0.2 untinned race braid is my braid of choice for all types of racing (everyone has their own preference)
 Ensure the braid has a little vertical give at the front by creating slightly curved braid exit from the guide (not a hard 90 degrees) 
 A hard front edge can trigger straight line "W-T-F?" Deslots when it hits track imperfections at high speed.
 Be sure never to allow your eyelets or set screws (whichever you use for cable fixing) to protrude below the track facing surface of the guide.

 Splay the braids  out from the centreline of the car if you are racing on track where the rails are wider than scalextric
Use your setup plate to ensure that the braid is contacting the rail surfaces as you would expect. 
When changing a braid, change both ! (Don't be a cheapskate with your  braids)  
Alan

[CMOTD]

Apart from the obvious can someone explain the difference between plain copper braids and the tinned copper variety please? Is one better than the other for different types of tracks?

[Nonfractal]

Apart from the obvious can someone explain the difference between plain copper braids and the tinned copper variety please? Is one better than the other for different types of tracks?

Brian, 
Tinned braids are constructed from strands that are coated in a metal similar to that used for soldering, prior to the braiding process. 
One better than the other? 
I have not found one  to work better than the other on steel rail tracks. 
I'm sure others will have opinions. 
Alan

[Tamar]

Hello Brian and all others

Besides the obvious...obvious, the next obvious difference is that plated (tinned) braids are harder/stiffer than "unplated" braids
As such 

1. they have a slower ware rate
   
2. they have more "spring load" in the braids
   
3. they have less drag
   

I'll leave it up to your wisdom/opinion to see where and if these properties would be beneficial over un plated braids 

With kind regards
Tamar

[slotloco]

Brian, 
Tinned braids are constructed from strands that are coated in a metal similar to that used for soldering, prior to the braiding process. 
One better than the other? 
I have not found one  to work better than the other on steel rail tracks. 
I'm sure others will have opinions. 
Alan

All the good information has already been given, but we need extra humour in these dark days.

Well I can say with near 100% certainty, that tinned copper is definitely better (on almost 50% of cars), and plain copper is clearly better (on the remainder.)
I know this because my most expert customers tell me so.
To identify which is which, take a coin, throw it in the air, and see whether the driver who catches it has plain copper or tinned copper on his cars....
He will give you a concise answer, filled with technical proof, and delivered with deep and meaningful nods and winks. Maybe even a knowing grunt.

I actually sell almost even quantities of each, and my customers are divided into three almost equal camps.
Those who swear by one, those who swear by the other, and those who go "pffffffffffffft,  doesn't make a rats #%@* of difference".

I have been unable to determine whether group A, B or C is faster than any of the others.
Still, I only have about 15 years of data, a difference may yet rear it's ugly head

Oh, me ?  I have both in my war chest, actually three, no, 4.
Both types of Slot.it 0.5 soft, and some really thin Sideways copper at about 0.2mm thick
Oh and some stiff ScaleAuto tinned copper 0.3mm that I only use on really heavy vehicles like RAIDS
I am sitting in camp C having a chilled wine with the rat's posteriors.

[Mr Modifier]

The stiff braid that comes with Scalextric and Carrera cars is awful - too stiff and too thick and actually wears more as a result.

Softer braids seem to last better on our club track (technical Sport track with one long straight - 20 metres and 7-9 seconds to lap).

The make of the soft braids seems to be fairly irrelevant.

Tinned copper wears less than pure copper.  Tin is harder but stiffer.  For digital systems that carry the signal through the rails there is a theory that tinned braids carry a cleaner signal because high frequency tends to the outer edge of a wire and coated copper will pit (corrode) and create signal interference.

I can’t confirm or deny that the theory has a real-world impact but I do know that the tinned high thread count braid I ordered is very close to the legendary SCX rally braid and it works very well which is just as well because I bought a huge reel of it!

Those of us who do well at the club use tinned soft braids but then we do all the other tuning stuff that the slower guys don’t.  No way of telling the impact the braids have on their own but every little tweak adds a little margin and all the little margins add up to a tenth or two per lap.

[Johnno]

I hope this is ok to post here as it is braid related, well routing the slot and braid recess at the least. I have the laminate trimmer router below, posted the specs. and I am hoping that this will do the job of routing some modules. I have read that a variable speed, smaller router is the best for the job, I am unsure and am looking for others input.

Other than this I would need to buy a full on plunge router, which most are not variable speed.

 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Makita 18V Cordless Brushless Laminate Trimmer Router Skin #DRT50Z

FEATURES
• On / Off Button with lock prevents accidental start up of the tool during use or transport, protecting the user and the workpiece
• Shaft lock easy installation and removal of trimmer bit with single wrench by pressing the shaft lock
• Soft start minimises start up shock and makes the tool start smoothly for optimum control
• BL Brushless Motor provides more power to the motor whilst increasing run-time and durability
• Variable speed control dial the rotation speed of the tool can be changed from 10,000 – 30,000rpm by turning the speed adjusting dial
• Constant speed control provides constant rotation speed regardless of load conditions
• RT0700C accessories are compatible which include; trimmer base, plunge routing base, tilt base and offset base assembly

SPECIFICATIONS
• Voltage: 18V
• Collet: 6.35mm (1/4”)
• No load speed: 10,000 – 30,000rpm
• Height: 226mm
• Weight 1.4kg

A site for reference: Makita 18v Cordless Brushless Laminate Trimmer Router
(https://etoolshop.com.au/product/makita-...dlx3104tj/)

   
Makita 18V Cordless Brushless Laminate Trimmer Router Skin #DRT50Z

   
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