[Graham]

Mercedes Benz 1950's F1 car
Scratch build, parts are unknown but chassis is similar to a Dynamic brand design, motor is a 5-pole open frame type. Tyres are good for track racing. Windscreen visor missing.

                     

Price is £50 and £3.75 postage in the UK.

BRM F1 car
Revell parts, motor runs but has some corrosion and probably needs replacing, rear tyres have been added for the sale, so would need truing for racing.

                     

Price £50 and £3.75 postage in the UK

There were a couple of others I was going to advertise, but they are not complete and need some substancial work, so I will sell them on ebay.

[autoavia]

The BRM is by Revell and the Mercedes body is likely to be the Merit kit.

[Graham]

The BRM is by Revell and the Mercedes body is likely to be the Merit kit.

Many thanks Tony, I have corrected the advert. Was not sure about the Merc body as I thought Strombecker also made a similar body kit ?
Any ideas of the Merc Chassis, I thought perhaps a Repro copy of the Dynamic chassis ?

[autoavia]

Dynamic chassis seem to vary a bit in their design. I have got 2 or 3 of the tongue section thar carries the guide which are different so it could be a Dynamic chassis. I didn't realise that Strombecker made a Mercedes body but I should think Merit is more likely.
I might be interested in the others depending on what they are. If you wanted to send some photos I can give you my email address. I have quite alot of spare parts and they can always join the queue of projects.
I have always wanted a Cox Cheetah but the only ones on Ebay are usually in the USA and way overpriced with high postage charges but one might turn up one day.

[autoavia]

Dynamic chassis seem to vary a bit in their design. I have got 2 or 3 of the tongue section thar carries the guide which are different so it could be a Dynamic chassis. I didn't realise that Strombecker made a Mercedes body but I should think Merit is more likely.
I might be interested in the others depending on what they are. If you wanted to send some photos I can give you my email address. I have quite alot of spare parts and they can always join the queue of projects.
I have always wanted a Cox Cheetah but the only ones on Ebay are usually in the USA and way overpriced with high postage charges but one might turn up one day.

[Graham]

Dynamic chassis seem to vary a bit in their design. I have got 2 or 3 of the tongue section thar carries the guide which are different so it could be a Dynamic chassis. I didn't realise that Strombecker made a Mercedes body but I should think Merit is more likely.
I might be interested in the others depending on what they are. If you wanted to send some photos I can give you my email address. I have quite alot of spare parts and they can always join the queue of projects.
I have always wanted a Cox Cheetah but the only ones on Ebay are usually in the USA and way overpriced with high postage charges but one might turn up one day.

I have attched close up of the motor on the BRM
   

I am not sure how easy it is to clean the armature on these motors, but I guess if your experienced in taking them apart it maybe not an issue. I would probably be inclined to just get another one from Phil Smith. It does run the car OK, but slower.

[autoavia]

That should clean up ok. It doesn't need to be perfect as long as it can rotate without the corrosion fouling the can. A bit of WD40 on a rag would take most of it off but ideally I would gently lever the tags on the end of the can, remove the endbell and armature so that there is no chance of debris getting in the motor, give the commutator a good clean and check for broken wires on the armature poles.
John Secchi told me you can unwind a broken wire one turn and solder it back on with no effect on the motor or take a turn off every pole and you will gain a bit more revs.

[Graham]

That should clean up ok. It doesn't need to be perfect as long as it can rotate without the corrosion fouling the can. A bit of WD40 on a rag would take most of it off but ideally I would gently lever the tags on the end of the can, remove the endbell and armature so that there is no chance of debris getting in the motor, give the commutator a good clean and check for broken wires on the armature poles.
John Secchi told me you can unwind a broken wire one turn and solder it back on with no effect on the motor or take a turn off every pole and you will gain a bit more revs.

Hi Tony,
my message box was full, so i have cleared some out and sent you new messages