Posts: 1,237
Threads: 142
Likes Received: 1,417 in 630 posts
Likes Given: 745
Joined: Apr 2019
Location Chesterfield, UK
I guess I have. The red LED comes on but goes out when I press the throttle and the car just hums (gently to itself

)
Can it be saved or is it just junk now? (The powerbase - the car's fine.)
Unfortunately despite the piles of track I have it seems I only have (had?) the one analogue powerbase and I'm stuffed until the eBay pair I've ordered arrive.
(This post was last modified: 19th-Oct-23, 08:24 PM by
Top Down.)
•
Posts: 795
Threads: 30
Likes Received: 1,395 in 625 posts
Likes Given: 484
Joined: Apr 2019
Location Auburn, WA, USA
Open it up and take a look. If you can spot the damage, maybe it can be repaired or bypassed.
Or, you know... ditch the toy bits and wire up a proper power supply and controller. ;)
printables.com/@MrFlippant
•
Posts: 2,518
Threads: 117
Likes Received: 2,861 in 1,460 posts
Likes Given: 7,594
Joined: Jan 2020
Location Eastbourne UK
Any chance it might be the controller?
Let's go...OFF ROAD!
•
Posts: 1,237
Threads: 142
Likes Received: 1,417 in 630 posts
Likes Given: 745
Joined: Apr 2019
Location Chesterfield, UK
Stripped it down and nothing obvious. No melted insulation on the wires, all solder joints solid and in tact. None of the electrical 'gubbin's show signs of distress. Tried another controller and the LED reacted to the trigger but still no power at the track.
A couple of C8217's are on their way from eBay.
It's only a temporary floor circuit for car set-up and testing purposes so I don't see the need for moving away from the 'toy bits'. If it was permanent .....
(This post was last modified: 20th-Oct-23, 11:13 AM by
Top Down.)
•
Posts: 1,749
Threads: 260
Likes Received: 1,603 in 814 posts
Likes Given: 1,876
Joined: Apr 2019
Location Edinburgh, Scotland
The LED should on solidly shouldn't it? If it is dimming then yes some component has failed.
Leo
Forum Precepts: Don't hijack or divert topics - create a new one. Don't feed the Troll. http://www.scuderiaturini.com
•
Posts: 1,237
Threads: 142
Likes Received: 1,417 in 630 posts
Likes Given: 745
Joined: Apr 2019
Location Chesterfield, UK
Turns out it was the PSU itself.
First clue was when I came to unplug it. It wasn't connected to the track but was too hot to be comfortably unplugged with bare hands! I had to switch it off at the wall and let it cool down.
Although I didn't have another Scalextric PSU I pirated the track connector, put it on another brand of PSU and I'm up and running again. I'm pleased as I'd not disconnected but had rerouted the wires in the power-base so they were below the slot. (Some deeper guides were snagging on or being halted by it.) I had hoped it wasn't that which was the problem.
Posts: 1,237
Threads: 142
Likes Received: 1,417 in 630 posts
Likes Given: 745
Joined: Apr 2019
Location Chesterfield, UK
Ah. Solved one problem, now I have another.
Terrible radio interference when using the replacement PSU.
•
Posts: 9
Threads: 0
Likes Received: 2 in 2 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Nov 2023
Seems like a power issue. Check connections, look for loose wires, and wait for the new powerbase you've ordered.
•